Originally Posted by yertnamreg1218
(Post 242652)
So from reading this it would seem there is no actual regulator on the output voltage of the alternator. If this is the case, this is really super easy to do.
Every automotive alternator I've seen was "regulated" by a feedback mechanism- adjusting the field coil intensity to achieve the desired output- rather than what we'd consider a true series regulator- it's hugely more efficient, and sufficiently accurate for the degree of precision required. It's just that the controller for said mechanism is usually either internal to the alternator or, at most, a small external box. This business of having the PCM do it is relatively new, and I cannot for the life of me figure out why the PCM cares how warm it is outside, unless they're trying to eke an extra 0.01% out of the battery or something... I took a quick look at the NB A/C and it shouldn't be that bad, maybe ome comparators and a few transistors and I can get it working. On a side note, are there any other EE/CPE's around here?? |
I'd be more than happy to test out one of these boards for a 94/95 for ya.
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Those caps and tubes sound exciting, thats something I've always been interested in but never gotten a chance to mess with. Although next year for my senior design project I think my department is going to let my team build a continuous wave audio modulated tesla coil. Should be a good time.
As for the regulator, I was sure it wouldn't be linear, but thought there might be some switching regulator of some sort. (I'm a computer engineer and I have been exposed to much power stuff) As for every one who has volunteered to be guinea pigs, I'm doing the 90-93 first cause thats what I have and I will test it myself and maybe on one turbo car. Then I think I'll try to tackle the NB's cause DIY doesn't have a solution for ya'll and I think it would be mildly humorous to beat them to a semi-plug and play solution for the NB's. I will definitely need volunteers for this. The rest will be last. I'm in Terre Haute, Indiana. I would prefer volunteers to be semi close by. Lets not get ahead of ourselves though, I'm really busy with school so this will be done in what little spare time I have. |
Originally Posted by Joe Perez
(Post 242690)
This business of having the PCM do it is relatively new, and I cannot for the life of me figure out why the PCM cares how warm it is outside, unless they're trying to eke an extra 0.01% out of the battery or something...
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Originally Posted by yertnamreg1218
(Post 242917)
I will definitely need volunteers for this. The rest will be last. I'm in Terre Haute, Indiana. I would prefer volunteers to be semi close by.
Something I'd suggest would be to put all the outputs to the 16 pin connector, like the fuel pump, o2, AIC outputs, spares, etc. This way if anyone build custom circuits like (knock or ebc) they just use a plug to simply plug them into the connector and not have wires all over the place... a few things may want to be in two locations, like the 02 / WB signal.... |
Originally Posted by Matt Cramer
(Post 242995)
Hondas have the only ECU-controlled regulator I've been able to study in depth so far.
Originally Posted by yertnamreg1218
Those caps and tubes sound exciting, thats something I've always been interested in but never gotten a chance to mess with.
The big FM transmitters, everything from 20 to 70 kilowatts, still use good old-fashioned pentodes and tetrodes in their final amps, though most of the IPAs (the drivers) have gone solid-state. The first transmitter I ever worked on was a Harris FM20K. It used a 4CX15000A final tube, which ran at about 9.45 kV on the plate. The filament circuit drew about 160A at 6.1 - 6.2 volts, and that was not even the biggest tube in that family. The mega-VHF rigs use a 4CV100,000 tube- 17.5 kV @ 16A, with a 215A @ 15.5V filament. And the UHF transmitters are even freakier. Most of 'em use either Klystrons or IOTs- yeah, the same stuff they build linear particle accelerators out of. Pure inductive devices with magnetically focused beamlines- we're talking 50 to 100 kV, and they're water-cooled! [/hijack] |
"4CV100,000 tube- 17.5 kV @ 16A, with a 215A @ 15.5V filament."
That is amazing. I want power supplies that can do that. :eek5: |
Here's a guy who offers something similar for motorcycles:
http://turbobikes.org/forum/index.php/topic,175.0.html Maybe we all can take this one step further and include all the MS hardware onto the same board? So we dont have a mass of wires (and the corresponding number of failure modes) sticking out from the board? I dont know the legal issues involved in this though, but MS being open source they should have no problem? |
Or, alternatively, stack the adapter board on top of the v3.0 board using the DB37, and mount the whole thing in a bigger case.
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Originally Posted by The_Pipefather
(Post 243350)
Maybe we all can take this one step further and include all the MS hardware onto the same board? So we dont have a mass of wires (and the corresponding number of failure modes) sticking out from the board? I dont know the legal issues involved in this though, but MS being open source they should have no problem?
As to "legal issues", that's the sticking point. The Extra code is open-source, but the 3.0 schematic and board layout are copyrighted B&G. I have not approached them (since quite honestly I don't have time to do this myself) but I wonder what their response might be? |
I think taking their schematics and redo'ing it specifically for the miata would be legit because we would only use their schematics for reference. I'm pretty sure that isn't illegal.
This however is not what I will be doing. It seems you guys are complaining about the jumpers and resistors we have to add to the MS. Its like 4 wires, how hard can it be. What I aim to do with my board is effectively replace the wiring harness (which has like ~50000 wires to screw up on). Making a new MS is definitely doable, but I don't think I want to tackle it. If anyone is interested though I do have a footprint for the yellow female ECU connector in an orcad library file (*.olb), and let me say you should be very thankful for it cause making the footprint was a bitch. PM me with an email address if you want it. Also I'm honing in on a final design for the 90-93 board. I'm going to mill a prototype next week and test it on the car as soon as possible. Finally I think I figured out why my MS isn't working. Originally I was trying to get it to run with the stock AFM until I got my intake drilled and tapped. The car ran once before I got the GM IAT in. Then I switched to the GM IAT (WITHOUT RUNNING THE FUEL PUMP WIRE). The car would fire up, but would always die (because it wasn't getting fuel). Well after looking through all these schematics it is now clear to me. I'm pretty sure my maps are close to correct (and its warm outside so no coldstart to deal with), so hopefully I will finally be megasquirted tonight!!! I can't wait! |
at least comment on my "can get them printed on the cheap" comment..... :(
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No, I don't have a board place. I've been looking around online, but they are all pretty expensive. The only capability I have is 2 sided small-medium sized boards not silk screen or solder masked. This is enough for testing out the design to make sure the layout is good and everything works. The only thing I pay is the cost of the blank copper board itself.
If you have a good board place for cheap, I am definitely interested. The final board will need to be 2 side silk screened and solder masked. I'm going to keep it small (no proto area on actual adapter), but I'll bring all the signals out on a pin header. Then we can make a board will a female header bring out the signals and have a proto area on it. We can have that header common to all the adapters so that "mods" are interchangeable. Finally, I turned on the fuel pump using the diagnostic connector and sure it enough it fired up and ran this time!!! I should be running on the MS using my boomslang by the end of the weekend! |
tell me exactly how it needs to be printed and ill see (IE, dad is general manager at a plant that makes telecommunications circuit boards)
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Originally Posted by yertnamreg1218
(Post 243569)
It seems you guys are complaining about the jumpers and resistors we have to add to the MS. Its like 4 wires, how hard can it be.
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Originally Posted by Joe Perez
(Post 243744)
Uhm... when I get back home I'll find a picture of the backside of my MS. It's a forest of green wire.
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Originally Posted by Joe Perez
(Post 243744)
Uhm... when I get back home I'll find a picture of the backside of my MS. It's a forest of green wire.
http://www.jugrnot.com/megasquirt/CRW_9255-1.jpg 4 jumper wires my ass... |
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Originally Posted by The_Pipefather
(Post 243791)
I gotz mo wirez than yall:
http://www.jugrnot.com/IMG_0326.jpg |
Originally Posted by yertnamreg1218
(Post 242917)
I'm in Terre Haute, Indiana. I would prefer volunteers to be semi close by.
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