kingofl33t on ebay!
 

Check it out!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Stand...42831429QQrdZ1

One day...:bowdown:

i saw it. I'm thinking about going that route since I'm a retard, but I sure can use a computer.

I may go MS before going turbo. That might save some time later, as the eventual plan is to MS it anyway. I could be playing around with NA tuning while accumulating turbo bits. Hmmm...I might like that...

Exactly my thinking and am SOOOOOO glad I did it this way.

sucks i'm already setup with my emanage. I would love a sweet megasquirt setup. big injectors, no afm, ebc, and so much more

how is megasquirt tuned?

There were many times when I wished I hadnt gone MS, but now that kingof is offering this, it has taken 90% of the headaches out of MS on Miata. For someone just starting a setup, its really a no brainer.

You found me :)

So kingofl337, how do we avoid epay and deal direct with you?

Thanks

Ron

So when are you doing your '99? Is it a future project to offer this for NBs?

Thanks,
Frank

good question :)

Well, I need to see what it goes for. I'm trying to see what a fair price of a complete unit is worth. I figure ebay would be a good form of market research. If it sells for 450.00 I don't plan on offering it as a complete unit like this again. If it does 550.00 or better I'll probably start offering a complete kit. At 450.00 I barely cover my expenses for the MS, AIT sensor,
tubing, and wire.

If it does end up at 450.00 I'll probably just keep with you buy everything send me your MS and ECU and for 120.00/140.00 I'll do the mods.

99's are coming soon I just need some free time. I really don't like adding the 90-97 CAS. I'm going to get some help from a EE and see if we can make a
conditioning circuit so I can fire off the stock sensors.

So this is a full standalone unit that can control everything? I'm not big on MS, I just know a friend of mine suggested I look into it..

Everything

nice...let us know how the ebay sale goes and what you price them at...this is really cool.

interested.....

If it uses the stock ECU to handle idle, do large injectors, say 550+ cause a problem with the control?

Thanks,
Frank

The MS will handle pretty much anyinjectors as long as they are high imp or your run resistors. The stock wiring has trouble with low-z injectors without resistors.

The reason you usually have trouble with a piggy back is they can't adjust the quanity of fuel at idle. It doesn't have anything to do with the ilde control valve.

I thought it was the stock injector drivers on the ECU that required high imp injectors. The hydra is plug and play, can run low z injectors and uses the stock wiring for injectors doesn't it? I haven't read the installation instructions for the hydra to be honest.

Frank

Please excuse my stupidititty, but to get this straight in my feable mind, this takes the place of an FMU, bipes, o2 clamp, and afm?

Also, do I also need a map sensor or is this built in?

Will it work with stock 1.6 injectors or should I not bother and go right to the 1.8s? (I only plan to run 8or 9 psi when I get my intercooler going)

it's a ecu replacement to control your fuel maps and spark.

so yes:

do I need a MAP sensor?

How much is a wideband o2?

pretty sure it's an onboard map sensor.

around $180-190 shipped. LC-1

Thanks!
LC-1 is the type that I want?

lc1 is a model of the brand innovative. Its one of the better/best wb's out there.

Thats all correct braineack, e-mange, AFC, bibes, 02 clamp, powercard, these are all hacks to attempt to make the oem ECU run correctly under boost. The megasquirt needs only air, coolant, map (built in), and RPM. After that you are ready to go. A wideband is recommended for tuning as the stock 02 is the sux.

I'm not real happy with the price of what the MS sold for on ebay. But, we will see what you guys think. The link ecu from FM is $1600.00 and its no nearly as open. I'm going to sell the MS upgrade kit for 550.00 of a complete kit.

If you would wrather build you own MS I'll do the mods for 120.00 w/o switchs and $140.00 with.

Can the LC1 be used in place of the O2 sensor?

Is there a way to use a MAF instead of the MAP, or both?

Do I need a real TPS instead of a switch at the TB?

Can I use something along the lines of an MSD box (Dis-2) and better coils with this setup? EDIS coil pack or a pair of GM wasted spark coils.

If I was to buy one of these for my NA to taylor the fuel and timing, can I switch to FI at a later date, then just use a different map or reprogram?

Is there a problem if I switch to a 99-00 1.8 at a later date?

If these extras or updates cost more, give me an idea of the costs involved.

I thought hard about biding the $550 you wanted on the epay unit, but wanted to persue some options first.

Thanks

Ron

So your going to sell the whole kit for 550? what else would I need...just a wide band O2?

I'm really dumb with this stuff, but how is it tuned? I assume it has a USB hookup or something similar???

Do you need special software to tune it, or is that open source as well?

I can't answer all your questions because I dont know the answers. The LC1 can output a narrowband signal it derives from the wideband sensor. So it can replace the stock narrowband sensor.

I know of no reason why you would want to use an AFM or MAF over a MAP sensor. A MAP does not impede the incoming airflow at all, so it is the optimal setup.
The MS is tuned through a serial cable. All tunning software for it is free and I assume it is all also opensource.


Brian

Put a vacume guage on the intake (NA) and see what it reads at idle and then, WOT under power, driving.

The reason the manufacturers switched from MAP to MAF is realy not because it is cheaper.

A MAF of sufficient size wont impeade flow either, but it will allow the ECM to calibrate fuel better. MAP is fine at cruise, but WOT is where a MAF shines.

That is the reason I would like to use MAF. I can certainly see the need for map to control timing under boost tho. Both would be interesting, but I have a feeling that is not an option. A boost pressure timing retard can be added with the DIS-2. It also has rev limiters and iirc rpm retard as well.


Ron

The $550 for a complete kit seems like a fair price. This would include the IAT sensor, vacuum tubing, wiring and board-setup for the Miata-specific app.? Forgive me for not going back and re-reading all the posts in the Megasquirt sub-forum, but what modifications need to be done to the stock ECU board/case?

Also, would you elaborate on what you mean by the $120 w/o switches and $140 w/ part?

Thanks, and good work!

King put switches in mine to go back and forth between stock ECU and Megasquirt ECU.

Let me just tell you these switches are worth their weight in gold. Its been nice to have for troubleshooting (I had an issue with my MS freaking out due to not following the directions to CLEAN the board).

Can the LC1 be used in place of the O2 sensor?
-Yes


Is there a way to use a MAF instead of the MAP, or both?
You can leave the MAF hooked up but the MS doesn't use it.
Do I need a real TPS instead of a switch at the TB?
-No I use RPM Accel on 90-93.


Can I use something along the lines of an MSD box (Dis-2) and better coils with this setup? EDIS coil pack or a pair of GM wasted spark coils.
-You can use better coils I like the 2nd gen DSM.

If I was to buy one of these for my NA to taylor the fuel and timing, can I switch to FI at a later date, then just use a different map or reprogram?
-Exactly

Is there a problem if I switch to a 99-00 1.8 at a later date?
-Nope, as long as you use the 90-93 electronics.

If these extras or updates cost more, give me an idea of the costs involved.
-None

I thought hard about biding the $550 you wanted on the epay unit, but wanted to persue some options first.

Thanks

Ron

Where is the best place to buy the LC-1? In best, I mean cheapest.

The $550 for a complete kit seems like a fair price. This would include the IAT sensor, vacuum tubing, wiring and board-setup for the Miata-specific app.? Forgive me for not going back and re-reading all the posts in the Megasquirt sub-forum, but what modifications need to be done to the stock ECU board/case?

This includes everything you need to install a miata specific megasquirt. I dub
Miatasquirt.


Also, would you elaborate on what you mean by the $120 w/o switches and $140 w/ part?

This option allows you to build your own MS and I will just do the mods to the MS and your OEM ECU. This does not include tubing, IAT, ect. You would purchase these seperately.

They hover around 180.00-200.00 for the money DIY has the best support.

How exactly do I hook up the fuel pump and the IAT? (Does the IAT need to be welded on the intake?)

If I get some time, I would like to prep the car so I can just plug it in when I get it.

The best way to install the AIT is to tap the intake manifold 3/8 NTP. If not you can JB weld it into the intake piping. The fuel pump wires to the Diagnostic connector. I'll have instructions and a picture.

When will 99/00 units be available? And to make sure i understand, we send you back our stock ECU after you send us the modded components?

Also, I assume when switched back to stock ecu all OBDII functionality is maintained?

Is it safe to assume there is no safe way to tap the IM with it wtill on the car? If there is do you mind sharing it with me?

Um, if you pulled the TB off drilled near it and ran vacume under the spot you were drilling that would be fine.

I received my MS setup from kingof1337 today. It looks OEM. He did an incredible job, really quality work. This setup seems like a no brainer for the 1.6 at $550. I'm not sure how long its going to take until it is fully operational, with the snow on its way, but I am pretty geeked. I will post the results at the dyno eventually and then next summer at the dragstrip.

Got pics?

I will try and remember to post some tomorrow. Good idea.

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...y/DSC00801.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...y/DSC00798.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...y/DSC00803.jpg

Hopefully I'm not beating a dead horse but can you build me a miatasquirt for a '95?

Kingof1337 actually needs a 1.8 car to build a prototype. Just PM him and then ship it out!

Thanks for the pics, looks tidy!

so is this setup as a parallel? cause if it is and I can maintain my obdII on the '97 I'll gladly provide an ecu for prototyping asap after I get a job (hopefully january).

which version of ms are you using? low imp injectors shouldn't be a problem with the newer boards i believe, but with the v2.2, you need a flyback board.

I think everyone is using the V3 board.

PM sent, no response yet. I hope he builds a 1.8 miatasquirt soon, I'd love to have one.

He is out of town sometimes, just be patient. He always kept me updated on the progress.

I would like to thank Rotaryjunk for the great pictures and everyone for their support! I'm glad everyone likes my work and thats the main reason why I do it. I think the MS is a great ECU and really like how its extremely flexible it is and makes the Miata purr like a kitten.

I would love to do a 94-95 & 96-97 I just need a ecu to do it.
It may require more then one shot but should go. Also, the 94-95 are different ecu's then 96-97. The MS should pass ODB-II checks. I also have circuit that should keep from frying coils when the ECU is being flashed or the car with the ignition on for long periods.

Amazing work...I am installing my base greddy kit on thursday, and I have been debating on which direction to go with my fuel/spark management.

You have made it a very easy decision :bigtu:

1st water methanol... then miatasquirt w/dsm injectors that my buddy has sitiing in his toolbox. I'm gonna fry my clutch and rear end sooo fast :ugh2:

seems like switching the spark control back to the stock ecu would prevent the coil fry problem easy enough. I'll be in touch as soon as I've got a job to help you out on the '96-97 stuff.