Need timing table for 20 psi and 1.6
 

99.99

doesnt matter -- retard it to 5° -- it's gonna bend the rods.

Allofit and more!

Because it's a 1.6 that nobody cares about anymore, pressure doesn't mean anything, power means everything, and you should probably tune your car.

If you want a magic bullet that might work without any effort on your part, try a Powercard.

Hey at least someone does around here. :P

But really, you didn't end up with a stronger motor with the 323GTX stuff. Just one that will respond worse on the way to bending rods. Same "danger point" as you had with Miata internals.

Find out how many power you're making, then evaluate from there.

boost is everything. nothing else matters.
doesn't matter what car. doesn't matter what engine. doesn't matter what turbo.
got a twin turbski v8? got a 1 cyl moped?

JUST RUN 20PSI BRO. aint nobody got time fo any details.

You should probably figure out if you need to lower boost. Then make decisions from there.

Fix creep and/or find out how much power you're making. I wouldn't put an 8psi actuator in unless you want to run 8psi.

its going to suck to drive and constantly hit a fuel cut.

there's only mixed reviews here coming from one Ford Escort shop...

Here's a law we live by here: Miata rods are weak bananas past 250rwtq.

with your CR and rods you can probably get away with a lot more. But stock, no way. and everyone here will agree.

Start with a miata basemap, and advance it until you hear knock with your detcan and then tell us what it can take...

Boost pressure is a worthless measure. It is a measure of backpressure in the system. It is possible to switch turbos, run 10 more psi, and make less power. LBS of air passing through the engine is the actual measure of power. If you double the air, you can double the fuel to match, and then make roughly double the power. If the engine or turbo can't pass as much air as you are trying to put through it, you end up compressing the air more and more thereby increasing the boost pressure (or backpressure).



Timing bends rods even at lower boost levels. Cylinder pressure at particular crank angles is a result of timing. Some crank angles are more forgiving for a given amount of cylinder pressure than others. But generally, about 250wtq will be the limit for favorably timed engines with any rods that came from Mazda.

if youre running MS, it will cut fuel if it *thinks* youre going to hit that boost level -- it looks at the trend and cuts fuel before the limit. either way, it's still unpleasant when you hit one -- I always liked to keep a boost cut 3-4psi above my boost level.

Somewhat off-topic but 3-4psi seems like a lot? In going from 8psi to 10psi I went from 220whp/200ftlbs to 250whp/220ftlbs. It would seem that a boost spike to 14psi would be nearing engine-grenade territory? Fuel cut is unpleasant, but less unpleasant than noodle rods...

It all depends on the situation. If 14 psi is rod bending torque, then put your boost cut at 12. If there's no danger in 3-4 psi above target boost, then why not put it that high, to ensure you don't hit it in boost fluctuations (due to altitude or whatever).

There's other ways to keep cyl pressures down besides boost cut ;)

Generally no pop or noise. A full cut means no combustion. It would feel the same as if your car just turned off. It's also not like a rev limiter where the car will just stop pulling, the first time you will hit it you will think something broke because it's a hard cut.

retard timing above your boost level too.

you should only ever hit it if something was ever majorly wrong--like the boost source on your wastegate fell off--and like it would kick in so quickly, there's very low chance of any damage.

take my setup for example: i was running about 14psi at peak torque, but my turbo tapered off past 6k, so I actually increased boost to 16psi by redline.

if I set my boost cut to 16psi, it would always hit as I neared redline (remember the code is predictive -- especially on quick ramp ups as boost is building).

Even if I set it to 18psi and my turbo wildly spooled up to 18psi -- the boost cut would kick in so quickly (probably around the 15-16psi zone and we are talking split seconds) I highly doubt any damage were to be done... It's a failsafe, so treat it like such.


I set hard stops of timing and fuel in my tunes too.

example, I ran 215kPa. so i had a timing row of 220kPa just above it, then another of 255kPa.

Since MS interpolates, I'd keep the 220 row, just above, very close to my 16° timing. If I made the row just above 215, 255, then there's a change my final timing wouldn't actually be what I demanded in the table.

But the 255 row would drop down a bunch, so the MS would reduce timing significantly as the boost would ever increase over 215. I'd do something similar in the fuel table, so there'd be like 10-20% more fuel up top above where I normally ran as a way to basically reduce power/torque and keep the motor safe in an "oh shit" moment.

just go full retard like OP

Daily reminder that we still don't know anything about your turbo or how much power you might be making.