Idle RPM+AFR Oscillations
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I cannot seem to work out the cause of my RPM and AFR oscillations at idle. The car has a very distinctive 820-920 RPM oscillation with a period of ~4 seconds and AFR fluctuates along with RPM. Using Idle RPM Timing Correction greatly reduces the amplitude of the RPM oscillations but does nothing for AFRs. I have tried controlling every variable I can think of to figure out what is causing this but nothing seems to change it.
The basics:
The only thing that I see closely correlated to the oscillations is my battery voltage which switches between 13.6V and 13.7V. This could just be a direct result of the RPM changes, but my working theory is that the voltage oscillations are causing my deadtimes to change and creating a feedback loop of some kind. I am also growing suspicious of the injector settings from ID -- my VE table is bizarre (very limited range of VE values, odd hotspot at low-load/high-RPM, very high VE at idle, etc). Thoughts? |
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Couple things I see. First off, you have idle VE enabled, so although your main fuel table is locked at 74, the idle ve table is not. Your timing correction is a bit aggressive, and I'm not sure why you're trying to idle at 15.4. I've also found that most BPs are much happier at 950rpm vs. 850, especially with anything but stock engine mounts, which most of us have. EGO will also help regulate AFR, monitor it at idle and make sure it's around 96-98% once warmed up. I've made all these changes and probably some more and attached the tune, try it and see if it helps. I've always used ID's settings without issue,
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Curly, have a cat...
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Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1646810)
Couple things I see. First off, you have idle VE enabled, so although your main fuel table is locked at 74, the idle ve table is not. Your timing correction is a bit aggressive, and I'm not sure why you're trying to idle at 15.4. I've also found that most BPs are much happier at 950rpm vs. 850, especially with anything but stock engine mounts, which most of us have. EGO will also help regulate AFR, monitor it at idle and make sure it's around 96-98% once warmed up. I've made all these changes and probably some more and attached the tune, try it and see if it helps. I've always used ID's settings without issue,
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I don't think it's necessary, no. I've always felt like if the idle table is different than the main fuel table, there's a bump when transitioning in and out of it. And if they're the same, why bother? I feel like I can get EGO working as good as any benefit idle VE can get me.
As you can see from my sig, I've moved to a G4x on my car, but the when I had a MS and on the current MS's I tune at work, I follow the above advise. And the G4x doesn't have any sort of idle VE, fyi. |
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1646827)
As you can see from my sig, I've moved to a G4x on my car, but the when I had a MS and on the current MS's I tune at work, I follow the above advise. And the G4x doesn't have any sort of idle VE, fyi.
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I don't use idle VE, but do use idle Advance. Allows more advance as soon as throttle is pushed off idle.
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Originally Posted by Rrrracer
(Post 1646848)
How do you like the Link? Comparison with MS3?
As an example of the adjustability, I've never liked WUE. It's a blanket percentage that doesn't make sense for all RPMs/load. I use a table in the Link to change my AFR targets, so it's a bit richer around idle (13.5 instead of 14.7) when cold, but I don't want 10.3 instead of 11.5, so in boost, the target doesn't change. See my table below. Again these are only two things I like about the Link, I could probably talk to you about it for a hour, but I'll let OP keep his thread. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...518dec77bc.png And like I said the pinout is crazy helpful. I think everyone on here with a MS has at one time or another wondered if all the unused plugs in the engine bay go to a usable pin on the ECU, and we usually end up doing the PITA solution of routing wires through the firewall to the expansion plug. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1c0c601dad.png |
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