M.S Virgin modifying a 2nd hand MS 1v3
10-22-2008, 08:14 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 248
Total Cats: 3
M.S Virgin modifying a 2nd hand MS 1v3
I have been converted!!!
After lurking for 3-4months and a series of dumb@ss noob questions I've decided M.S is best.
The Scenario:
I have bought a MS1v3 here in NZ that has the following options added
"4 ingiters and spark outputs
fan control
boost control with two switchable boost tables.
water injection ouput
idle control valve output
Have a loom wired up to the plug already to make splicing it into something easy."
It has been setup for an EJ20T Subaru.
Q.1 Should I go all the way through the megamanual and attempt to resolder/ desolder anything different, or is there another easier way to get the M.S setup for a 1991 B6ZE???
Q.2 I was thinking all I need now from autotune to complete the installation is:
Boost solenoid
LC1
IAT Gm sensor
Then i'm set right?? havn't forgotten anything??
P.s am going diy acoustic earmuffs for the knocksenser and don't see sense in getting a stim since 90% of the work has been done and guaranteed by a pro.
After lurking for 3-4months and a series of dumb@ss noob questions I've decided M.S is best.
The Scenario:
I have bought a MS1v3 here in NZ that has the following options added
"4 ingiters and spark outputs
fan control
boost control with two switchable boost tables.
water injection ouput
idle control valve output
Have a loom wired up to the plug already to make splicing it into something easy."
It has been setup for an EJ20T Subaru.
Q.1 Should I go all the way through the megamanual and attempt to resolder/ desolder anything different, or is there another easier way to get the M.S setup for a 1991 B6ZE???
Q.2 I was thinking all I need now from autotune to complete the installation is:
Boost solenoid
LC1
IAT Gm sensor
Then i'm set right?? havn't forgotten anything??
P.s am going diy acoustic earmuffs for the knocksenser and don't see sense in getting a stim since 90% of the work has been done and guaranteed by a pro.
Reply
0
0
10-23-2008, 09:32 AM
#2
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,493
Total Cats: 4,080
DIY is out of the boost solenoid. GM decided the part needed to cost $40 not $15.
this is a good soultion: http://airinc.thomasnet.com/Item?cid...7&assetid=spec $30 shipped and needs two 1/8" fittings of your choosing.
The MS looks almost ready to go. Rip out everything that's yellow and held down by superglue. The two FETs with the heatsinks can go if you plan on using High-Res code. Give you room to add boost control if you'd like. Is this a standalone install? you can use on of the TIP125 on Q12 or Q3 to control the idle valve. I've heard you can use them for the boost solenoid, but I don't know of anyone who has.
You gotta change the tachselect options on the board. XG1 and XG2 need to be jumped. TSEL needs to jump to OPTOOUT. TACHSELECT needs to jump to OPTOIN.
Once you remove all the jumpers and extra components you should do the standard miata mods.
this is a good soultion: http://airinc.thomasnet.com/Item?cid...7&assetid=spec $30 shipped and needs two 1/8" fittings of your choosing.
The MS looks almost ready to go. Rip out everything that's yellow and held down by superglue. The two FETs with the heatsinks can go if you plan on using High-Res code. Give you room to add boost control if you'd like. Is this a standalone install? you can use on of the TIP125 on Q12 or Q3 to control the idle valve. I've heard you can use them for the boost solenoid, but I don't know of anyone who has.
You gotta change the tachselect options on the board. XG1 and XG2 need to be jumped. TSEL needs to jump to OPTOOUT. TACHSELECT needs to jump to OPTOIN.
Once you remove all the jumpers and extra components you should do the standard miata mods.
Reply
0
0
10-23-2008, 10:13 AM
#4
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,493
Total Cats: 4,080
gotcha.
The fast-acting valve works great. Plus since it uses fittings you can size the barbs properly to your setup; I know some people with EWGs complain about the small port size of the GM solenoid.
The fast-acting valve works great. Plus since it uses fittings you can size the barbs properly to your setup; I know some people with EWGs complain about the small port size of the GM solenoid.
Reply
0
0
10-23-2008, 06:05 PM
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 248
Total Cats: 3
Cheers Brain- you're the man!
Yep I am going standalone (don't need powersteer or A/C). I wan't planning on using high res because I was following Diyautotunes setup but I will convert when I search/find a high res setup then.
I will start taking out all the yellow wires as well as the jumpers on the back of the MS tonight, as well as the FET things.
Will order the boost solenoid once I am 100% that I dont need anything else from Diy (since it has to come from the other side of the world!)
Dam my MS makes me feel like christmas has come early- I'm wearing a permanant grin!
Yep I am going standalone (don't need powersteer or A/C). I wan't planning on using high res because I was following Diyautotunes setup but I will convert when I search/find a high res setup then.
I will start taking out all the yellow wires as well as the jumpers on the back of the MS tonight, as well as the FET things.
Will order the boost solenoid once I am 100% that I dont need anything else from Diy (since it has to come from the other side of the world!)
Dam my MS makes me feel like christmas has come early- I'm wearing a permanant grin!
Reply
0
0
10-25-2008, 02:24 AM
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 248
Total Cats: 3
OK- A little confused now.
I have ripped out all the yellow , but now I have realised that the Fet things are Boost control and idle valve. so can I still leave them out if I want these options with high-res code??.... I'm guessing I put them back in.
The other thing I want to double check is Q12, R38 Q9 & R37 have been jumped in some way or another- eg: currently R37 has both pins jumped,as well as R38. Should I make these all un jumped? The other stress is that R38 and R37 have 3 prongs, and the ones in brains 'custom built megasquirts only have 2 prongs.
Cheers
Originally posted by Braineack
Rip out everything that's yellow and held down by superglue. The two FETs with the heatsinks can go if you plan on using High-Res code. Give you room to add boost control if you'd like. Is this a standalone install? you can use on of the TIP125 on Q12 or Q3 to control the idle valve. I've heard you can use them for the boost solenoid, but I don't know of anyone who has.
Rip out everything that's yellow and held down by superglue. The two FETs with the heatsinks can go if you plan on using High-Res code. Give you room to add boost control if you'd like. Is this a standalone install? you can use on of the TIP125 on Q12 or Q3 to control the idle valve. I've heard you can use them for the boost solenoid, but I don't know of anyone who has.
The other thing I want to double check is Q12, R38 Q9 & R37 have been jumped in some way or another- eg: currently R37 has both pins jumped,as well as R38. Should I make these all un jumped? The other stress is that R38 and R37 have 3 prongs, and the ones in brains 'custom built megasquirts only have 2 prongs.
Cheers
Last edited by ogwazza; 10-25-2008 at 04:54 AM. Reason: not wanting to sound dumb
Reply
0
0
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
StratoBlue1109
Miata parts for sale/trade
21
09-30-2018 01:09 PM
