bouncy WBO2 signal
#1
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bouncy WBO2 signal
alrighty... thanks to all you guys that provided maps (particularly CJerigan and DIY AutoTune) my car is drivable with the turbo now.
The down side is that I have no idea how to tune it with the AFR as jumpy as it is. Check out the attached photo... is this normal?
The down side is that I have no idea how to tune it with the AFR as jumpy as it is. Check out the attached photo... is this normal?
Last edited by Arkmage; 11-27-2007 at 04:17 PM.
#2
Does the JAW gauge itself go crazy like that as well or is it more smooth in it's readout? Also, is it grounded to the same spot as the MS?
That's not normal, it should not spike real high then drop in half a second like that.
This is normal.
That's not normal, it should not spike real high then drop in half a second like that.
This is normal.
Last edited by cjernigan; 11-25-2007 at 12:47 AM.
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Any ideas on what I can do to fix this? I don't believe I am running that lean because generally 22 afr won't burn.
#7
You can check to see how fast it moves by just revving it sitting still. If you hold the laptop near the JAW gauge you can kind of tell if they're reading the same. Is the jaw adjustable in any way? To restrict it's jumpiness. I know it's a DIY setup but i don't know if you can adjust some firmware for it to make it read slower.
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You can check to see how fast it moves by just revving it sitting still. If you hold the laptop near the JAW gauge you can kind of tell if they're reading the same. Is the jaw adjustable in any way? To restrict it's jumpiness. I know it's a DIY setup but i don't know if you can adjust some firmware for it to make it read slower.
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1) verified that the JAW display doesn't jump around like the MS readout.
2) output from JAW to MS is stable (read w/ multimeter)
any ideas? there are only 4 connection points in the line.
1) screw terminal at JAW
2) insulated spade connector under center console
3) wire to DB37
4) DB37 to MS
Right now I'm thinking I may have a bad solder joint on the db37, but it's going to suck to take that apart and check so if there are other ideas I'm open to trying them out.
2) output from JAW to MS is stable (read w/ multimeter)
any ideas? there are only 4 connection points in the line.
1) screw terminal at JAW
2) insulated spade connector under center console
3) wire to DB37
4) DB37 to MS
Right now I'm thinking I may have a bad solder joint on the db37, but it's going to suck to take that apart and check so if there are other ideas I'm open to trying them out.
#10
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removed connection 2 and soldered the joint, I also checked the connection on the db37 and it's clean and solid. I have less than .3 ohms between the controller output and the MS input. Still have a **** ton of noise. Come on fellas, I need help here.
Image is at idle so you can see how nasty this is just sitting still.
*edit* anyone know which pin on the LSU wbo2 is the heater ground? I think I'm going to disconnect it from the JAW and ground it somewhere else and see if that solves the issue.
Image is at idle so you can see how nasty this is just sitting still.
*edit* anyone know which pin on the LSU wbo2 is the heater ground? I think I'm going to disconnect it from the JAW and ground it somewhere else and see if that solves the issue.
#12
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I isolated the heater ground and grounded it near the shift turret. That seems to have helped but the signal is still nasty as hell.
ideas?