Mikelly

You know I do...

Mikelly

So it's interesting. The Uego was looking for volts and VE wouldn't launch the auto tune function because the WB was essentially "off". Once Scott corrected that, we were able to take a base map and drive, change, drive, change. My driving, him making changes. Was very cool. The car is now 110% drivable.

We did have an issue where the car overheated. There was apparently an airpocket and our sitting behind other cars idling for a long period after several long pulls brought it to the surface. We were able to get back to Scott's place and let it cool off, then top it off. Funny thing is, I sat in nearly 2 hours of stop and go traffic, mixed with some open flowing spirts and never had an issue going home.

BRAINEACK DA MAN.

Def. want to wire in the VTPS. Def. thinking about bigger injectors and rising rate regulator. Def. don't want to impact my ful economy of drivability... So I'll probably do the first, not so sure about the other two.

Mike

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Yeah the Uego input is odd. there's a fix, I'll find it for you and send. That way the MS and gauge can match 100%.

Tps will make the throttle inputs much smoother, where you can totally get rid of the slight lean spike/delay.

IF you go bigger injectors, you dont need the rising rate.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

I have that same issue with my UEGO. Perhaps can get that in one of the stickies somewhere?

So glad the car is running well! I was worried there for a while.

You also better update that other thread with details on that Z car...

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I think it IS in the stickies.

Mikelly

UEGO info is here: https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...t-table-28005/

Based on reading that thread, I would recommend a different wideband. Not worth the added headache, in my opinion.

You can find all the info on the Datsun on hybridz.org in the members projects category. I use the same user name there. About 36 pages or build and pics. It's been a 10 year build.

Mikelly

By the way, I went in and made the adjustments as desrcibed in the sticky I linked and it worked. Only issue is I wish I'd duplicated the project before hand so I could compare our tuning session figures to the file after the change. Like a dumby I "accepted" the file on the laptop instead of the file on the ECU.

Anyway, the UEGO is reading properly now and allows the autotune function to work now, reading AFR instead of volts!
Mike

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

I've seen that particular sticky. The above fix is for an MSPNP but I haz a DIYPNP, plus its not the same issue. The voltage output thing is pretty well documented. Regardless, I have an LC-1 and a VEI gauge I need to install, I just haven't gotten around to it yet.

Back on the farm... I AM glad you guys got the car running! Any plans to change the injectors? A set of RX8 yellows would probably work well, and let you run quite a bit more boost

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

then what's your issue? you can calibrate your AFR input to anything you want on-the-fly.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

The offset issue, gauge and TS don't match. There are a couple threads about it but unless I want to rewrite a custom wideband profile, there does not seem to be much I can do to solve it.

I've never understood why TunerStudio does not have a profile for the 30-4100 UEGO. I'm using the "AEM Linear AEM-30-42xx" profile as was recommended for my 4100, but its not "correct" and the "AEM Linear AEM-30-2310" is WAY different.

Edit: Poking around on the web, I can't find any 30-42xx series widebands anyware to compare the table to. I'll keep looking though

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I even have the offset on my LC1, what's your point?

I have to use .23v = 7.35:1 and 5v = 22.39:1 instead of 0-5v. it took me about 45 seconds to come up with that number and match the gauge.


all you need to do it put in 0.0-4.25v = 10-18.50 AFR.

if the gauge doesn't match, bring up the lower voltage number until it does. it shouldn't take you more than 2 minutes.


I dont actually even think there's a 30-42xx Uego. im pretty sure it's setup for the scale above.

Mikelly

Wouldn't you know, my alternator died yesterday? Few days back the lights were looking really weak (About two days before we tuned it) so I knew that the electrical system was not in the best of health... Oh well.. Battery holds 12.5 volts with no issues not running, but drains down to 10.2 and lower running. Sounds like the regulator is dead. Got one on order.

Mike

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

need a spare? im pretty sure I have one in a box somewhere in my basement that I got from TurboTim. When my reg. failed it was allowing voltage spikes that my electronics didnt enjoy.

Mikelly

Crap. I just ordered one yesterday thru autozone, and the wife is picking it up on the way home. I shoulda posted this yesterday when I found it dying.

Thanks for the offer man!

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

its alright.

bearda

Was that the cause of the electrical gremlin you were chasing for a while?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

still am.

Mikelly

Ran out of time this evening. Managed to get the old one off, the new one on and bolted in. Manged to get the electric fan back in place, but need to finish bolting it up and then install the plumbing, top off the radiator, and check everything out.

Mike

Mikelly

Big thanks again to Scott for sending me the tune after I dorked the settings up. I managed to get it dialed in today and the car is running great. Only issue I have now is cold morning surging on startup. Once it warms up, she's fine. I'll data log that and resolve it over time.

So the game plan for the next few months is to just drive the car and get the Datsun Track car's motor transplant done. We're swapping from an old school chevy V8 to an LS1 platform and that'll eat up much of my fun money in the coming months. Maybe by spring I'll have become sufficiently bored enough with the setup in the miata that I'll upgrade injectors and FPR. We'll see...

Few pics I took today of the Miata when I was out dialing it in:





Mike

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

elaborate on surging