MS3X Assembly and Testing: short on Q9 and Q12
 

Getting less than required 300 Ohms, guide says replace mica insulators, just wondering if that's it or do I have to check anything else?

why are you even installing them? Don't waste time installing components you wont use.

I wasn't aware I didn't need them. Just following the assembly guide. Anything else I can do without?

http://westfieldmx5.devocht.com/

Follow MS3 build manual

Skip sticking the stock connector in the case.

I never came across this in searching for assembly guides, why is this so different from the guide from msextra? Am I going to have to remove a bunch of components that i already installed?

It's different because it only uses the components that are necessary for a Miata with MS3+MS3x. The fact that you have MS3x means you have a bunch of pre-made circuits and you don't need a lot of the circuits that you are building on the main board. If you already have installed more components that this guide has in it, leave them there, they just won't be doing anything.

Use the guide to populate the main board, and use it for the specifics on crank input jumpers and pot tuning. Don't use it for the connector modification.

The connector modification being the part towards the bottom of the page where they cut the MS3X card and attached the jawnpiece to the heat sink, correct?

I like installing the oem ecu connector inside the megasquirt case for a tidy install (in my opinion).
A lot of people prefer building the db37 wiring loom for some reason.

Its a clean install. But if you want to add anything inside the case it can get really crowded really fast.

I guess I shouldn't say to outright ignore it, but think about the pros and cons before you do it.

Mine is installed in the case, I personally hate it because it makes it hard to add any new mods or features.

What kind if components do you guys add on that make it crowded? Right now I just want good management for daily and autocross, maybe some street stuff if a stock GT or something gets cocky and i push the fun button on my EBC.

In your case, you likely wouldn't add anything, other than the standard knock module or real time clock, if you so desired.

You can package some of the jbperf boards (such as the TinyIOX) inside the case, to gain digital wideband input, extra analog/digital inputs/outputs, or a CAN-EGT for thermocouple inputs. Before the MS3 code could handle alternator control, people packaged a Westfield alternator controller inside the case.

Ah okay so it's just more stuff you can change without having to reprogram it with a laptop? The wideband is one thing I'm going to prioritize, I'm learning this stuff as I go so i ask for patience. Do I have to wire extra components to hook up a wideband or is that just for additional control?

you have to cut the daurghterboard, cut the case, desolder the db37 off the expander, stuff all those wires from the mainboard and expander inside the case (at least 25), mount the connector, and still have to basically run wires straight out of the case if you have any extra i/o's. I still just prefer the old patch cable. No custom work, same amount of soldering to the DB37s and connector, and the units are not application specific at that point -- I build the same unit for all my 90-05 applications* Upgrading and making wiring changes is much easier. IMHO, it seems like more work -- I do like the integrated harness, don't get me wrong, and I've been toying with the idea of doing something different -- but I'm too lazy.





*I add extra 12v points to NB units.

This is another great point. If you ever part the car out, upgrade ECU's, etc, having a universal Megasquirt is a lot easier to sell.

I'm gonna be honest, if i get further into this MS3X build and don't feel confident, would you be willing to take it and just check for me/make sure it's not going to catch fire or make my car explode? I understand you're busy with the other assemblies, but I'd be willing to pay what you want to ensure I have a working ECU. :x: