Taifighter

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys. I just added the DIYAutotune EBC to my car yesterday. I'm attempting to test it out and make sure it works before turning it on in TunerStudio.

It doesn't work due to what I believe is a bad ground when ran thru MegaSquirt.

I wired and plumbed everything according to the manual/Brain's doc I got with my MS3/forum documentation. I am sure the plumbing is correct, I've tested it with the blow thru method both with the power off and with the power running. You can see the difference as to where the air flows when the conrtoller is grounded or not grounded.

My MS3 did not have a lead off of the center connector for the boost control, the unused wires in the center connector were labeled as direct injection, so I clipped the boost control wire from the other side of the central connector and ran my signal wire from the boost controller directly to the harness.

Here's my issue:

Car off-
0 volts anywhere, regardless of ground location. I can blow thru either side of the controller and air comes out the other side of the plumbed route, not the unused port.

Key on-
When I run my multimeter to the blue switched power plug and a chassis ground, I show 11.84v and the box will click on/off as the wire is grounded/removed from ground. (This is how I tested the plumbing with the blow thru method. When it kicks on, you can blow thru the wastegate connection and air is let out of the unused port on the other side of the controller). When I blow thru the wastegate plumbing, air only comes out of the unused port.

When I run my ground thru the signal lead to MS (which should also act as a ground) I show 8.41 and the box no clicky.

Car running-
Same as above, voltages increase to 14.30 when grounded to chassis, and 9.77 when grounded thru MS boost control lead off of the harness. Again, when I blow thru the wastegate side, air comes out of the unused port only.

Based on the difference between grounding to chassis and grounding to MS, I think when the signal wire is connected to MS it is not grounded well enough to click the controller on. If I had a bad ground in the ecu, wouldn't I see other symptoms in every day use of the car?

As always, any input is appreciated.

Taifighter

iTrader: (1)

I've retread this thread: https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...g-60119/page3/ a bunch in the past 24 hours. Would I not see the same ground going thru the MS as I would a direct chassis ground? Is it supposed to be that way? Am I questioning this stuff unnecessarily and in fact it should work that way? Maybe it's fully functional and I'm good to go?

Taifighter

iTrader: (1)

3. Confirm solenoid action as controlled by MS. In "Boost Control" dialogue, set "0" in "Closed Loop kPa Limit" to force open loop control. In "Boost Duty Targets" dialogue, fill all cells with 100. Turn ignition swith to "ON" and listen for click. When energized, confirm you can't blow through. Now fill all cells with 0. Listen for click and confirm you can blow through.

I tried this and it didn't work.

But I inverted it and the valve closed and I got a reading on the multimeter of just over 11, and when I blew through it, air came out of the unused port. So it works. It's just settings from this point.

Thanks Hornetball for the info in the other thread. But why does mine only work when the inverted output is on, and switching from 100 to 0 and back in the Duty Table not get me any changes?

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

That other thread was MS1, not sure if your settings are similar. MS3 may have a different method for going between open loop (which uses the DC table) and closed loop (which uses the target boost table).

In open loop, there are two ways that people set this up. Some set it up so 100% duty cycle closes the valve and some the opposite -- that's just a personal preference. The important part is that with the solenoid deactivated, you should default to normal wastegate operation as a failsafe.

The wire on the MS should go to "near" chassis ground to operate the solenoid. I say "near," because you still have to jump a PN junction in a transistor, so it should be something like 0.2 to 0.6VDC away from true chassis ground. Still, more than enough to activate the solenoid.

That said, I'm not exactly clear what your issue is right now. ??

Taifighter

iTrader: (1)

Haha, there's no issue any more. It works! I was trying to check something that was 100% operational. I guess MS varies the ground (not sure if that's the right verbiage) so there was no way to really test it until I got it out on the road. I'm now at my same safe boost level but that **** is instantly there. Sweet.

Mods can delete this thread.

tl;dr- everything works and its awesome