MS2 cranking PW curve?
 

Regardless of the injectors you're running, surely everyone who has their settings nailed at all temp ranges will have the same looking curve or very similar.

I'd be interested in seeing peoples curves and also what prime pulse figures you guys are running. My hot-start is 100% OEM and although I have no issues with cold starting (even at 0*C) it can sometimes take a little longer to fire up.

I'm using a prime pulse figure of 1ms for all temp ranges. Is anyone using upwards of 1ms as the temps drop off?

Here are my settings, good for 0-96*C starts but starts more quickly when hot. (425cc injectors)

Attachment 192579

The problem is 100% syncing and sequential. When the engine is hot, its turning faster, and therefor syncs faster. It takes 3-4 engine turns to sync.

Dunno if this is relevant, but mine takes a lot longer to catch when hot, and when it does it's weak till the idle valve icks in and raises the revs. It's like it's on the cusp of starting, so you keey the starter engaged, but as soon as you 'give up' the car does actually start.

As it does always start I've never been arsed to fix it.

I have asked in the past for batch fire when starting to improve the sync - and thus starting - time but didn't get much of a response.

aah that makes sense. It also explains why my logs show cranking events without the injectors firing for about a second.

FWIW, I have a similar issue to you Rich, but when cold. The engine starts every single time when cold but does run lumpy after it catches at around 700rpm and then the idle valve kicks in a second later and the revs are pulled up.

Issue #2: Notice - when cold - how much % PWM duty you need to sustain your idle. Ie you may need 38% to get 1300rpm at 20C. Go to PWM Idle cranking duty, and set the cranking duty 2-3% higher than the duty you need to retain your RPM. If yu need 38% to retain 1300rpm at 20C, set the cranking duty at 20C to 40-41%C.

Good stuff Reverant.

I'm just going through the extraEFI idle page too.