Need help, freshly built DIYPNP crank but no fire (edit : Working now!)
 

Car want to start but no fire. Charge the battery overnight and same thing in the morning.

Don't really know what to look for to be honest, maybe some expert could shime in.

BTW using stock IAT and injectors for now till it start at least...

Car was working really good with OE ECU and Link piggyback.

your CLT and MAT are off, was the car running prior to this log?


it's not pulling enough RPMs to fire over, I'm betting your msq is setup for 300rpm? youre barely making 170rpms.


the last crank, were you manipulating the throttle?


can you take a screenshot of a composite log during maybe 10-20 seconds of cranking.

You should post your .msq and some details about your car. 34ms fuel pw at cranking seems excessive.

Sorry for the lack of information but I had to leave for hospital with my pregnant wife. Everything's good on this side.

Okay now back on topic. Here's my .msq and some details :

Car is a 2000(track car only) PS but no AC, Begi turbo manifold (some AVO and Begi pipes), GT2560 @ 7psi, stock engine, stock injectors for now (460CC waiting), using stock IAT (GM unit waiting as well), innovate MTX-L. Do you need more details ?

Car wasn't running prior to the log, it was the first try of getting the car start with the DIYPNP.

I put the TPS to 100% to cut the injectors on the last crank because the smell of gas was intense.

I can try to take such a log (composite log) while cranking.

BTW I follow the procedures from http://www.diyautotune.com/diypnp/ap...0-18bp-mt.html

and from Brain post over miataforumz.

did you calibrate the TPS, MAT, CLT, and AFR? cuase TPS is all over the place in the log on the last crank, so it never hit fuelcut.

but yeah it's too rich gotta figure out why it's injecting 34ms pw during cranking.

Have you checked all fuel and spark outputs in test mode to make sure that everything is functional?

Do you have the sequential fuel mod kit installed?

Also your battery is very weak. 10V dipping to 7.x when cranking. That's not good.

TPS is okay from TS gauge cluster (dit it yesterday) did both thermistor value with DIY data from their bottom page, and chose Innovate LC1 default as I read that was the one for the MTX-L and it comes with preset values.

I smell it, it way too rich but again I'm using what I found from DIY as basemap.

Here's a CSV while cranking.

Test mode is something I didn't try. From TS or DIYPNP ? I'll search for it.

Sequential module is installed.

Yeah I know, I hooked up another battery for my composite log.

One thing regarding CLT, I used those from DIY


For the CLT, use the following table with a bias resistor setting of 2490 ohms:

Temperature F / C Resistance In Ohms
14 / -10 9000
68 / 20 2500
176 / 80 320

And found this one from Brain (http://www.miataforumz.com/showthrea...=4523#post4523)

EDIT 5.0L one so I should be okay.

Well nothing in Q1 to Q4 and no empty bags showing those transistors either... that's a problem or not ....

Any of you guys can give me the part number ? Or is it BIP373 from DIY site ?

those are unused and unprovided.

As saw a thread done by Ben for his turbo 99 (almost same tubo setup as mine) and he does install those 4.

http://www.mx5atlanta.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4308

and your point is?

i saw a thread were a monkey put his ass on the glass and smeared ---- all over it, should I as well?

Sorry, I didn't mention that to piss you off or something. Maybe 99-00 we're different that's it.

I only want to get the car running and looking for solutions.

I appreciate your help, thank you for your time ! Let's get this thing up and running.

Last log for today, can't fire with 200-220 RPM. Battery is weak, even the second one.

Both will charge overnight and we'll see tomorrow.

Did you run test mode yet and check the fuel pump, injectors, and coils like I asked?

Also why is noise filtering turned on in your tune?

Yes Ben I found a problem this morning, old Link ECU connection was interfering with ignition.Had to redo some wiring in the car.

Car starts now. I did a log but end it quickly because my AFR was really high. Wondering if it's normal or not.

I will put noise filtering off, don't know why it's on.

Finally, it runs great !

Thank you Brain and Ben for the help. I learned a lot during the process.

Time to get a timing light and sync the CAS. I used the screw to adjust idle RPM but can't go any lower. Is that a problem from your experience ?

depends what the idle valve is being driven at through the MS...touching the screw is a bad idea when it's the MS that controls the idle. those settings MUST be tweak and fine tuned for your car.

its going to sit at the same value for 6 seconds before the PID code will even start to play with the idle speed according to your msq.


your logs shows it sitting at the max PWM% range setup in the parameters, so something was keeping it from kicking into closed loop.

Brain can i do the idle speed adjustment procedure ? Put a jumper between terminal TEN and ground or fixed the timing from Tunerstudio just like syncing the CAS ?

Found that to set the idle valve correctly: http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=46823

Got VE analyze live running for few times. Wondering if I should set cell change resistance easy or normal to begin with or play with the max cell % or value change.

Logs are too big to upload :facepalm: