na6 pwm ISCV stuck after warmed up
I'm running an mspnp2 on a 1990. During warm up or the first 10-30 mins after the car starts up, the pwm isc valve functions normally. Once I get it warmed up and drive it around, maybe 180degrees coolant temp, my iscv refuses to adjust, it gets stuck open, leaving my rpms idling at 1200 when its set to 850. Even when using the pwm iscv testing on tunerstudio, it refuses to react to any change. it doesn't seem to directly correlate with coolant temps since sometimes if I restart the car I can get it to work again but stops after 20 mins of driving again. I even replaced the iscv and attempted to check the resistance when this happens but didn't do nutin. Has anyone heard of this problem or knows how it could be fixed?
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Originally Posted by Chance Nguyen
(Post 1548612)
I'm running an mspnp2 on a 1990. During warm up or the first 10-30 mins after the car starts up, the pwm idle valve functions normally. Once I get it warmed up and drive it around, maybe 180degrees coolant temp, my idle valve refuses to adjust, it gets stuck open, leaving my rpms idling at 1200 when its set to 850. Even when using the pwm idle valve testing on tunerstudio, it refuses to react to any change. it doesn't seem to directly correlate with coolant temps since sometimes if I restart the car I can get it to work again but stops after 20 mins of driving again. I even replaced the idle valve and attempted to check the resistance when this happens but didn't do nutin. Has anyone heard of this problem or knows how it could be fixed?
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2 Attachment(s)
Here is me tune. I'm experimenting with decel burble so dont mind those 15 kpa rows in the ignition and ve table(unless it somehow messes with my pwm idle valve.) The problem happens on the base map too.
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With a stand alone you don't need the idle valve. The ISCV is more adequate. Cut out a block off gasket for the IV.
Originally Posted by Chance Nguyen
(Post 1548612)
I'm running an mspnp2 on a 1990. During warm up or the first 10-30 mins after the car starts up, the pwm idle valve functions normally. Once I get it warmed up and drive it around, maybe 180degrees coolant temp, my idle valve refuses to adjust, it gets stuck open, leaving my rpms idling at 1200 when its set to 850. Even when using the pwm idle valve testing on tunerstudio, it refuses to react to any change. it doesn't seem to directly correlate with coolant temps since sometimes if I restart the car I can get it to work again but stops after 20 mins of driving again. I even replaced the idle valve and attempted to check the resistance when this happens but didn't do nutin. Has anyone heard of this problem or knows how it could be fixed?
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Originally Posted by LeoNA
(Post 1548688)
With a stand alone you don't need the idle valve. The ISCV is more adequate. Cut out a block off gasket for the IV.
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Have you pulled the valve off and cleaned it out?
it may just be as simple as it having some crap in there causing it to slightly jam. |
Originally Posted by hks_kansei
(Post 1548724)
Have you pulled the valve off and cleaned it out?
it may just be as simple as it having some crap in there causing it to slightly jam. |
I cant remember if they have any greased/oiled parts inside, since I haven't had one apart before.
I would assume though that it's at least got a film of thin oil there to lower friction of moving parts. But bear in mind that carb cleaner will have taken off any oil/grease, so can actually increase the chance of sticking if you dont re-oil etc. But yeah, pulsing it and confirming that it moves freely is a good idea. |
Originally Posted by hks_kansei
(Post 1548736)
I cant remember if they have any greased/oiled parts inside, since I haven't had one apart before.
I would assume though that it's at least got a film of thin oil there to lower friction of moving parts. But bear in mind that carb cleaner will have taken off any oil/grease, so can actually increase the chance of sticking if you dont re-oil etc. But yeah, pulsing it and confirming that it moves freely is a good idea. |
You'll need to check the OEM manual and see if it lists a spec.
Or if it needs to be oiled at all. As I said, i've not had one apart, but normally stuff like that has some kind of lubrication. If I had to suggest anything, it would be something thin and with low stiction, that also doesn't dry out and thicken. On things like SU carbs where you need the piston to freely slide up and down you usually just use a smear of light engine oil, or sewing machine oil, Or even ATF. If it needs anything, it wont be much, just a few drops really to slick up the moving parts. |
Why is your idle frequency set at 92hz? Most run 383hz. Also your MAT air density is fairly radical. I run 100% at 70 and down to 97% at 200.
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Originally Posted by LeoNA
(Post 1548854)
Why is your idle frequency set at 92hz? Most run 383hz. Also your MAT air density is fairly radical. I run 100% at 70 and down to 97% at 200.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9644ab5e66.jpg is this close to what you're explaining? More linear? Edit: I did some reading. I should set it to 100 straight across, tune, THEN adjust the mat density correction. |
Originally Posted by Chance Nguyen
(Post 1548860)
I'm assuming you changed your mat air density from basemap? I don't think I changed it from basemap. I'll try adjusting that. Also. Ive been told it runs around 300-400 hz but I keep getting this weird click and jumpy rpms. 92hz is the only one I've been able to get it to move fully though it's range without clicking.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9644ab5e66.jpg is this close to what you're explaining? More linear? |
Sorry about the tardy response. I had to decrease the correction because of heat soak of the IAT.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...eea2a74fe.jpeg |
Originally Posted by LeoNA
(Post 1548931)
Sorry about the tardy response. I had to decrease the correction because of heat soak of the IAT.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...eea2a74fe.jpeg |
If you are having clicking issues and etc when on the correct higher frequency you likely have no flyback diode in the circuit.
I had this for a long time and was wondering why my ISCV range was so low and irratic. Put a flyback diode in. (diode in parallel with ISCV circuit but in backwards so it shorts the flyback voltage out) This should resolve most of your issues. |
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