MS2 Tuning Help! Wont idle, hard cold start, no tach, fuel pump runs all time time.
 

Hey boys and girls. This car has been sitting since about 2012 when I parked it and went back to school. Now I've graduated and want to finish it and drive it before I start working a new job :)
I'm piecing this car together from my 4 cars worth of crap that I collected over years of owning in Miatas. I was in school and havn't looked at it in years. I was an new with MS2 then, I'm full on idiot now. I'm in WAY over my head.

Car:

• Rev Enhanced MS2 (he still around?)
• 1990 Miata
• 1.8 Engine
• 99 Head
• NA Manifold
• 1.8 Throttle Body
• 1.8 Coils 94/95
• Sequential Injection
• LC1 Wideband
• Speed Density - Temp Sensor is threaded in bottom of intake manifold, AFM is there for looks and I will delete it soon.
• Moss MP62 with Track Dog Intercooler

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9bfed8404a.jpgMiata Engine!


Tune:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By...ktZMGlfbndFNEE

Logs:

• Cold Start: Surprisingly, it started up right away this time. Usually the engine cranks and sputters. It does not want to idle and died right away, and was hard to start again, which is the way it is usually on the first start.
  • https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By...3ZsbGxHWmxWUEU
• Warmup: I let the engine warm up until the fans cycled. I ran VE Analyze Live during this time and did some revs.
  • https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By...jRzcVdqbFNEbTg
• Warm Start: Starts up but still will not idle. I have to catch it. Lost communication due to my sloppy USB port on my Surface Pro.
  • https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By...Ho0UTVwYUM2LXM

Questions:

1. How do I get my tach to work? I've tried the resister between B+ and IG- with and without a wire connecting the 1.8 coils to the factory 1990 tach via the blk/white at the 94/95 coil to the yel/blu at the cluster as per my wiring diagram and STILL no tach!
2. What do I need to do to make this thing idle and start better?
3. How is the tune in general?
4. Anyone in Sacramento area (or bay area) want to take a look and mess with it? Any shops anyone would recommend when I get some money to tune?

I drove it today. All the same problems. Cold starts like an cold old diesel tractor, fuel pump runs all the time, no tach, wont idle (hard to catch), and need a tune.

I ran VE Analyze Live which made some changes.

Start and Warmup then drive to gas station - filled with 91 octane Shell
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By...XhhWDF1RE1SaUU

Drive to buddies house down the road:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By...VdWRXJrdnR5eGM

Drive back to shop:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By...XlJMF9mTE5QRm8

Current tune:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By...U5uZlhocEZqM3M

Nothing? Here is some driving files attached in case google drive makes someone nervous.

Anyone in Sacramento or any shops anyone can recommend if this cant get straightened out here?

looked at your tune. replied to your pm. haven't looked at logs yet. I'll be back in town next sat

1. the ignitor usually drives the tach, could be damaged, but then swapping on 94/95 coils could also be to blame.
2. tune.
3. from the read of it, not well.
4. 18psi.

Hey Guys. Didn't want to start a new thread. I'm back to working on this again. First problem to solve isn't the tach or any "small" stuff. It's the WBO2 and a smog check.

Problem at hand. Bouncy AFRs. If I can get the AFRs/WBO2 under control I think that will solve a lot of the issues I'm having.

Attached MSQ and Datalog. You;ll see at idle it seems fine then when I rev the engine it swings AFRs all over the place. I just did a free air calibration with the sensor in the car.. The car has been off for a week or so.

The plan to fix it is to remove the WBO2, do a free air, and check out it's config in LogWorks. I have an AEM UEGO standing by to go in if that doesn't work. For today and tomorrow I have access to a 5-gas. Should the WB02 and the 5-gas agree on O2%? Even if the 5-gas is sampling after the cat, and the WBO2 is before the cat?

Do you see anything obvious that I should fix? Why is it doing this? It's pretty intermittent. Sometimes it's fine, and sometimes it's not. More often not.
Datalog:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lZA...ew?usp=sharing

MSQ
https://drive.google.com/file/d/16sm...ew?usp=sharing

Bah... fixed nothing. Same problem.

Has VE Live properly hit all the cells? I see some big jumps in your VE table.

Ok, I see a few things that could be problematic;
- Overrun fuel cut starts @1400 RPM when MAP <28kPa and CLT > 105.8

• You might want to turn off CL Idle until you can start the car successfully and idle w/o issues
• Ditto for EGO control until you can run (semi-) successfully on the VE table
• Are you REALLY using Fuel Table Switching?
• Did you calibrate your MAP sensor?
• Do you REALLY need that much Time-based AE?
• Your car actually starts w/ a 1* cranking advance?

Added; I never could get the LC-1 to work consistently. I have no experience with the UEGO but anything is better than the LC-1 IMHO.

Thanks. I'll look into that when I work on the car again. It will be a month or so before I'm back. I wonder if letting it sit for long periods of time is corrupting things. It wasn't doing this when I parked it a year ago.

I'll look into all you suggested and possibly redo the powers and grounds in a month or so.