Braineack

iTrader: (62)

dash tach or megasquirt digital tach?

those first two resistors you moved? they are orange orange red gold?

skullzaflare

iTrader: (2)

dash
the 2 you had me move are brown black red gold

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

no, the first that were already on the green wires. i think they are 30K or something judging by the colors which may be why the dash tach isn't moving (no spark)

skullzaflare

iTrader: (2)

oobg, 330ohm

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

hmmm i dunno then. i guess revert it all back and ill scratch my head for a bit.

skullzaflare

iTrader: (2)

well, i left it as it was last night, and rebuilt the harness for standalone, and it starts now! it does POP when you first turn the key on though, scared the ---- out of me lol
still working on it of course, IAC works, i dont know if the fan does yet

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

search about the pop. that good, wonder what the deal was, but that dropout SHOULD go away.

skullzaflare

iTrader: (2)

i spent hours last night building the harness from scratch lol
someone should really label the parts each wire goes to from this

and i say that because there is 2 Bl/w and 2 Gn/w, one of each has a yellow line, which i presumed to be the sensor one, however, since i was making it from scratch i was guessing lol
http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2...ne_harness.jpg

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

thats why those pin positions are called out on the oem side diagram. make sure your clutch input and fan output match...

skullzaflare

iTrader: (2)

my clutch switch is bypassed so i didnt hook that up
it doesnt specify which is which, unless im looking in the wrong places

the colors with yellow highlight i used for the ignitor and CAS, car runs so i assume i assumed right lol
so the 2 without yellow are for clutch and fans? i didnt solder those 2 to the harness connector yet, just the db37.
i dont have the fan mod installed, granted i dont have the IAC either, though IAC works.
presuming my fan doesnt work, what part numbers will i need? i have a couple old ecus from other cars i robbed a 1k 1/4 off of last night, along with a few other parts. only thing i dont have is the .01uf cap

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

correct.

(but look again on the harness diagram--the blue/green CAS input is label with pin 25, and the spark output is labeled with pin 31)


you can use the middle led circuit to run the fan relay...see the diagram i posted a bunch of posted back.

skullzaflare

iTrader: (2)

wow, i see that now lol, i feel stupid now

not sure how i missed that lol. yea im looking at the diagram now, about jumping d15 led, so im reading through that. you say q4 is not used so put the q4 chip where the q7 chip is/was?

btw, heres my final

skullzaflare

iTrader: (2)

back to the drawing boards, fixed the shock earlier, finally got to road test it, its 20x worse now

skullzaflare

iTrader: (2)

video

skullzaflare

iTrader: (2)

where are you at Braineack?

bypassed CKP and CMP to the ecu, still dropping off, so it has to be something with the ecu physical setup

skullzaflare

iTrader: (2)

added a .1uf cap, still same results

skullzaflare

iTrader: (2)

and ideas? im completely lost, if it were not for the bike i would be stranded at home

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

you know a lot of times when you see RPM spikes like that it's a bad ignitor...


that's what mine was doing after a while of running on those old kingofleet mods.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

under wheel decoder options, try:

base = 2
2nsd trigger
rising
no missing
trig pos A 2
Trig pos B 1

025 style

skullzaflare

iTrader: (2)

the ignitor is built into the coils correct? so if i change the coil pack in theory it should go away