and you tuned the timing latency too right?

Boost can spike faster than an EMS can log it.

This can make figuring out your boost cut lurch kinda challenging sometimes.

I followed your instructions.

I did everything here:
Megasquirt-3 MS3 Checking ignition timing

I was actually seeing like 12 or 13 degrees at idle if I recall correctly.

but how did you line up your pulley marks when the timing was locked at 10°?

My buddy held the timing light and I increased the trigger angle. He told me when the outer and center pulley marks matched up.

so it looked like this:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1342033488


???



and the timing latency, that's when the timing was still locked and you reved the motor up to make sure the timing didnt advance/retard.

He lined them up and I took his word for it. I know my plate was real dirty where it says 10, so its possible that the first mark lined up on the left and the second item lined up with the 10 in the middle. I'll find out, its very likely that could've contributed to the motor letting go if that's the case lol.

And yes, we revved the motor up and there wasn't any movement to like 5k but we did take a break or two in the middle of stuff because we were having problems with the software, so maybe settings were messed up.

Is there no way to read the timing from those data logs? How do you hook up a knock sensor to the MS3x for when I do this again?

Well if the trigger angle is off from what is acutal, the ms could say 40° and youre really at 10°.

go you still idle the car? at least do idle it, and point your light at it, you should se the yellow dot around the 15° mark...

at least we then can rule out if the timing was off as the reason.

I'm confused by your first sentence.

I can go idle the car on Friday afternoon and see where the timing is at.

ms doesn't magically KNOW what the actual timing your motor is running. therefore you calibrate it with the timing light. therefore if you mess up and do it wrong, the engine timing and what ms thinks engine is running are totally off. therefore the log will be useless and MS might be saying you run 10* when in fact your motor is running 20*.

etc etc etc

The reason you change the trigger angle to sync the timing is because the MS only knows what you tell it to be correct.

if you tell it something false, it will display something false.



its kinda like if I tell my wife we have $40 in the bank, and she spends $40, then we get an email frm my bank that our account overdrafted because we only had $30 in the account and they've charged us a $30 overdraft fee.

where what I told my wife is syncing the CAS timing, my wife spending $40 is what the MS is outputting, the email from the bank telling us that we were off by $10, and the fee is the blown motor.

Isn't that what they call GIGO, professor?

and by wife he means husband

also you didn't explain the rod in the tailpipe

piss off.

:fawk:

Is timing latancy something needed on MS2? ive never seen any references to it.

its needed on all MS installs, firmwares, versions.

I am going to add another thing here: as good as autotune is, it is really meant for a course tune. You will have to manually check everything. Specially if you suddenly change the boost from 10 to 15PSI. Typically the RPM will change too quick for autotune to pickup correctly unless you are on the dyno and doing a steady state tune.

I've been running a "coarse tune" for 6 years now.

After talking to my friend, I'm pretty sure we lined up the green mark on the pulley to the 10* mark on the plate. Therefore, the timing was probably ~10 too advanced compared to what MS thought, correct?

Hence my motor taking a ----.

Hmm, oh well. I was waiting for her to die, know I think I know why. Next time the timing will be set correct and I will richen the tune up a bit by autotuning it with lower target AFRs.

That funny that you have run a coarse tune for 6 years since the autotune feature hasn't been around for 6 years!!!