MegaSquirt PNP Pro Cam Tooth Loss
2 Attachment(s)
TL;DR - Megasquirt PNP Pro is losing the 1 tooth side of the reluctor wheel on a NB2 Swapped 1990 Miata. Has anyone had this problem and fixed it?
Car Specs:
Back Story: During Qualifying at Barber Motorsports Park roughly 2 weeks ago the car was running great no issues. I posted my qualifying time and decided to come in. As I was entering pit road I bumper the car to neutral (like I always do) to coast down pit road and let the car cool down. as I was approaching the exit into the paddock I put the car in second gear and the car had 0 power and sounded/felt like it was running on only 2 cylinders and was struggling to run. Weird. So I shut the car off and we pushed it to our spot and started troubleshooting (and much more after we left). The Car has been running on the same configuration and setup for 10 months with 0 issues until the weekend at Barber. Reviewing The Log: The ECU is losing the 1 tooth side of the cam reluctor wheel. some times the motor will run great till 3k RPMs then sounds like its hitting a false rev limiter starts breaking up because it loses the 1 tooth side of the reluctor. Troubleshooting:
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Did you replace the trigger wheel with another OEM one?
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Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1352946)
Did you replace the trigger wheel with another OEM one?
I was thinking to replace the reluctor wheel. but I would have to buy a cam because the reluctor is not serviceable. |
I might have a cam. Let me check tomorrow night.
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Day 16 - The engine is still acting the same. DIYAutotune has been great in helping us troubleshoot potential causes of the issue but those have all led to dead ends.
160+ views, is everyone else confused like we are? |
Ask DIY to tell you where to probe in the ECU for the cam signal, after the MAX9926(?) to see if that's the possible cause of the issue.
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Originally Posted by Reverant
(Post 1354080)
Ask DIY to tell you where to probe in the ECU for the cam signal, after the MAX9926(?) to see if that's the possible cause of the issue.
probe at the CMP+ point on the headers at the top of the MS3-Pro Module. Since I don't have a oscilloscope I can connect to my computer, I took a video of the oscilloscope and sent this to them proving I was getting the correct signal to the ECU. You can hear the engine in the background not even being able to idle right. (Warning: crappy one man cell phone video): |
Originally Posted by 90PapaSmurf
(Post 1354341)
Thanks for the suggestion Reverant, I reached out to DIY and they told me to I could I am going to give that a shot.Quote:probe at the CMP+ point on the headers at the top of the MS3-Pro Module.
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Day 25 - Finally fixed the issue. Since DIY Had no clue what was going on we decided to rethink what happened coming over track. VVT kicks in at 3000 RPMs and while on track I was never below 4500 RPMs so VVT was always engaged until I bumped it to neutral and the motor dropped to idle.
Long story short we ordered a brand new VVT actuator from Mazda Motorsports (talk about not cheap) in a last ditch effort. This of course was the issue. The actuator is stuck full advance throwing the timing way out of band for the ECU to read losing the single tooth on the Cam trigger. So now we are going to see what broke in the actuator (hopefully serviceable) and add an actuator to the parts bin to take with us. We do see VVT err in TunerStudio though and I am not sure what could be triggering it. Does anyone have any ideas on where to start diagnosing the VVT Error? Should I start a new thread? https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8440bbf20.jpeg |
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