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-   -   Ms2 (Starts now, just trying to make it run right.) (https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquirt-18/ms2-starts-now-just-trying-make-run-right-58286/)

angrytoaster 06-05-2011 10:11 PM

Ms2 (Starts now, just trying to make it run right.)
 
Car 1999 miata
Megasquirt2 from brain


Spliced in the 5/32" vaccum line to the back of tb, ran to ms, plugged into old ecu and tried to start car. As I understand(or maybe I don't) the ait sensor isn't crucial for me to just start the car, correct?

Car cranks and cranks but won't start. Will installing the ait fix this? Also, how in the hell do I secure the ait in my 99? Do I lop off the old one, wire the diy up and shove it into the rubber grommet?

Any help greatly appreciated.

John

Braineack 06-06-2011 08:41 AM

Have you attached it to your laptop and checked all the gauge readings within the software? it is important to make sure the MS is reading the cam/crank sensors, so you know it's doing its job. Then we can figure out why it's not running with it.

If you're not going to be using the GM AIT at the moment, the AIT calibration shoul dbe set to that of the stock AIT sensor...directions are in my install sheet.

angrytoaster 06-06-2011 11:22 AM


Originally Posted by Braineack (Post 734912)
Have you attached it to your laptop and checked all the gauge readings within the software? it is important to make sure the MS is reading the cam/crank sensors, so you know it's doing its job. Then we can figure out why it's not running with it.

If you're not going to be using the GM AIT at the moment, the AIT calibration shoul dbe set to that of the stock AIT sensor...directions are in my install sheet.

I'm looking at the install .PDF from boosted miata that you sent me but it only includes the gm iat configuration, what am I missing?

angrytoaster 06-06-2011 11:36 AM

Nvm I found it. If anybody else encounters this here's the numbers




"for the stock iat, use e following table with a bias resistor setting of 2490 ohms"

Temp. F/c. Resistance in ohms

-4/-20. 16150
104/40. 1150
176/80. 330


Sorry for being a pain.

John

angrytoaster 06-06-2011 12:31 PM

Update : ait deal configured and software installed. Car will start under throttle , run rough and idle out. Does this mean I have to dick with my afr table and timing? Borrowing a timing light as we speak.

Braineack 06-06-2011 12:42 PM

yeah might need to add in fuel., sounds like its not enough to keep it running.

definitely need a timing light once you can get a stable idle.

angrytoaster 06-06-2011 01:26 PM

1 Attachment(s)
So, I dont know if this is something that would help but I figured I might try to post this anyway. This is my AFR and FUEL table pre-messing with it. I tried to up them all by 5-10 as suggested by the pdf file. Is it just me or are these absolutely crazy compared to what is posted on the pdf, or maybe I am just not grasping the concept.


tl;dr what can I do to this table to get the thing to idle correctly.

Lets do this, I have the next four days off and a world of patience(I hope)

Braineack 06-06-2011 01:43 PM

that's how the map looks right now? that's not right. I can resend a map to load when I get home.

double check the spark map looks normal.

right now you can download and export the fuel map from diyautotune.com's diypnp 99-00 basemap and load that into yours (don't load the entire msq). and see how that treats you. Idle cells should be in the 30s like that random 100Kpa row...it looks like maybe your map was vicitm of bad copy and pasting?

http://www.diyautotune.com/diypnp/ap...00-18bp-mt.zip

angrytoaster 06-06-2011 02:06 PM

excuse my msq ignorance, but how does one just load the basemap without loading the entire msq? I downloaded it and see a lot of files but am not sure how to go about just loading the afr or fuel tables. Could you clarify that a bit if possible?

Braineack 06-06-2011 02:26 PM

you open that msq in TS in offline mode. open up the VE table and click the first green arrow, should be export table. This will sk you to save a file to your desktop and allow it.


then close TS and reopen it and connect back to your MS. (if you failed to go to offline mode it will ask it you want to send changes from your project to controller, say no). then open your VE fuel table and click the second green arrow, this will prompt you to import a file, choose the one you just saved.

angrytoaster 06-06-2011 02:37 PM

Thank you! I just did the first half and see what you're getting out. Going down to the car in a couple of minutes and will let you know how it turns out.


John

angrytoaster 06-06-2011 03:28 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Just loaded it. Still no go. I took a basemap off of DIYautotunes website for the 99-00 miata and when I tried to up it I received this error message

Braineack 06-06-2011 03:30 PM

that's fine, but you didn't follow direction like I asked. I didn't want you to burn the entire basemap, only take from it the fuel map.


This isn't a huge deal, but the main cooling fan will not operate because I wire it to WLED instead of PAO like that basemap uses.

angrytoaster 06-06-2011 03:36 PM


Originally Posted by Braineack (Post 735080)
that's fine, but you didn't follow direction like I asked. I didn't want you to burn the entire basemap, only take from it the fuel map.


This isn't a huge deal, but the main cooling fan will not operate because I wire it to WLED instead of PAO like that basemap uses.

.

I first tried just burning the fuel map from what you linked me to, however that did not really change much. It even sputtered less than from the basemap that you had originally loaded. What i am posting a screencap of was my second try
. Any ideas?

EDIT: So I loaded the one you linked above that you said will not run the cooling fan and the car idled terribly at about 700rpm. Now my questions is, how do I recover the base map that was loaded onto here and try to apply the settings of DIY's to my map that will run the cooling fan and go from there.

angrytoaster 06-06-2011 10:21 PM

UPDATE: Dicked with it some more. Slowly becoming a little more comfortable with the software.

I adjusted the timing. One question though- my pulley has two notches, which do I use? I used the one on the right as the left seemed less prominant. Regardless after that the car ran a little bit better.


My problem currently is that after anything over 2k rpms the car droops to a 500 idle and stays there. Ideas?

Techsalvager 06-07-2011 01:58 AM

anytime you mess with it log all sessions.

angrytoaster 06-07-2011 01:58 AM

So I went out to mess with it a little more and see if I could get any more good news out of it.


It overheated. But Im hoping this is just because im not using the basemap that brain is going to send me that will run the main fans. So, I have a question

- my AFR guage, when i turned it on was reading crazy like, 16.9+ under any sort of load, all the way into red numbers, is this possibly another cause of my overheating?

I wish there were some literature I could get my hands on that would explain some of these things functionality. Hopefully one of you guys will post here.

My main concern is the overheating. My temp guage went crazy and I shut it down to let it cool off. Do you guys think this is only because I was not using brains base map, or is there something else stupid that I am potentially doing? What information about my map could I post to assist somebody in diagnosing whats wrong?

Any help at all is appreciated. I have til thursday to crack on this thing and then its back to work.

angrytoaster 06-07-2011 02:00 AM


Originally Posted by Techsalvager (Post 735296)
anytime you mess with it log all sessions.

How do I log a session? Diagnostics > start? It cant be as easy as that...can it?

Techsalvager 06-07-2011 02:08 AM

data logging > start

angrytoaster 06-07-2011 02:16 AM


Originally Posted by Techsalvager (Post 735299)
data logging > start



Much appreciated. This logs my entire session? I am assuming I can just post this up and then get feedback on my inputs correct?

I cant wait to dick around with this thing more tomorrow. Even though Ive been failboating it all day it was nice to actually make the car run and idle.


John

Braineack 06-07-2011 07:34 AM

how long was it idleing?

under advanced > output settings.

copy what is in pa0 to wled.

so on. 0 | 1 for triggers. coolant > 200. 10 for hysteria.

angrytoaster 06-07-2011 03:17 PM


Originally Posted by Braineack (Post 735323)
how long was it idleing?

under advanced > output settings.

copy what is in pa0 to wled.

so on. 0 | 1 for triggers. coolant > 200. 10 for hysteria.


It was idling for probably a good thirty or fourty minutes


In my output settings the PA0 is coolent > 175, hysteresis 5.0, power on values 0|1, should I then copy this all over to the warmup LED and disable the PA0, or am I to use the figures you gave me of 200 and 10 in the WLED field.

Do you think this is why it overheated, or is it possible I fuckered something else up to cause same result? Im going to get down there and try to take some footage of what happens when it stops raining so hard.

John

Braineack 06-07-2011 03:26 PM

no, that is why.

angrytoaster 06-07-2011 03:55 PM

Thanks, could you clarify what exactly I am to do with the values. You told me to copy\paste them over but the values that you gave me are different than what I have. Do I use yours or do I recycle the ones in pa0. Also, do I disable pa0 or leave it enabled?

John

Braineack 06-07-2011 04:37 PM

the trigger values 0 | 1 mean it's normally off and you have to do something to activate.

your values are coolant temp > XXX and then turn of below YYY.

I like to use 200 on and 190 off ( so 10 for hysteria)

angrytoaster 06-07-2011 05:48 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Cooling fans seemed to have turned on after I made the change. Thanks. Heres my datalog (I think). Is there any required throttle or behavior I should be doing when making a datalog? Anyway heres what I took.

Clos561 06-08-2011 11:41 AM


Originally Posted by angrytoaster (Post 735227)
UPDATE: Dicked with it some more. Slowly becoming a little more comfortable with the software.

I adjusted the timing. One question though- my pulley has two notches, which do I use? I used the one on the right as the left seemed less prominant. Regardless after that the car ran a little bit better.


My problem currently is that after anything over 2k rpms the car droops to a 500 idle and stays there. Ideas?

brain helped me with this one also when i did mine.


Use a socket and turn your crank pulley so the right notch lines up with TDC and the left one is on 10 degree. mark the far right notch with white out. use that as reference to get your timing to match 10 when you are using fixed.

Braineack 06-08-2011 11:44 AM

is that what you determined? When both marks line up to 10 and T respectively, the #1 piston was at TDC?

angrytoaster 06-08-2011 10:50 PM

So....I uninstalled the old ecu and bolted the MS in so I could finally go for a drive. I forgot to click stop on the datalog so I wasnt able to salvage anything, but one thing I did notice is that the car no longer limits the revs at slightly past 7k. Also, its missing a whole bunch of bawls but i am attributing that to my novice tuning properties. So what gives with the no rev limiter? I checked my variables and as far as I can tell theyre kosher.

angrytoaster 06-09-2011 08:23 PM


Originally Posted by angrytoaster (Post 734799)
Car 1999 miata
Megasquirt2 from brain


Spliced in the 5/32" vaccum line to the back of tb, ran to ms, plugged into old ecu and tried to start car. As I understand(or maybe I don't) the ait sensor isn't crucial for me to just start the car, correct?

Car cranks and cranks but won't start. Will installing the ait fix this? Also, how in the hell do I secure the ait in my 99? Do I lop off the old one, wire the diy up and shove it into the rubber grommet?

Any help greatly appreciated.

John



So, I have been able to get the car running slightly decent. I read up some articles on tunerstudio in conjunction with MS. Heres a link http://www.megamanual.com/begintuning.htm

I know its very basic but maybe somebody besides me can also benefit from it. I liked the article for his tables and charts that help explain what youre actually looking at when you open TS. The AFR table with designated examples of what the car is actually doing at that point helped me adjust some of my own on my table. I still am reading about fuel, and have no idea what to do with my fuel table, so I am semi recycling the one provided by DIYauto-tune still with my proper fan configs in.

I took it out for a run last night and got a data log thats not on this computer. Would anybody here be willing to look at it, or know what to look for, in order to give me some suggestions about what I am doing right\wrong?

I have another question too, actually. How do the red\blue\black numbers on the fuel table\afr table relate to what is actually happening in regard to tuning. What I am asking is, I notice that after driving the car the numbers themselves will be either black blue or red, and I am wondering if this is telling me to change something or if its just a product of things I have changed.

angrytoaster 06-10-2011 11:31 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Posting a datalog and pictures of my afr\fuel tables here to see if you guys could let me know if I am going in the right direction. If not,any nudges definitely appreciated. Sorry in advance for my noobdom, or if i am not seeing some of the obvious flaws in my table. I promise i have been reading.



EDIT: I just realized my datalogs exceed 1mb. This is the only smaller one I have.


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