ms2 cas pull in
 

I built the cam circuit based off the miataturbo wiki for my MS2, who else did and has anyone also have loss of sync?

Currently I bought the parts to build the circuit with the optoisolator in it, hopefully once built and installed I will get rid of my issues with sync loss.

(Posting from my phone.)

Never has sync loss issue with that circuit.

Me neither. No sync loss with that circuit. I did have a no sync, no start issue before but it was due to a bad battery .

I've always had sync loss on the 4G63 without the optoisolator on the cam input (on the MS2). The optoisolator fixed the problem every single time.

Only other thing I can think of is bad harness wiring. I'm gonna implement the circuit and see if my sync loss goes away.

Tried implementing the circuit, no responce back, hopefully I didn't kill it but will see.

For the ones running the 5v pull up only do you also have a cap mod on the ms2 board?

no. the cap is a MSI_hires thing

just the crank input through the opto circuit and the cam straight to JS10 with a 470ohm pullup to 5v.


built at least 20 that way, never a sync issue. Including two MS3x's I did in the last two weeks.

Built at least 10 that way, all had syncing issues (4-5 within a 30 minute drive).

I blame the lack of The Force.


This also includes my own personal MS2 and MS3x

this, every drive few minutes in the car will lose connection to the ecu~
I don't allways log code 38 sometimes its a drop out of all stuff on my logs, buts it noteicable and annoying. At higher power levels its getting annoying as now it started showing up as error 38.

brain can I see a pic of how your ms2 pcb v3 board mods are laid out for cas pull in and spark out?

That is racist.

CRAP I think I killed the ms2 chip, pissed. Testing to figure out.

Looks like I fried my 5 volt voltage regulator.

(Posting from my phone.)

You're doing it wrongg

my 5volt voltage regulator was bad, also my cap at F1 is bad as well, have to wait to replace it as well, just glad I may have a chance of getting back up and running.

F1 is not a cap, it is a polyfuse - a fuse that stops any more flow over 0.55A.

Yeah, I got a two of those poly fuses from diyautotune, installed a new one, seems same thing

There must be a short somewhere, maybe one of the diodes got killed, but they all check out on the power circuit.
I purchased the LM7805c and put it in place of the one sent with the kit by diyautotune. that worked to get 5v going, but still polyfuse is hot and doing its job by breaking the circuit.

I checked all the diodes on the power circuit, all check fine. Anyone have another idea of which part maybe causing a short? Maybe a transistor got fried internally and is stuck with pins connected?

Someone measure resistantce at U4 between 3 to 5, 3 to 6, 3 to 7 and let me know what numbers you get?
no power of course.