The Empty Guy

Converting from stock ECU to Megasquirt PNP2. I don't have a IAT but still have the MAF, wanting to do one thing at a time. I do have a WB though.

How come Pulse Width 3 and 4 don't have any value? This would be the fuel injector, correct? I'm trying to figure out why the car is running so damn rich and has unburt fuel. I did not have an issue before with the stock ECU.

Also, holy **** Tuner Studio is fun, but a lot of research for me since a lot of this is new vocab. I've been searching and working on trying to get the AFRs down for the past three or four days on my own, so now coming to the brains for some help some tips in the right direction would be appreciated if I'm wrong about PW3 and PW4. I attached a small log as well.

edit: some googling showed I can check if it's the cylinder not firing by using my timing light. I was so used to always putting it on the first plug I didn't think about that. I'll have to try that in the morning before I head off to work. Also, damnit that was a shitty thread name. "PW3,PW4 = 0 normal?" might have been better. Sorry ya'll.

WigglingWaffles

You ought to wire up the IAT, its not difficult. You could even do like i did and toss it in the MAF box until you get the car set up and running proper.
as for the main problem, theres a test mode within tunerstudio where you can test individual plugs or injectors, this could point you in the right direction.

Is your car+megasquirt wired for sequential or batch injection? Do your engine settings reflect that?

The Empty Guy

Ordered a IAT (I got my PNP from ebay for a bit cheaper).

I checked the sparks they seems fine. Sounds like the video below, so it might be a timing error. I'll have to get a video so I can analyze it the marks better.

re: injections - PNP + stock injectors, so using the base map is hopefully right.

WigglingWaffles

Have you tried changing your sequential settings for batch injection? That would be my most solid guess. Run test mode and make sure your injectors are functioning properly (for stock setup, 1/3 and 4/2 are paired by wire), then make sure settings reflect how the car is set up. Verify base timing and calibrations as well.
Are you running the tune that came on the ms or did you load your own base tune from somewhere like trubokitty?
ps im sorry if im not much help, im still new to ms/ts, but i had a similar problem on my initial idle tuning

The Empty Guy

Alright, so checked the timing on the stock ECU, 12 degrees.
When it's on the MSPNP2 the timing is all over the place.

I'll have to run the injector test thing, I'll read up on it in the manual. The one video I saw had it outside of the engine? I redid the calibrations earlier as well and the issue persisted. Yeah I'm using the base map that ends in a, they list two base maps but don't really tell you the difference between the two / why there are two. Sequential injection is set to batch fire, "untimed injection". Though the sequential/semi-sequential sounds better?

Hey some help is better than no help and the more I struggle, the more I learn!

TJaruzel

Make sure your map sensor is calibrated. Its probably a MPX4250. It will sound like it is cammed if running pig rich, and if your map sensor is reading higher than what the actual amount of air going into the engine is, then you end up with way to much fuel.

dc2849

Seems like you need to read a little more. A couple things, your AFR table is crazy, fix that. Spark table is kinda whacky too. It looks like your Req. fuel may be off. Not sure if you modified that from the base map. You're tune is for batch injection, isn't your MS set up to run sequential (genuinely asking, i run a different ecu, so im not positive about yours). what is your car set up?

The Empty Guy

At work now so brief answers:
AFR/spark table: these are from the base map. Also from my understanding AFR table doesn't do **** since I don't have "incorporate AFR table". I'll take a look at the spark table at home.
Req fuel: I think I lowered it form the base map because I used the calculator and set the engine size and injector size. I think the base map uses a higher value for the injectors because they "can" go higher than what they're rated for. I don't see this as an issue that would cause the timing to jump around though.
Injection: I haven't touched this setting of the base map but I might go ahead and try. Not sure what the consequence is of ******* that up though. Coming from the Nitro RC world, we had to worry about flooding the engine when the parameters caused it to be too rich.
Setup: Pretty damn stock 1991 Canadian NA, AEM AFR gauge (calibrated), other than that stock + maintenance (still need to replace those pesky shocks, pretty sure one is 'broken' - makes a weird sound when it hits things).

I'll double check the map sensor when I get home tonight, checking it against weather channels and calibrate if necessary. I should probably double check all sensors since it's possible that the vendor sent a different PNP, might see if there were any stickers to indicate. Since I don't think the sensor calibrations come in the basemap. I did calibrate the few that DIYPNP said to calibrate but it didn't mention the MAF.

The Empty Guy

Here is a video of the issue. Timing is stable on stock ECU. Fucked up the video of the stock ECU, but it's about 13 degree, so 3 degrees advanced. In this run, I had adjusted the tune for that. The kPA reading was accurate.

pakmx5

iTrader: (2)

Did you use the trigger wizard in tunerstudio, lock your timing, and sync up base timing? Dont forget to un-lock your timing after. This is the first step in multiple MS set up guides.

The Empty Guy

In the video it's locked to 10 degrees in Tuner Studio. 3 degrees retarded since it was at ~13 degrees when I checked it on the stock ECU.

pakmx5

iTrader: (2)

Sorry, but from my understanding, you adjust the trigger wizard so that commanded timing equals actual timing. If its fixed at 10*, you adjust the trigger wizard so that actual timing (with the light) is 10*, this is how you know they are synced up. Your base timing with the stock ecu is irrelevant in adjusting the trigger wizard.

https://www.diyautotune.com/support/...r/base-timing/

You should be able to rev the engine and watch the timing remain at 10*. If it moves significantly you adjust the latency. Also you can try #4 if #1 plug wire is hard to read. I believe 4 gave me more consistent readings due to the waste spark.

Matt Cramer

What happens if you use output test mode? Are you able to make both spark outputs spark and get all four injectors to click?

The Empty Guy

Using this map I can get the car to idle and check the timing. The AFR is still .69 Lambda, when I lower the fuel (VE table) or increase the idle PWM (was thinking this would give it more air) doesn't seem to have an affect. I find it strange though that I halfved the VE table to get the car to idle (plus a boost in the idle PWM). Attached is MSQ and MSL of the idle that I do have ~784-819rpm.

Coil A: 1 and 4
Coil B: 2 and 3

also sorry for the shitty title on this thread, forgot to remember that I don't know much.

WigglingWaffles

If youre using an all stock, non-cali setup, make sure batch fire is on. I had a VERY similar issue, except i had to double my req_fuel from the basemap and i was trying to run on semi sequential.

TJaruzel

If you are just idling in that log... you should not have a constant map reading of 98-99kpa... I idle around 31kpa... That's why I say your map sensor is not calibrated. If you just have power on (car not running), and look at tuner studio what is the map reading?

The Empty Guy

Got it working! Firstly want to thank you all for your help esp since the solution was something stupid...

So the reason it only dropped about a 1 or 2 kPA when being turned on was because the rubber grommet feeding the hose into the cabin from the engine bay was cut too small. I widened up that hose and got the following data log that seems like where things are supposed to be. Going to go ahead and delete my old MSQ and start from the base map again as well since I think I adjusted quite a few things and don't know what is valid anymore (I know I could use the compare MPQ but doesn't seem worth it).

edit: also looking at the graphs, the MAP sensor doesn't seem to have "spikes" anymore. I thought that this was just due to digital signal, but that must have been due to the pinching. So there is a tip for anyone else trying to diagnose an issue like this.

Once again, really big thank you. Stupid reason / error, I know. If we ever meet, remind me that I owe you a beer or two :P

pakmx5

iTrader: (2)

Good to hear man! Enjoy your turkey day now and tune later!