Red traces in the graph are errors. The crank/cam signals are blue/green.

Tested continuity between the cam output signal wire at the connector, and the ECU connector pin, that is good. Power and ground are good. The two raised sections on the cam that run the sensor signal are intact.

Then tested the CAM output signal to the ECU, by waiving a screw-driver tip in front of the trigger. It's reading 4.7X volts. I also swapped in another sensor to check, still the same.




So I have the cam input set at "MS3 cam in", continuity between the sensor and the harness, output signal being created, power and ground.

What am I missing in this equation? I can't imagine there's an air gap on the cam sensor, it just bolts to the valve cover, and is sitting flush.

:confused:

I decided to take wiring out of the equation.

With known good 12v power and ground, I apply each to the pins on the sensor.

When hooked up to the multimeter, the center signal pin shows static output at 10.XX volts. Waving a metal screwdriver in front of the sensor changes nothing.

The basemap came with the cam port set to JS10, so change it back to JS10.

JS10 selected.


Here's a log. Should I try jumping the cam sensor output signal directly into the factory connect? Perhaps I have a voltage drop issue. Cam signal still red.

The vvtunner instructions have a pin out of the cam and cranks sensor if you can't figure out which wire is which.

I know u don't have vvtunner box juts thought the pin out might help you.

I found the yellow/blue wire on the factory ECU connector. That, and an ECU pinout, are what I'm using.

Cam signal is now in and ok.

However, on that log, it appears you have an issue with the crank signal, on the latter half of the log. I can't tell but if you have a somewhat weak battery, that could be it.

Can you grab a longer log?

Yes, the battery is injured. 11.7X volts. I have it on the charger, I'll get my next log with multiple cranks. I'll let the battery charger 12volt start keep the voltage up.

Log, 2 long cranks. Tach on dash is now quivering while cranking.

Popped the breaker for the battery charger halfway through the second crank, so voltage should drop there.

What's the realistic time I can crank the car without overheating the starter? I usually got for 5 clock seconds or so on OEM setup cars when I'm looking at a no-start.

The 10 seconds for OEM cars is not a protection for the starter, it's more a protection for the oil and cat in case the problem is the with the coils. I usually ask for a 10 sec log to diagnose cranking issues.

Here's a 10second crank.

A 143-byte log probably doesn't contain much data.

My bad, try this one

Looks like a perfect log this time.

Now try to fire the coils in the test mode.

I selected "output test mode - inj/spk".

I enabled test mode, selected coil A (1 and 4 trigger I believe), output interval 199ms, rpm 600, coil testing mode "one", Dwell set at 5ms.

Number 1 wire (powered by 1/4 coil) has a plug in it, grounded on stainless racing beat header.

Tried on "coil" A/B/C/D. No spark output. Burn page 1 failed - displays iff I hit "burn".

Trigger wire in the center of the 1/4 coil reads 0.2volts during cranking.

EDIT: On the plug itself, 12volts is the top pin, then signal, ground at the base.

Okay, new info.



I hooked up the 94 coil pack into the stock wiring, attached a plug wire, and test-mode gives me spark.


So, I then wired the 01+ coil-on-plugs into said stock wiring, test mode does not trigger spark. I tried both coils (powered via the 1/4 wiring), still no spark.




Is it reasonable to believe that I have two dead coils? Spark outputs through stock coil, wire in COPs, no spark.



When looking from the drivers side at the engine bay, the top plug in the COP connector is 12volts, then signal, then ground.

I swapped in another set of 01+ coils.


In test mode, I can send signal spark, and my multimeter picks up the change in voltage at the center wire in the coil plug. No spark output though.