Kinda Figured Out Look at my Tune
 

Okay, Like I've said in my other post I will get this Dyno tuned but its a few weeks out ,anywhere here in Vancouver. Please look at my tune so I can sleep at night. If some of the senior members want to take a peak I will transfer some bucks to look over my home work. My 7 psi pulley has just cleared customs so let me know. I tried to recruit a remote tuner on mega squirt forums but no one was interested. Also you can roast me Im a noob, just don't want to blow up my daily driver. Im a Vet who is about to go back school and walking sucks...lol
Just incase anyone asks I have the car idling a bit rich the supercharger just likes it.
Cheers.

Pat.

So I had a huge issue with my closed loop idle, so I went in and played with this map, which if I'm not mistaken is to step up the Idle control valve. So because my m45 is hot side and my IAC is on the dummy throttle body and runs through a check valve and long hose I figured this would give it a head start to activate when it goes into idle. So please school me if Im wrong, but this seemed to have completely solved my stalling out issue, I may have the values a bit high currently but I will adjust them. When I come up to a traffic light or stop sign the idle will now drop to 1100 and settle in just under 1000. If anyone can shed light on it Im all ears.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...930156194a.png

That sets what duty cycle your idle valve goes to when it first returns to idle. So yes, if your idle droops, these numbers probably need to go up. However your idle valve probably doesn’t work below ~15%, and usually these values need to go up for cooler temps, and up for higher RPMs. Your table appears to do the opposite.


send me a PM, we can arrange a time to remote tune if you’re still interested

So it should more like this?

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...cb8bd46e0f.png

Top left should be your lowest number, bottom right should be your highest, but your results may vary. For instance, I’ve found at a certain, usually around 200, engines tend to want a little more IAC instead of less. Since we only have 5 rows, you can probably get rid of the 20 degree row and add a 200 if you find it to need more.

you can take 5 cooler days (ambient around 50) set your entire CL target to the RPM in the columns, start a log, and let the car idle until warm. Look at your log, and set the initial values to what the PWM idle was at for the set temps.

Thoughts on using air temps instead of coolant temps?

I find the iac valve much more reactive to change in intake temps than when configured to CLT.
And my minimum valve duty is set at 28%.