Just another 91 Miata VVT swap no-start
3 Attachment(s)
Hey guys,
So here's the background: -91 Miata w/ 2003 1.8L VVT with 39,000 miles. -MS3X -Currently has oldish E85 in the tank -FF640cc injectors converted to sequential injection. -Using 99-05 Miata OEM trigger wheel (FM 36-2 in the mail) -RB Headers -Using 91 Coils and wires -Followed the VVT swap guide As for the problems, the car will crank but won't start. I have attached both regular and composite logs as well as my tune. Basically the car will crank, kind of fire, and not catch. After a while it smells like fuel. I feel absolutely defeated. This thing is kicking my ass. Any ideas? https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e8e505bf33.png |
losing sync, Reason 31
31 = Miata 99-00 - 2 cams not seen |
Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit
(Post 1453121)
losing sync, Reason 31
31 = Miata 99-00 - 2 cams not seen |
settings didnt have anything that jumped out at me. suspect sensor and or any modified wiring associated. report back
|
When I got stuck where you are, it was because I had the fuel lines backwards.
|
flip your polarity to falling edge on your tune. you have a perfect signal, but your tune is still set for raising edge.
happy Thanksgiving. you're welcome. |
Thanks guys. Hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving.
So here's what I did: -Set tune to falling edge. -Tune still set to going high instead of going low. I'll post a picture of the fuel lines but I'm 90% sure it's right. When I swap them, the fuel pump makes a different (weirdish) noise. Below is a picture. Red is connected to red, blue is connected to blue. To do today: -Test all grounds -Now that I have another helper, I'll go through the ECU and test all my wiring. -Install 36-2 wheel -Potentially empty E85 and put in new 93 octane and adjust tune. Will keep you guys updated. If that doesn't do it, could it be a cranking pulsewidth issue? Keep in mind the car is cold. Colder than it's ever been ~35 degrees F. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...453961ccd4.jpg |
and post another composite log.
Not to be rude here, but when I step into a job to take over and all the wires are the same color....First thing I do is re-wire with colors. I just assume the wiring is fucked up if they couldn't use different wires per circuit. You can ebay high quality wire in a color assortment for really cheap. |
Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit
(Post 1453299)
and post another composite log.
Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit
(Post 1453299)
Not to be rude here, but when I step into a job to take over and all the wires are the same color....First thing I do is re-wire with colors. I just assume the wiring is fucked up if they couldn't use different wires per circuit.
You can ebay high quality wire in a color assortment for really cheap. |
2 Attachment(s)
|
I had a similar problem on my engine where it would crank but not start. I reloaded the basemap from DIYautotune and scaled the VE table by 1.5 and was able to get the car to start. Long story short, it ran like crap and the cause was the car's timing belt being way off. The belt wasn't aligned at TDC on the crank and the intake cam was 1 tooth off.
|
Okay, testing spark plugs. All 4 plugs are getting spark.
-Pulled a plug after crank and it's pretty dry. I suspect it's a fueling issue. Can anyone smarter than me confirm the fuel line orientation as seen above? Is the fuel regulator upside-down?
Originally Posted by Docterhow
(Post 1453302)
I had a similar problem on my engine where it would crank but not start. I reloaded the basemap from DIYautotune and scaled the VE table by 1.5 and was able to get the car to start. Long story short, it ran like crap and the cause was the car's timing belt being way off. The belt wasn't aligned at TDC on the crank and the intake cam was 1 tooth off.
|
Anddddddddd we're good!
A combination of checking grounds and flipping the polarity fixed it. Car fires right up and idles great. (A bit rich). I owe you guys a beer if I ever see you in person. |
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:27 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands