Mounting the MS in a 1.6L (passenger footwell)
#1
Mounting the MS in a 1.6L (passenger footwell)
Hey, I'm back again with more questions
I have a 1991 NA where the ECU is mounted in the passenger footwell. I've been testing / tuning with the car partially disassembled so mounting the MS hasn't really been a concern up til now, as I'm trying to get it all put together before I go get the car inspected.
So -- my issue is that the parallel harness i have is kinda short and i can't really find a GOOD way to mount the ECU.. Even if i'm able to get the MS in there next to the stock ecu in a flat way, will it fit under the panel? will it rattle in there?
Tips appreciated as always!
-Tomaj
I have a 1991 NA where the ECU is mounted in the passenger footwell. I've been testing / tuning with the car partially disassembled so mounting the MS hasn't really been a concern up til now, as I'm trying to get it all put together before I go get the car inspected.
So -- my issue is that the parallel harness i have is kinda short and i can't really find a GOOD way to mount the ECU.. Even if i'm able to get the MS in there next to the stock ecu in a flat way, will it fit under the panel? will it rattle in there?
Tips appreciated as always!
-Tomaj
#6
Wednesday my MS kept resetting, and I assumed either my grounds or power wire connection were dying, since I SUCK at soldering. It would only do it while accelerating, and the worst in first. It eventually got so bad I couldn't keep up with traffic.
I pushed the car behind a business, checked ground, re-did power where I spliced in LC-1 with a butt connector...no dice.
Looked around in desperation, and saw my unplugged TPS connector dangling down by the alternator...I think DUMBSHIT was the word that first flew out of my mouth. Let's just say there is more than one zip tie there now.
#8
Tour de Franzia
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Its a new problem from the last time I worked on it...now I have to wait to send it off to DIY it justify working on it again. How many threads have I made about "how do I fix this and that?" Not bad for a car which just recieved so much custom work.
#9
That would be the last time you ever hit anyone. I mow down ------s like you daily like I'm mowing the lawn.
Its a new problem from the last time I worked on it...now I have to wait to send it off to DIY it justify working on it again. How many threads have I made about "how do I fix this and that?" Not bad for a car which just recieved so much custom work.
Its a new problem from the last time I worked on it...now I have to wait to send it off to DIY it justify working on it again. How many threads have I made about "how do I fix this and that?" Not bad for a car which just recieved so much custom work.
You're right, you have very few problems for how "out there" your setup is.
OP: I only posted my location because I love being able to connect the serial cable from the driver's seat for tuning. I carry my laptop everywhere for school, and I've got it set up now so that I just zip open laptop case, open laptop, open glovebox and connect cables while computer comes out of hibernation, and am datalogging in under a minute.
It takes some cutting on the back of the glovebox, but you will see the angle and such is the only way to get the controller and the harness/MAP line in without breaking any visible plastic. There is just enough room over the mounting bar for the glove box for these to move, and just enough room to stuff them to left of HVAC blower behind glove box.
I should have done a write-up on it but I didn't have a decent camera. It will become evident where to drill the holes as you put the controller in there. I also used nylon washers to cut vibration.
Oh yeah, you will need to cut a 1/4" triangle piece out of the dash lip to the left of the glovebox latch to clear corner of MS casing. This one ugly part is covered by the box lid when closed.
#13
Tour de Franzia
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
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I like how you have the grippy part of the wheel cover on top, at 12-o'clock so you can drive like a ------, urban-douchebag, virgin poseur. Pimp that ****, badass ************. I bet you listen to Puffy in that **** too. The hell with the price, the money ain't a thang.
#14
Man i'm still trying to figure out my mounting solution as well. I like to be able to see when my warmup light goes off but i'm pretty sure if I start paying attention to where it turns off with the gauge, i'll be fine.
Right now I have mine floating around on the floor board temporarily. One plus side to this is that I can unplug the MS and take it with me when I get a funny feeling about where i'm parking.
Most likely I will end up mounting mine Joe style.
Right now I have mine floating around on the floor board temporarily. One plus side to this is that I can unplug the MS and take it with me when I get a funny feeling about where i'm parking.
Most likely I will end up mounting mine Joe style.
#15
Under the glove box.
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#16
Not sure if this helps as mine is standalone, but I did this:
http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/d...MSglovebox.jpg
just *barely fits with room to hook up serial cable
http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/d...MSglovebox.jpg
just *barely fits with room to hook up serial cable
#19
Here's one:
Cables To Go - 6ft DB37 M/F Extension Cable
Odds are you won't find one in any local shop, not a lot of demand for that item
-Tomaj
Cables To Go - 6ft DB37 M/F Extension Cable
Odds are you won't find one in any local shop, not a lot of demand for that item
-Tomaj
#20
Boost Pope
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Careful of store-bought DB37 cables. As they're intended for computer use, they tend to be made of really thin wire- like 28-30ga. This is completely inadequate for high-current circuits like the injector drivers. If you gotta have an extension, build your own.