gorillazfan1023

iTrader: (1)

I'm hoping I can get some help quick. I'm pretty bad at wiring. So help is appreciated.

Looking at the diagrams I think I can tap into all the sensor wires except the power wires? Or can I tap the power wires too? I ask because the vvt tuner diagram only as 1 12v input and the rest of power wires are labeled as outputs.

Hopefully I'm making sense and not sounding stupid

Amellrotts

iTrader: (2)

what car, what engine? My VVTuner is running on my 94 car so the wiring is completely independant of the engines.....Sorry, not much help

gorillazfan1023

iTrader: (1)

01. I wired directly to the sensors but wasn't sure it I just cut the original power wire and soldered one to it from the vvt tuner only or if I can tap to the power wire.

I feel like I did this a dumb way.

Amellrotts

iTrader: (2)

why are you using VVTuner with 01 car?

gorillazfan1023

iTrader: (1)

Because turbo and megasquirt and my megasquirt can't control vvt and not controlling makes it suck

Amellrotts

iTrader: (2)

awwww, I see the picture now.
I think you are fine to tap into the sensors. Is the megasquirt using the input from those sensors? The VVTuner manual talks about doing this. It is on the DIY website, I remember reading it but since it did not apply to my situation I didn't pay attention to it. I am sure you can find the information you want there. Good luck!

gorillazfan1023

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, I suck at wiring and apparently searching. I find the diyautotune site in general to be pretty tough to navigate, but I am a noob.

Amellrotts

iTrader: (2)

yeah, it is not the best and I am right there with you......I printed out a book and read it a hundred times before I did my VVTunner install. I hope you get it worked out.....

gorillazfan1023

iTrader: (1)

I've been going over it for awhile. Then the person soldering decided we should just tap into the wires...then I saw the input output thing and got worried. I'm not trying to over power stuff.

gorillazfan1023

iTrader: (1)

Hmmm could it be I'm an idiot (I know I am) and I should've just left the power wires alone? Because they're still getting power so I don't need to power them via the vvt tuner?

gorillazfan1023

iTrader: (1)

I'm pretty sure that I didn't need to f with the power wires. I totally forgot it was designed for putting vvt engines in cars that didn't have vvt so there is no connection to the main harness for it and therefore the unit would need to provide power to the sensors...

gorillazfan1023

iTrader: (1)

I need help like mad bad. Unit gets power. However when the key is in the acc postion you can hear an audible click of something switching in the engine bay. Additionally the lights flickered when this clicking happened.

Here's how the unit is setup.
12v in with 5amp fuse
System ground
Crankshaft signal input
Camshaft signal input
The two wires going to the oil control valve

The car will not turn on. It just cranks and does a weird little stutter thing sometimes. The unit also got hot. When starting the car after unplugging the unit it was a little hesitant at first but after a second it seemed to be alright.

I'm really confused any help would be very appreciated.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

how about you post what wires (with colors) you have exactly where on the harness?

maybe like this:

gorillazfan1023

iTrader: (1)

That's not a nb2 miata harness is it? I pulled the cam and crank sensor signal directly from the wires off the sensors because I'm stupid. Same thing with the ocv I have the wires from the sensor pigtail. Ill work on getting a fancy picture like that.

gorillazfan1023

iTrader: (1)

So I was fooling with the car again tonight...annnnd the unit started to melt. So I'm a lot a bit confused. I've emailed DIY to see what they say.

gorillazfan1023

iTrader: (1)

Update for everyone.

I received my replacement vvt tuner unit. I then soldiered on the cup connector myself this time. I didn't get to try and fire it up. But I did let it sit with power to the unit for a little and it didn't seem to get hot like it did last time. My issues may have been from the pretty crappy soldier job on the connecter. When I pulled it apart one wired wasn't even really attached and it looked like some of the soldier was actually connecting the power input with another pin...So hopefully my issues will be gone. I shall report back with results.

gorillazfan1023

iTrader: (1)

No luck. The unit still gets extremely hot when I try to start the car with it attached.

Edit: I'm going to triple check all my signal wires again. As well as pull power from somewhere else and ground somewhere else. I might even pull the signal for the crank and cam sensors from somewhere else too.

gorillazfan1023

iTrader: (1)

Ok I need help... So I checked my power and ground. It gets 12v when the ignition is on. When I crank it drops to about 9v and then goes to ~14.5v when the car is running. I'm kinda dumb is it ok that its 14v after the car is running or is that bad?

Also when I stop cranking the car (with the unit plugged in) it starts clicking and flicking the gauges like if you've ever started a car that has a wet battery, how all the stuff will flicker and what not.

I can post exactly how I have it wired but Ben said it looked good.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

sounds normal.


how exactly/where do you have it wired?

gorillazfan1023

iTrader: (1)

It turns out I made a wiring mistake... It was getting to much power. Fixed it and it didn't fire but it also didn't get stupid hot either

I'm just going to redo my whole little harness. Also might try a different vacuum source (I tee'd in where my boost gauge and map sensor get vac from).

This is so embarrassing face palm to the max.