Arkmage

iTrader: (3)

alrighty... thanks to all you guys that provided maps (particularly CJerigan and DIY AutoTune) my car is drivable with the turbo now.

The down side is that I have no idea how to tune it with the AFR as jumpy as it is. Check out the attached photo... is this normal?

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

Does the JAW gauge itself go crazy like that as well or is it more smooth in it's readout? Also, is it grounded to the same spot as the MS?
That's not normal, it should not spike real high then drop in half a second like that.
This is normal.

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

hey that looks awfulll familiar I think you got your logs crossed chad

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

Indeed, pretty sure that is your icecream run. Kinda funny, i opened it because it was the only one on my desktop, then had to question myself where it came from.

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

Yeah that was the day i was hankering for a sundea.

Arkmage

iTrader: (3)

It's grounded to the chassis in the same location as the MS (Stock ECU mounting bolt). The display moves around quite a bit also, but it's hard to say if it's moving around as fast since I'm driving and not staring at the display.

Any ideas on what I can do to fix this? I don't believe I am running that lean because generally 22 afr won't burn.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

You can check to see how fast it moves by just revving it sitting still. If you hold the laptop near the JAW gauge you can kind of tell if they're reading the same. Is the jaw adjustable in any way? To restrict it's jumpiness. I know it's a DIY setup but i don't know if you can adjust some firmware for it to make it read slower.

Arkmage

iTrader: (3)

The slowest setting is 8 Hz, that's where it's set at. :(

Arkmage

iTrader: (3)

1) verified that the JAW display doesn't jump around like the MS readout.

2) output from JAW to MS is stable (read w/ multimeter)

any ideas? there are only 4 connection points in the line.

1) screw terminal at JAW
2) insulated spade connector under center console
3) wire to DB37
4) DB37 to MS

Right now I'm thinking I may have a bad solder joint on the db37, but it's going to suck to take that apart and check so if there are other ideas I'm open to trying them out.

Arkmage

iTrader: (3)

removed connection 2 and soldered the joint, I also checked the connection on the db37 and it's clean and solid. I have less than .3 ohms between the controller output and the MS input. Still have a **** ton of noise. Come on fellas, I need help here.

Image is at idle so you can see how nasty this is just sitting still.

*edit* anyone know which pin on the LSU wbo2 is the heater ground? I think I'm going to disconnect it from the JAW and ground it somewhere else and see if that solves the issue.

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

Hmm how is your config for the wideband set? For 0-5V LC1 or something?

Arkmage

iTrader: (3)

Correct 0-5V LC1 output from the JAW. MS is configured for the same.

I isolated the heater ground and grounded it near the shift turret. That seems to have helped but the signal is still nasty as hell.

ideas?

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

Man i really can't come up with anything. Have you email 14point7 or called him up possibly? Grounds and configuration are usually the only issue with widebands that i know of.

Arkmage

iTrader: (3)

sent him an e-mail... no response yet, but I'm not surprised since it's a holiday weekend and all.

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

On you screencap...I see a Max AFR of 21.991. How could that be if you have BOTH your LC-1 and Megatune/Megasquirt for 0-5V -> 10-20AFR?

Jim

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

fuel cut overrun. and maybe abit of over voltage.

Arkmage

iTrader: (3)

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

Hint: You have 0-5V -> 7-22 AFR somewhere.

Jim

Arkmage

iTrader: (3)

I don't want hints.. I want solutions... I'm tool slow to figure out hints.

jwx

I think what he was hinting at was to change the setting to 0v=10.1 and 5v=20.1...