Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe Perez (Post 188248)

I'm definitely gonna copy your idea- that's very clean.

Please do. That's why I post them - hope everyone can benefit.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe Perez (Post 188248)

I've been noodling around with a printed copy of the schematic and a pencil for weeks now. Getting very familiar with it.

Isn't it shocking how simple it is when you start actually disecting it into elements?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe Perez (Post 188248)

R37 and R38 are just resistors, and they're non-polarized....
It's a really clever design.

Yeah - it's nice to have another pair of eyes look at it and say the same thing. I guess three sets have, there's also the designer, who also thought it would work. :-)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe Perez (Post 188248)

So when note 1 says you can "Remove and Jumper" R37 and R38, they mean just that. If you need to free up some space on the heatsink, you can remove the resistors....

I just can't see them getting hot, and if they do, ok, they *eventually* may die. But I have my doubts. I think I'll stick them on the back where there's loads of room. Just with I went with my guts before I broke one.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe Perez (Post 188248)

I'm going to leave those in place, and instead remove Q9 and Q12. Those are the PWM damping circuit, and I don't plan to run PWM injection control since I already have hi-z injectors and I intend to run HR code which doesn't support injector PWM.

You know, the worst thing you have to lose is a transistor. Set you back like, $4? Hardly worth putting the resistors in. Think of the grams you could save.
And, when you step up to the Man Leagues and get a MS-II, you'll want peak-and-hold to drive the 800cc injectors you'll have to run to maintain the 9,000 hp all MS-II cars make.

Yep, it's time for a post-thursday :beer:.