Wino

I'm pretty excited. My 96 D Prepared project with 01 engine on a highly modified harness started right up. The rewired NB ECU alternator control is working perfectly thanks to information gleaned from various threads here.
It died shortly after start, but after some adjusting on the Skunk2 Idle control valve it stayed running. Base timing was set successfully and switched back to table. LC2 wideband calibrated before start.
So, a couple of things concern me.
1-My IAC valve is humming/droning like a bitch with ignition on and engine off.
2- My idle AFR is running in the 11.5 to 12 range, 17 to 18 deg advanced, MAP in the 29-30KPa range. This is while idling around 980rpm and 170 engine temp. Cause for major concern? I figure the main problem is the Skunk2 TB running on base MAP and I have work to do.
I was freezing my *** off in the garage and had to pack it in for the day.
I'm a total noob at this. I'll admit I know less than nothing, so any insight would be helpful.
Here's a shot of the install. I still have a lot of wiring cleanup to do, but one milestone complete feeling pretty good.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

You need to tune fuel in the idle cells to get it to not be that rich when warm. I would suggest tuning those fuel cells by hand, then setting autotune to not tune there so it does not mess them up.

Wino

Thanks shuiend. After considerable time reading posts here and reading the Tuner Studio help files, I warmed the engine up to normal operating temperature yesterday and tried adjusting the values in the idle VE table to lean out the idle. I saw no significant change in AFR regardless of what I did to the idle table values. I even tried some pretty radical changes to see if there was an effect, nothing. I’m definitely fully warmed up and out of the WUE phase. I turned up my idle under % throttle value temporarily to make sure TPS wasn’t an issue preventing the table from going into effect.
I'm on the 01-05 PnP base map and the only changes I've made are to set base timing and sensor calibrations. I also calibrated TPS. The O2 sensor is selected to the Innovative LC-2 settings and was calibrated in fresh air before the first start.
Under slight throttle it leans out. It also comes back to idle nicely after blipping the throttle. Unfortunately I can’t drive it yet to get some data, so I’m left screwing with the idle for now. Plus the car is completely illegal for street use and obviously so at a casual glance. What concerns me a bit is that I would expect my idle to be lean on the PnP base. My volumetric efficiency should be better than stock since I have a 2.75” short intake going to a Skunk2 TB and a RB header flowing through a fairly open exhaust with no cat.
Being a project car targeted to be ready for the 2017 autocross season, I have some time to work through my newb issues. It’ll probably be next week before I get around to starting it up again.

boileralum

iTrader: (8)

You say DP, and yet the windshield is still there...

Wino

The saws-all will be coming out soon
That and door gutting are next up. I want to do all that outside to keep the dust down in my garage and the damn rain won't stop.
Plus, I'll want to see the look on my neighbors faces when I chop off the windshield in the driveway. I'm hoping to send it out to the cage builder in early summer.

Wino

So, I figured out why my idle VE table changes weren't going into effect. "Go to idle when load is above %" was set at 35 in the base map and i'm idling at 29 to 30.
After fixing that I then used some screens that Brain posted in other threads as a starting point for the various start up and warm up settings. The car started and warmed up very nicely. With some adjustment to the Idle VE table I'm idling at 14.3-14.5 and the car drops back into idle nicely after rev. I'm pretty happy with it as a good starting point. I'm going to stay open loop only on idle. I'm not sure of the value on an autocross only car. All the power tuning will be done professionally on the dyno, hopefully this summer.