Just got the parts for a MS3X
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Per the title, just got the parts to do a MS3X via the trubokitty instructions...
Picking up a set of ITB's this weekend with a plenum, planning on getting that all hooked up and then deciding if I want to turbo them or build a high comp NA; will keep this updated as I go along... Are there any small "things" I should know about doing a MS3X to my NB1 platform? I think that I will want to go VVT later on, not sure how difficult that is - I was just going to solder the resistor in place on the back and leave it there until I get a new head, but, I'm unsure how that would work with the NB1 ECU connection... |
The MS3X shouldn't care if nothing is wired up to its VVT pin.
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Originally Posted by ByteVenom
(Post 1441166)
The MS3X shouldn't care if nothing is wired up to its VVT pin.
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Originally Posted by 503
(Post 1441170)
I was more curious how that would work into the NB1 vs NB2 ECU connection, as I was under the impression that the plugs and actual wiring on the car side were different
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Makes sense
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Originally Posted by 503
(Post 1441170)
I was more curious how that would work into the NB1 vs NB2 ECU connection, as I was under the impression that the plugs and actual wiring on the car side were different
this will help you: http://www.mellens.net/mazda/mazda_m...999_wiring.pdf |
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 1441177)
wire VVT to a spare unsued pin in the engine bay. Connect your vvt solenoid there later. Like the EGR BOOST solenoid valve, or Purge Canister Valve or something. You can use those same connectors to give your vvt solenoid power as well...
this will help you: http://www.mellens.net/mazda/mazda_m...999_wiring.pdf I could just buy a random 4 pin automotive connector as well. Is the 12V that goes to the EGR from the ECU, or otherwise supplied? |
see the connector witch hunt thread?
almost all power in the engine bay is running off the same white/red wire... |
just finished putting it together and wiring up the harness, have it powered off the car and I'm flashing it right now... Going to try and get it running with the stock intake tomorrow, then when my TPS & filters come on Friday, drop in the AE101 ITB's with the T3 manifold & stacks.
Thanks for the walkthrough on trubokitty :) |
Fuel pump primes, engine cranks, all sparks tested to be good.
Only issue is, I'm not seeing any RPM when cranking! I have the jumpers per your instructions, and I have triple checked the three trimpots and even messed around with the 7.5 turn one a bit... However - I just noticed, https://trubokitty.com/assets/images/ms3x_expander.png shows a ground connection from X - 32 to the main 37 pin d sub connector. I didn't do that - I'm assuming that that would cause this issue? Can anyone explain what is meant by this, hopefully with a picture? Thanks much! |
do a composite log so we can see if it's the crank or cam sensor that's not inputting. (diagnostics tab, save to file, crank for a good 15-20 sec to get a reading, go WOT when you crank so no fuel is injected)
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Odd! After cranking it for 15-20 seconds, I did get a very short signal...
I'm thinking this means its probably the VR trimpots? Is there a better way to do it than counting turns? The "clutch" on these don't click so I don't know when it is all the way left, I've just been spinning it a ton, getting it vertically aligned and counting half turns... I was seeing that another way is to adjust for minimal voltage off of the top end (one facing the center of the board) of R54 next to the trimpot, using some kind of a ground as the negative. Is that true? |
looks like you were getting the cam signal, but not the crank (I had to look at the log in excel here).
For NBs, I tend to just spin the R56 exactly 8 turns CW (resets at 12 turns CCW). and R11 4 turns CW, with R32 backed out completely (at least 6 full turns CCW). Whenever I'd try setting these with specific voltages, I kept getting reports of issues. However - I just noticed, https://trubokitty.com/assets/images/ms3x_expander.png shows a ground connection from X - 32 to the main 37 pin d sub connector. |
Ok - so this is likely a trimpot issue then? Any particular solder or harness connections I should check? I tested for closed on each harness cable and it was fine, but I don't know if a weak signal could cause it too.
Thanks Braineack, Ill check trimpots again when I get home |
I've adjusted the trimpots multiple times now, going up and down inbetween cranks checking for RPM... Nothing - is there anything else I can check for this?
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pics of board? triple check harness.
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Ill take picture of board when I get home and check harness for continuity again... All traces and pads are good, I believe I have all components in place
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Every harness connection tested good... The vrout, vrin, tsel and tachsel are jumped on the bottom. Here are some pictures... Going back through everything right now.
Jumper 7 on the expansion board should be removed, right? https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...74cb828e4c.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...89ed29adaa.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2a253a3ef6.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8f88709c77.jpg |
the 1k resistor on r13. you need to cut it out from the hole and it needs to only connect down to the other resistor you have it bridged with.
the hole on the far side of that image is 5v. the resistor below is part of the crank signal input circuit. we just use that for a 5v pullup, to power the signal, through that 1k resistor. youre also missing c31. everything else seems good. the harness appears to have everything in the right spot. edit; looking again it seems the pullup is okay? |
The pullup is just going from the left side of r13 down to the right pad of the resistor below it... I moved it on to the pad instead of the resistor leg - didnt notice c31, hoping that makes a difference. Resoldering the vr jumpers on the bottom too
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Resoldered the two jumpers and c31, nothing... Which position does jumper 7 on the expansion board need to be in? And can I follow the megasquirt VR testing guide with voltages on your build? Or will it not work to test that way
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I also just found out, whenever I flash the firmware, the "room" fuse burns out in my car, for the radio/lights/beeping... Anyone have any ideas behind the correlation?
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Well, spent the morning troubleshooting more... Went through the entire VR circuit to test for continuity, found everything was connected except for pin 5 from U7 to the top of R55 - R55 was connected to ground on the bottom... I bridged the #5 pin to the top of R55, and then tested voltage on R54 while I turned R56 to get it to 2.25v, then went up incremently all the way to 3v while cranking it over.
Anyone have any other ideas as to what in the world I'm doing wrong here? Starting to get to the point of me pulling my hair out... https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5db9ad8be9.png |
I think you have two separate issues. I am assuming you have a 1996-1997 chassis. The Crank in (Main-24 to 4F) and Cam in (MS3X-24 to 4G) inputs may not be coming in. I had the VR voltage in the initial setting and the car still started, meaning i never adjusted the pot from when i installed them. unless the voltage is over 1 volt over or under it should still start. I tweeked in the voltage later on when i got my multimeter back. Once you get a solid crank and cam signal you should be golden. This is assuming you have all the outputs wired correctly. I had a few issues with that when i went sequential spark and injection with a few injection connection out of order, but again the car still ran (suprisingly OK) lol.
Not sure what the jumper MS3X-7 you have installed is for, it is a injector output. This may be you backfeed that is blowing your fuse if turned on in the software. Where does the other end land on? im just curious. |
It is a NB1 (99-00) chassis; the expansion board has jumpers on it, with J7 being one of the ones pertinent to the circuit for ignition.
I just followed https://trubokitty.com/#/ms3xassembly - I also am getting a cam signal, but... It's not useful without RPM, lol |
Originally Posted by 503
(Post 1443485)
Fuel pump primes, engine cranks, all sparks tested to be good.
Only issue is, I'm not seeing any RPM when cranking! I have the jumpers per your instructions, and I have triple checked the three trimpots and even messed around with the 7.5 turn one a bit... However - I just noticed, https://trubokitty.com/assets/images/ms3x_expander.png shows a ground connection from X - 32 to the main 37 pin d sub connector. I didn't do that - I'm assuming that that would cause this issue? Can anyone explain what is meant by this, hopefully with a picture? Thanks much! |
are you sure youre using an 100k on r52, not a 1k or 10k?
that composite shows youre not getting crank, so it's the mainboard input like ef2 is saying. so either we didn't adjust the pot on r56 enough, or maybe the harness pins are incorrect, on the db37 itself or the ecu side of thing? |
I'll check the hysteresis filter resistor and the other jumps, but I've double checked the vrin and vrout and harness continuity... Maybe I'll check the db pin soldering, too... Have been pretty busy with work so I haven't had much time to mess with it unfortunately
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