It doesn't complicate in the slightest, if anything it makes it easier, as you don't have to build a curcuit to activate a relay to turn on the A/C compressor (which is all the stock ECU does)

now go and read the Megamanual, becuase if running parallel confuses you you're gonna have a hell of a time building/installing a MS unit......

Oh I plan to read it cover to cover, there should be no doubt about that. I just want to be clear on a few things before I sit down and start reading and building. Like how they work in tandem.

Read it first, then ask :)

Good to hear this, A/C is a must for me as well. So MSPNP has this built in and works good?

I still have the AC in my car and I've been testing the one of the 95 pnp's. The AC (and the cruise control!) works as it always did.

My wideband controller is in the engine bay. I think alot of guys who go turbo have them in the engine bay as well... because when they go turbo they have to install the O2 sensor way down the downpipe underneath the car... and since you only have so long a cord on the actual sensor, the controller needs to live down there.

Why you gotta be like that? :sadwavey:

Well then answer me this then. Can cars that run both MS and factory ECU still pass inspection?
I know our cars are inspected through the OBD port, what happens when the time comes?

The stock ECU does more than just click on the clutch. It also ups the idle speed so that the engine won't stall when coming back down in the revs with the AC engaged. You can test this by unplugging the AC clutch and turning on the AC. The AC will not engage, but your idle will jump to 1400rpm or so. It normally stays lower with the AC on due to the parasitic draw of the compressor. Still should be easy enough to configure on the MS with a simple 12V/GND switch and a bit of software. I plan to keep my stock ecu in parallel for emissions reasons so I will never have to worry about this anyways.

true, but if you're controlling the idle then all the stock ECU is doing is turning on the AC ;)

Because it's frustrating, 90% of your questions will be answered in the MegaManual. and if you can't figure the simple stuff out then you're going to post on here and trash the ECU because you can't get it to work at the more complicated bits ;)

It's not personal tho mate, it's for your own good ;)

the lc-1 controller can be adjusted, so you can run whatever voltages you want to mimic a factory NB sensor...but you don't need to for ms of course.

Thats fantastic, thats one less problem for me to worry about. Guess I will run tandem as well.

I know its not hate, im just messing with you. You know better so I will read the megamanual.

I guess I'd rather post here than start another thread, so hopefully on topic for a naturally aspirated car:

I've got a 97 Miata. I plan on adding a 1999 head, 2001 intake manifold, custom gears. I spoke w/ Jimmy at FujiRacing and he's running a similar setup, except he's got IRTBs.

Until I go forced induction (most likely turbo), I was wondering what would be involved to install a Megasquirt kit. Since I live in Northern Virginia (NOVA), I do need to worry about OBDII. From what I gather, the kits that Neogenesis2004 and Braineack are what I need. I don't want a full standalone in order to pass emissions (OBDII check).

I'd love to hear any thoughts about what I need. I was planning for a custom exhaust w/ the Racing Beat header, so could have a bung for a wideband built.

thx!

-Ed

Holy thread resurrection.

Have you read through this yet?
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=17498

If you really want to learn everything you need, search for all threads and posts made by me from 3 months and older.

FUCK Jimmy from FUJI racing. tool.

first you say you don't have to worry about obdII, then you say you do have to pass obdII testing. which is it?

As far as what you need, all you need is:

• an MS in parallel or standalone depending on your obdII inspection needs
• WBO2
• optional IAT sensor, depending on if you remove you maf which depends on OBDII needs since it'll through a code
• laptop to tune
  

Regarding Jimmy: ORLY? I'm still trying to feel out the community and vendors, so thanks. Seemed pretty nice on the phone.

If you reread the part that you highlighted on my post, I said that I DO NEED to worry about OBDII (not "DO NOT NEED"). Is that what you thought I wrote? From what I gather (please correct me if I'm wrong), I think I want the kit (Neogenesis2004 and Braineack) that runs in parallel to allow the ECU to control the AC and idle.

If it's an NA car, does it require a WB02? From what I read, it seems that WB02 is only needed for boosted cars. I PM'd Braineack about 20 mins ago, so if he replied as I'm typing this...sorry!

Sorry for a dumb question, what is the IAT? I haven't read what that acronym is.

Thanks for everyone's input...sorry for the bump from the dead. It's hard to read all these threads in a couple of days and bump/reply ones that are stale or redundant.

-Ed

oops. my bad.

i run an MS in my NA miata. i run a wideband with it. Narrowbands suck. they are only accurate at stoich. other than that they can tell you rich or lean with no degree of accuracy. To use the MS to it's potential for tuning you want a wideband.

IAT is intake air temp sensor but if you are keeping the maf you don't need it. or has anyone figured out the check engine light after deleting the maf in a parallel install? in run standalone so not concerned. and both my squirted miatas are 94s

np. :)

I think I will get a wideband as well. Braineack returned my PM....so I'm leaning towards: MS kit, piggyback harness, WB02...and that's it?

I just want a parallel system that will get the most out of my head, intake manifold, cams, etc.

If you folks aren't too keen on Fujiracing, what would you recommend for cams? I've got adjustable gears that I can slap on (currently on my 1.8 - set to stock setting).

are you gonna control the butterflies in the intake runners?

From what I understand, correct me if I'm wrong, but Tommy at Partsgroup said there's a way to do so. He said a bunch of guys buy a 99 head, and newer intake manifolds. I think you need some sort of solenoid to be activated at certain rpm range(s) to do so. He said it wasn't hard.


....hard for someone other than me.

I'd love as much feedback, suggestions as possible.