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I've got some major MS1 HARDWARE issues

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Old 01-02-2011, 06:19 PM
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I measured them at the clip. On prong in each wire. The injectors were unplugged and put the key in I guess it woudl be RUN. Sorry I got ACC and RUN confused. The key was as far into the on position without the engine actually running.


- .00/.01 (fluctuated) injector 1
- 11.56 injector 2
- .01 injector 3
- 11.56 injector 4

Cyl 2 and 4 are the ones that keep flooding.

So it would seem to me that when the key is in RUN, I am measuring both the 12V and the ground wire on the clip and getting almost 12V of power as a reading meaning the circut is grounded. Both cyl 1/3 are not getting any power when it's in RUN meaning those circuts are not being grounded IE not injecting.
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Old 01-02-2011, 06:30 PM
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Which components on this diagram are for injectors 2/4?



I am going to look deeper into it to see if something is grounding inside the box.
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Old 01-02-2011, 06:47 PM
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If your voltmeter can read resistance odds are it can be used to check continuity as well. From the diagram above the signal for the injectors comes out at the end of either q14 or q15. Not sure which is which injectors though. Backtracking the circuit is probably the best thing to do. Take the MS out of the car and check for continuity between the signal outputs and ground. If there is continuity then there is a short on the board somewhere.

When I built my last one I had a solder bridge across q14. It didnt hold the injectors open but held them closed instead. Still may be related though.
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Old 01-02-2011, 06:51 PM
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I have the board sitting in front of me right now. So I should figure out what pin on the output is injector 2/4 and do what with it? Sorry man, I hate to sound so incompetent but I'm pretty lost. My meter can check continuity, but I'm at a loss to how I do that here? Touch one mutimeter pin to the ouput of the board and the other to where the circut starts (Q14/Q15)? And see if it completes a circut?
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Old 01-02-2011, 06:53 PM
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FML I wish I actually knew anything about electronics.
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Old 01-02-2011, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by falcon
I measured them at the clip. On prong in each wire. The injectors were unplugged and put the key in I guess it woudl be RUN. Sorry I got ACC and RUN confused. The key was as far into the on position without the engine actually running.

- .00/.01 (fluctuated) injector 1
- 11.56 injector 2
- .01 injector 3
- 11.56 injector 4
All 4 injectors should have ~12V on one clip and 0V at the other. So you have one issue there. The 12V does not come from the MS, it comes from the fuse box. So you need to figure out what's wrong there as a first step...
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Old 01-02-2011, 07:06 PM
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Ok so I'm playing around with it here, touching one tip to the pin and the other to the spots you said and I'm not getting anything. No reading.
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Old 01-02-2011, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by falcon
Which components on this diagram are for injectors 2/4?



I am going to look deeper into it to see if something is grounding inside the box.
Q5, Q11, Q12, R38 D7, D20, Q15, Q13, R33, R20, R36, R34, R35.

But first fix your 0V at cyls 1/3 issue. You may find that ALL of your cylinders flood as well.
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Old 01-02-2011, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Reverant
All 4 injectors should have ~12V on one clip and 0V at the other. So you have one issue there. The 12V does not come from the MS, it comes from the fuse box. So you need to figure out what's wrong there as a first step...
You mis-understood.

I tested each clip to see if they are grounding or "completing the circut" and two of them are.

All four injectors are getting 12V from the white/red wire.
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Old 01-02-2011, 07:09 PM
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So were you measuring voltage or resistance? One probe in the injector clip, the other one?
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Old 01-02-2011, 07:10 PM
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I found something with the continuity.

I am getting a reading from the pin out for inj 2/4 and the center pin on Q3
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Old 01-02-2011, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Reverant
So were you measuring voltage or resistance? One probe in the injector clip, the other one?
I measured both. I checked for 12V on the red/white wire by one probe in the clip and the other to a chassis ground. All good.

And I checked with both probes in the clip. And that's where i found that 2/4 were both being grounded somewhere.
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Old 01-02-2011, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by falcon
I measured both. I checked for 12V on the red/white wire by one probe in the clip and the other to a chassis ground. All good.

And I checked with both probes in the clip. And that's where i found that 2/4 were both being grounded somewhere.
So on 2/4, on the pin that does NOT have the 12V, you can measure 0.1Ohms from the pin to the chassis?
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Old 01-02-2011, 07:19 PM
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No, sorry I didn't test that. I only tested the 12V to the chassis ground.

I can go do that though... I just have to pop the MS back in . Give me a few min.
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Old 01-02-2011, 07:35 PM
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I just checked again to be sure. With the ignition OFF, I get zero readings on all four clips on the ground wire to the chassis.

With the key in ON, I get -.19 on clips 2/4 and zero reading on clips 1/3.

So that would make me belive that the grounding issue is not in the chassis wiring or it would give me a reading regardless if the the car was set to ON or OFF? Since it only gives me a continuity reading when the key is ON, that means it's something inside the box? Am I right in thinking this? Also, if the grounding issue was in the wiring, then the injector would be completing a circut even without the MS box in the car when the key is in ON? Since it dosen't do that, again... makes me belive the problem is in the box not the wiring.

I got a reading from Q3 to injector 2/4 pins on my board while checking continuity. No other pins gave a reading except the middle one on Q3.
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Old 01-02-2011, 08:35 PM
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I just got another reading on D5.
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Old 01-02-2011, 09:04 PM
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If you can still make it down tonight i'll just send you home with my megasquirt. I can figure out what, if anything, is wrong with yours tomorrow.
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Old 01-02-2011, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by falcon
.........
Is this a bump or your version of deleting a post? Either way I'm deleting them.

If it's a bump, you need to chill the **** out. Hell, either way you need to chill the **** out. Make sure you know what you're talking about before posting. You have the equivalent of about 60 years electronic experience between JP, Reverent, and others that are chiming in, and they're having difficulties understanding you. Don't waste their time or patients, you can't afford it.

Put your MS in Anton's car, my bet is his car will run fine. Because if I have this right, your car ran fine until you did a wire tuck, and now you're blaming the MS.
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Old 01-02-2011, 09:47 PM
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Nope. It did this back in the summer. The car ran fine 3 days ago when I finished tge tuck. It was only when I touched tge ms that this happened again. Same as in tge summer when this happened last. And yes they were edits.
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Old 01-03-2011, 03:34 AM
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I don't see R32 and R36 installed on your board. Comments?
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