elesjuan

iTrader: (11)

Does anyone else on this board thing that the Innovate LC-1 is an incredible pile of garbage?

I bought my sensor controller from Kelly IIRC from WOT tuning or whoever. The sensor it shipped with was bad, attempting to contact Kelly AND Innovate lead to ABSOLUTELY NO REPLY FROM EITHER, I had to buy a new sensor OUT OF POCKET to make the running total almost 300$ for this piece of ****.

Now its on a kick, basically anytime I want to start my car and go somewhere I have to remove the sensor and redo the free air calibration. Otherwise, it displays 7:1.

Anyone else having ABSOLUTELY NO LUCK with this ******* thing??????

sotaku

iTrader: (4)

I had better support than that but after running dedicated lines, relocating the sensor, installing a heatshield, replacing the sensor, RMAing it, getting it back having it work for a month and then refuse to connect to the laptop and still not trusting the thing - I went AEM UEGO and freaking love it. It may be less accurate and less controllable but I trust it and it's not nearly as pissy as the LC1 seemed to be with me.

Really rather frustrating.

ApexOnYou

iTrader: (10)

Some people here will say that if you got rid of the LC1 for anything else you are an idiot, but I ditched that **** after weeks of changing things trying to get it to work right. My first problems were of course improper grounding and power, but after I fixed that the stupid POS broke itself. I am pretty sure the sensor took a ****, but I didn't even have 200 miles on it. I now have $400 worth of junk sitting in a corner of my shop, and a working UEGO in its place. Anyone want to buy a non functional LC1? ha

elesjuan

iTrader: (11)

Guess my first action will be dedicated power and ground.. *sigh*

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Dedicated power (add-a-fuse under the dash) and a good ground (grounded to the ECU grounds) and the only times I have trouble with it are when it's very cold (30s) outside (takes much longer than normal to warm up) or when I beat on the car for 6 laps straight in 90+ degree heat with the sensor in the stock position and it overheats. They definitely seem to be hit or miss, though.

Zaphod

I am quite happy to have the Zeitronix ZT-2 if I keep on reading things like that. No problems whatsoever.

Greets

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

I had a **** ton of problems in the beginning with mine as well, just look for my threads. But after reading the instructions and following them to the T, all the problems went away.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Try to talk to Felipe in Support. My controller went bad after a year of use, troubleshooted with him over the phone and then sent it in, and I had a new unit within two weeks.

But as far as all the issue, I dunno what you ladies are doing with these things

richyvrlimited

iTrader: (1)

Ditto, install the ****** properly and you'll have zero issues.

Mine's been on in the stock location with a copper heatshield for the past 2 1/2 years and I've not had one issue.

IMO all problems are down to a **** poor install.

elesjuan

iTrader: (11)

Welded a bung on right before the cat flange, zip tied it to the PPF, tied and loomed up the cabling under the hood and plugged it into the factory wiring. That last part is starting to look the culprit of my problems. Guess thats what I get for wanting a complete PNP solution.

sotaku

iTrader: (4)

You know there was a time where I would have agreed with you. But at this point I have to call BS (not on you, but the notion that all problems are due to idiocy in install). Using a freshly RMA'd unit, with dedicated grounds (where the ecu is grounded), dedicated power (confirmed to be stable), bung just before the cat with a heatshield (fresh sensor), and the thing still blew up within a few weeks (and hobbled those first few weeks). Showed full lean all the time. Recalibrated double checked connections, reflashed, still nothing. Can't even hit the serial port now.

I did it the half-assed way the first time and payed for it but after doing it right following every direction perfectly and it busting even worse, I jerked the thing out.

The kicker - I put the UEGO in the same exact spot with the same power and ground and it's rock solid. Never even a blip of instability. It's great to finally trust my WB02. I would have loved to use the LC1, loved the configurability of it, and the first time I installed it it was hyper accurate (until it started spewing Error 8s every drive).

No doubt poor installs can and do cause problems but there comes a point where the equipment is just questionable. Like I said, I would have preferred to keep it - but the thing drove me crazy.

But hey, at least I got some great grounds and clean power out of the deal

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Yeah try following the directions and see if that helps. I followed the directions EXACTLY and it works fine. Well, 99% followed the directions. Only thing I did different was I have the LC1 on at run AND at start so it doesn't reset when I start the engine. Some say that's bad on it and all but it works fine so far and I wanted it this way so I can datalog startup and if I stall and restart I have a valid datalog of AFR's, etc.

JimAtFSU

My only beef with the AEM is that the narrowband output is a useless pile of ****. Otherwise no problems with it yet.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Poor OP he has problems with everything that has to do with wiring.

SKYWLKR

Can I tie the LC-1 ground into the noe or more of the ground wires to the ECU under dash? Do they have enough overhead left to do that?

Using MSPnP BTW

I am trying to run as little wire as possible.

johndoe

iTrader: (5)

Before I installed mine I read every problem thread here and read the directions several times. So far (crossing my fingers) I haven't had any problems. That's 3 months so far.

Matt Cramer

Ground the LC-1 directly to the block or cylinder head.

SKYWLKR

I ran a dedicated ground (12ga was the only wire I had...) to the ground lug where the ECU grounds and a dedicated power from a KO fuse under the dash but the signal is NOISY!!!

I dropped the sample rate to 1/12 sec to the G3 Gauge and it helped the guage a bit but the MS is getting a real jumpy reading.

By grounding it to the same ground wires the ECU uses, at the ECU would the signal not be cleaner? I'm sure they can handle the extra 3-4 amps.


Would shortening the LC-1 wires and/or sheilding help any?

dynokiller90

I have to chime in a bit here. any time you have wires that are coiled with current running through them, you create an electro magnetic field( but I assume you know this). so if you have a bunch of wire all wrapped up and tied together. . . I'm sure it would create some noise. with as finicky as these are supposed to be, I would definitely try to straighten it out and see if it makes any difference. I see absolutely no reason not to shorten them though.

SKYWLKR

I actually have them run in a big loop to avoid any field generation.

I did have them run near my laptop inverter which I am now powering straight off the battery.

I also re-wired the LC-1 and gauge and the gauge does not seems to jump as much. I have not put the laptop on yet though, I will on the way to work tomorrow and see if it cleaned up any.

I also moved my MAP signal tie in to the FPR from the TB nipple.