What a mess, and by mess I mean fun
#1
Boost Czar
Thread Starter
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,493
Total Cats: 4,080
What a mess, and by mess I mean fun
Finally finished my EBC and KnocksenseMS wiring.
I'm waiting to hear from innovative about the status of my LC-1, and want to wait for it to come back before I bolt it all back up (I'm rewiring it)
but anyways here's how mine looks right now.
mess of wires:
knocksense unit:
LED (lights with knock events):
Boost solenoid:
I'm waiting to hear from innovative about the status of my LC-1, and want to wait for it to come back before I bolt it all back up (I'm rewiring it)
but anyways here's how mine looks right now.
mess of wires:
knocksense unit:
LED (lights with knock events):
Boost solenoid:
#4
can you go a little bit more in depth about this knocksense. What sensor did you use and where did you place it?
My GTX motor came with a knock sensor and a control box (probably just a filter) and I'm curious if I can use those or if I have to use something that has an existing tested calibration.
EDIT: Nevermind, I found the website, but I do still like to know where you connected the sensor.
My GTX motor came with a knock sensor and a control box (probably just a filter) and I'm curious if I can use those or if I have to use something that has an existing tested calibration.
EDIT: Nevermind, I found the website, but I do still like to know where you connected the sensor.
#9
Boost Czar
Thread Starter
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,493
Total Cats: 4,080
it appears to be....
on mounting:
on mounting:
Originally Posted by m2cupcar
I recommend mounting the knock sensor near or at the FM stock location at the motor mount boss. Most recommendations are below crank centerline and away from the font of the engine (pulleys/bearing noise). I've hand mine mounted in four different locations and the noise was definitely worst at the front and top part of the engine. It's now in a motor mount boss and provides good feedback.
#14
Boost Czar
Thread Starter
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,493
Total Cats: 4,080
im not, scred in stud, then torque a nut down on the flange....then the sensor, then the second nut, and one lock nut for good measure. I suspect the JB Weld might filter out some noise/knock and get bad readings...
#18
Elite Member
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Concord, North Carolina
Posts: 4,160
Total Cats: 6
I gotta get on my wiring...that **** scares the hell out of me though :(
However, I did get my clutch done without knowing what I was doing, and I've done a LOT of research into megasquirt...so maybe this wont be as bad as I think.
However, I did get my clutch done without knowing what I was doing, and I've done a LOT of research into megasquirt...so maybe this wont be as bad as I think.
#19
Elite Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Warrington/Birmingham
Posts: 2,642
Total Cats: 42
And who the chuff apart from me is going to see it? (granted a few people as I've photo'd and and posted it on a forum but you get my point)
Anyway I've not JBwelded it to the block, I've used JBweld to attach a bolt onto the block and the knock sensor is sitting on that bolts thread and torqued down with a nut and washer at both ends.
I don't see how the JBweld will filter anything out considering how hard it becomes once it's cured.
Some people need to get in the DIY spirit considering they're all using a DIY ECU
Anyway I've not JBwelded it to the block, I've used JBweld to attach a bolt onto the block and the knock sensor is sitting on that bolts thread and torqued down with a nut and washer at both ends.
I don't see how the JBweld will filter anything out considering how hard it becomes once it's cured.
Some people need to get in the DIY spirit considering they're all using a DIY ECU