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Originally Posted by silverstorm
(Post 1339226)
aidandj, will do for the head gasket, thanks.
MX5RACER, I would love a copy of your tune if you don't mind sharing. And thanks for how you wired in the VVTuner. Which block do you have? Since I'm sticking with the 8.8/9.0 CR pistons in my 94 block I might be a little off on the tune from you but can adjust accordingly. '90 Miata w/NOW '01 VVT engine DIYPNP Megasquirt! - Page 2 - www.MSruns.com |
Just wanted to put an update on this since it's been a long time as well as make a list for myself so I can look at all the work to do.
Current plan: -Pull NA8 engine (probably with transmission since I'm doing clutch and transmission seals as well) -Clean up engine bay and paint it, get rid of unnecessary things like EGR and maybe cruise control -Swap alternator to new engine (96 block, VICS intake manifold, VVT head) -Assemble previously mentioned engine with all new gaskets -Install engine/trans combo -Run new intake (2.5" cowl style) -Figure out what all to change on my DIYPNP to control VICS and communicate with VVTuner -Pray it starts, get it street tuned, drive or tow to Dallas for a real tune Current questions that need more research: -Will the 96 Crank sensor work for VVT control -What settings and jumpers need changing in my DIYPNP for VVT control -Do I need the NB2 trigger wheel and pulley and will I have to modify it for an NA8 block -Should I do any work to the head -How obsessive will I get about cleaning up the engine out of the car -How much time and money am I about to obsess over losing? |
Long time update #2:
Engine bay is painted pearlescent orange (car is same color but gloss) Ditched charcoal/egr and cruise, rerouted some wires for a semi-tuck/push stuff out of the way. 96 block is all sealed up and ready for the head VVT head is getting worked currently (cam seals, mount VICS manifold, coolant reroute, misc...) Trans is pulled, almost ready to be installed to engine when it's all done (have to drill out drain plug, damn short shoulder bolt stripped) Answers to my last posts current questions: -96 crank sensor won't work, swap out an 01+ (99+ might work...) -Don't know about settings/jumpers yet -Must have NB2 trigger wheel (different teeth than 96/97), trigger wheel will fit behind any 96+ accessory crank pulley. 95 down is thicker and doesn't leave room for the timing wheel. -I will not be working the head as I'm bored driving the wife's truck all the time. Any NB head stock outperforms a worked over NA head so it will be an improvement regardless. -I only pressure washed everything (pressure washers are the greatest invention ever), wiped down any areas I was working in (behind crank bolt) after spraying for extra shiny. -NB2 trigger wheel and sensor cost $60, coolant reroute $155, Big box from mazdacomp with all the seals I needed/timing belt/comp motor mounts ~$300 Biggest future holdup is ECU related. Reading up on that during break times. |
Update #3:
Car is in engine, all wiring complete, engine runs well but is idling very rich (11.5ish). This is to be expected since I didn't touch anything in TS except modifying my req fuel for the RX8 425cc injectors. Currently running 94 coil pack until I bother with COPs (still researching Toyota vs LS) Currently running stock intake cross over (haven't pieced together everything for DIY Randall Cowl intake) Currently running stock NA8 header (not spending 400+ for RB, hesitant to purchase a Raceland for clearance issues) Still running batch injection (blech) since I had an issue with one injector constantly firing even with engine off ignition on (could not locate where it was grounding out to or setting issue) No control of VVT or VICS yet, still running off of Cam Angle Sensor I reinstalled from NA8 but sensors in place for Crank and Intake Cam for when I want to get the VVTuner running. Lack of control of both of these should have me about 10-15 hp & tq low over the whole map, but especially in midrange. Plan now is to get the car streetable as is and modify the above as time allows. |
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Wow do we have the same color car? Looks like you did a very good job on it.
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Originally Posted by MX5RACER
(Post 1338942)
You are correct. It is to balance the temps across the cylinders, but in my experience, I have not needed to run a reroute on my track car, even here in S. FL. I will agree that for all out, 100% performance, a reroute will help make a few more HP, but it really complicates everything under the hood and adds failure points, depending on which method you use. I chose to go the simple route with my build and use the '01+ head gasket with the VVT head and skip the reroute. I have hundreds of laps at Homestead and Sebring with zero issues. My set-up is currently running 143whp on 93 octane as well.
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Ditched the floating around NA8 coils in favor of Fab9 Densos. Still have a weird idle stumble right after start for ~30 seconds both hot and cold.
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Long time update:
- T2 Turbo running at 4 psi IWG with a frankensteined taco taco EWG manifold and Flyin Miata upper and lower downpipe. I have a MBC to get up to this turbo's optimal 12 psi once I figure out my VVT issues. - Roll bar painted and installed - Footwell subwoofer box custom made to fit an upward firing 10" and a 4 channel amp rack made and mounted in the trunk. Still to do: - Figure out this damned VVTuner - Figure out the vacuum reservoir for VICS actuation and how to wire the DIYPNP to control it - Figure out A/C idle up and radiator fan on idle up (they draw enough power to stall the engine without an idle up) - Figure out overheating when sitting still. Car didn't do it before turbo so I'm assuming intercooler is blocking flow enough to let it overheat even with fans running like crazy - Get an actual dyno tune - Make a faux glove box behind the now removed passenger airbag cover and mount gauges in there for a cleaner look that doesn't scream break into me and steal stuff |
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Intercooler must not block bumper mouth opening. Air must be able to get over, under, or around it in significant volume.
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Noted. I'll modify mounting to let more airflow directly to radiator. I'm using a pretty large ebay intercooler. Do you think it would be a better idea to get a smaller one or to mount this less in the way?
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@silverstorm @dleavitt
Hoping to revive this a little and get some info. Currently trying to do this same swap. Thank you for the time in researching everything for us. I was wondering if you we’re finally able to have success getting your vvt working and also wondering if you could share how you setup the vvt oil feed line to work with your na block. I know one user mentioned teeing off from the oil pressure sender but still not sure how that’d work with the vvt hardline. |
Hello there thanks for reminding me this post exists! I gave up trying to get VVT to work with the VVTuner as I couldn't ever get it to work right and didn't feel like swapping sensors and/or buying a new VVTuner. I'll sell you mine if you want to go that route ;) . I don't remember exactly how the hardline is routed but I can check later in the day, I do know I used the hardline so it must have either bolted straight in or have been a very simple adapter.
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Long time update:
I had the car dyno tuned by Toby at Advanced Engine Dynamix in SoCal. Thanks to some doofus mistakes on my part (EWG mounted on a flexing bracket) and some excellent tune work by him we got 202 HP, 188 TQ. It's a bit rich for safety and this is definitely at the reliability limit for the injectors and clutch so until one of those breaks I'll be happy at this power level for a long time. This is without control over VVT or VICS so I know I'm losing some low end torque but the car is such a blast I'm not even remotely upset. 10K miles and a year later I now live in Nebraska and the few days this season that have been warm enough for the Miata it still puts a huge smile on my face. I ditched the NB door cards as there were just too many minute fitment issues to be livable for me. They looked so good but it just wasn't worth losing the knee space and seeing little gaps everywhere. The only other thing I've changed in the last year is the valve seals to try to fix an over run oil burn down long hills. It got better but still burns oil when there is high vacuum so I either messed up the job or something else is wrong. It doesn't affect drivability and there aren't a lot of hills here so I live with it for now. |
Thanks for the updates, so hard to find information on a vvt head swap. Honestly this is really the only detailed thread I’ve been able to find so far.
and no thanks on the vvtunner, I kinda jumped into the deep end already and got my car running on an MS3pro in anticipation of my vvt =D. @MX5RACER sent me a few PMs and clarified some info for me. I was under the assumption that the NBs oil pressure sending units location was different than on an NA. I thought the upper bolt on the vvt oil line was just there to secure the oil line to the block and somehow the oil pressure sender threaded through the vvt feed line and into the block. That’s how it looked in pics to me (still kinda a newb). But from my understanding now it seems the oil feeds through that upper bolt and feeds both the vvt oil line and oil pressure sender which simple mounts directly to the vvt oil line. But yes please verify this before I say anything that could be incorrect and send a future builder down a path of headaches. I’d be super appreciative. This is the last piece of the puzzle I was still unsure of. |
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...08796d12f4.jpg
Alright I can confirm at least on a 96 block that there is a port for the VVT line. It does attach via a banjo bolt with copper crush washers that you're supposed to replace every use so order some extras if you plan on moving stuff around (every time you take the valve cover off you need two more) |
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