Megasquirting a 94 1.8 with Immobilizer
 

I'm almost done with wiring my megasquirt loom into the factory loom but have a quick question.

My car (japanese import 94 1.8) came with a factory immobilizer - the bullet type. Does anyone know if this would affect my install at all? I've read through searches that some early immobilizers are tied to the ecu so getting rid of the factory ecu means no more immobilizer, however i have also read in another post that I may need different wiring layouts. Other people tell me that 94's didn't come with factory immobilizers at all!!! - although i'm pretty sure this is factory fitted.

Anyone have the low down on this?

FYI all the wire colors on my car match up to the 94 wiring diagrams on this forum.

I didn't think that an immobilizer was an option on a '94 either, though JDM could have been different. At any rate, in the factory configuration, the immobilization function is a part of the ECU, so if you remove the ECU and replace it with a MS, you have removed the immobilizer. All wiring is identical to a non-immobilized car, with the exception of a few additional wires to drive the coil around the ignition switch which reads the keyfob and such.

If this is some aftermarket device on the other hand, then who knows.

The only issue I have seen is on '94 and later 1.6 cars equipped with the immobilizer. They changed the ECU pinout and moved a couple of the pins to add this feature, but unfortunately I haven't been able to get a good wiring diagram or ECU pinout for the late model 1.6s with the immobilizer option.

This is what many people have also told me which is why i'm so confused. Anyway, I'll give it a try and let you know what happens.

The crucial thing, as Matt stated more clearly than I, is that the important wires are all in the same place. In other words, if the colors and pin locations match for the injectors, ignition, CAS, TPS, CLT, +12, ground, and so forth, then you are probably fine. If not, then you might have to hunt a bit to find them. I'd assume that the color codes would remain consistent, but you can easily enough find out with a multimeter and some time.

I have a non-factory imob on my 94 and that was never an issue.

To give an update and for reference, I got my car started fine in standalone the other night. The immobiliser still operates but it is not connected into the ecu and is on its own circuit.