Ignitor get hot Hot HOT
 

Need Help

Installing a megasquirt for the first time. Got a trigger signal set up, injectors set up, but I'm trying to get this ignition figured out. Got a MS2 v3.57 pre-built and a 1990 ignition system, and the ignitor is getting hot when I turn the car on. I have the ignitor wired up to the MS, the coils wired up to the ignitor, and spark plugs are connected to the coils. Tuner studio output is going low. Turn on the car and DAMN that boy gets hot. Gets hot quicker when coils are plugged in, I believe that may be relevant to my issue.

Its to my knowledge and sense that this is goodn't, and it needs to stop.

Followed DIY's guide to set up the spark output for factory ignitor (logic output?) on a v3.57, which basically says wire PAD1 to Q16-2 and PAD3 to (insert spare output of your choice, I chose IAC2B) and youre good! Got DB37-36 to IB1 on ignitor, DB37-31 to IB2, and OC1 and OC2 to the coils.

Would love to get this car running before it gets too cold here in Michigan, and I'm willing to embarrass myself for the sake of learning quickly, so if you have questions, ask away.

Bump, have the exact same issue with the MS3X I'm waiting on a solution for.

Aight so check this out:

I checked the outputs and found DB37-36 is outputting no voltage when the car is on, but -31 is giving 4.96 volts. That's almost a whole 5 volts! Also checked the PAD 2 and 3 and found they both output 5 volts when the ECU is on. I disconnected -31 from the ignitor and now it doesn't get hot anymore, even when the coils are plugged in. I'd say this is problem solved, but I kinda need both of those coils.

It seems as though PAD3 doesn't know its not supposed to give voltage when the MS is on. So riddle me this:

Why?

I'd say you both need to read the megasquirt hardware manual found here: Megasquirt Manual Index - Megasquirt EFI
It would also help if you posted your exact hardware setup and .msq file.

Attachment 227987

Check this setting. If you haven't done anything to invert the mainboard spark outputs and you have 'Spark Output' set to 'Going High' then they will be outputting 5V when commanding the coils off and 0V when on. Either change the setting to 'Going Low' or better, add circuits to both outputs to flip the polarity the correct way so that the output is not 'high' (5V) when flashing firmware.

This only applies to the mainboard 'LED' outputs. When using the 3X board outputs it should be set to 'Going High'.

In my case, I have a MS3X built by Braineack of the forum. I am also using his basemap found on www.trubokitty.com. Firmware is 1.4 I know there is a newer one but the base map he is using is for 1.4. I will upgrade once I have things stable. With the key on, below are my outputs on the 8 pin connector to the ignitor. Clip is on the top of the connector. Trying to find out of they are correct or not.


12V 0v 12V 12V 0V 0V 5V 12V


Thanks

It says the same thing, but it still doesn't explain what to do if one output is correct and another isn't.

.msq:
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...56c978f904.png

Sorry I misread. Can you use the test mode to confirm that the output will not switch to 0V at all?

What about the dwell at 8 and spark duration at 5?

I got to the car today to try output test mode. Nothing changed when testing coil B, but when testing coil A and then going back to testing coil B, output B behaves correctly! I even tested the spark output and both coils work. Independently. I can only get it to do this by first testing A, then testing B though. Turning the car off resets it, and to not get the ignitor to ignite in flames, I have to act quickly after turning it on. Id like to be able to have the vehicle 'key on engine off' without having to do this, though.

Knowing that output B operates after certain procedures, Id like to refine my question: how do I get coil output B to start at 0 volts when I first turn the car on?