Needed: base settings for NB idle using MS-I
I decided to change from having the stock ECU control my car's idle to letting Megasquirt control it. This decision was made after discussions with Matt Cramer, Joe Perez, Paul, Abe, etc. .... I like to do my homework. :)
This is for an '04 MSM. I have MS-1 (not 2) with board 3.57. The good news: 3.57 already has the necessary parts for idle control, lucky me, no mod packs needed. Matt explained to me - and Sam dummied down for me - that hardware-wise all I have to do is follow Pin 30 into my Boomslang, cut that wire, and connect it to ground on the IAC valve. Sounds easy enough. Joe said he's got the base idle settings for an NA on MS-1 and an NB on MS-2, but not an NB on MS-1. Can someone please help me with that? LOL, my parents are happy to let me use their garage, but I don't like getting stuck there at the end of the day. ::laugh: |
You're probably not going to get too much help, theres only a few select people thatare using MSI with an NB. I am also currently running MSI on my NB, but its wired parallel, like most other NB users. The stock ECU handles the idle.
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Originally Posted by Marc D
(Post 447864)
I am also currently running MSI on my NB, but its wired parallel, like most other NB users. The stock ECU handles the idle.
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You might want to take a look into upgrading to MSII, its a better CPU all around
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I know. AbeFM tried hard to sell me on that. :) But right now I'm unemployed and can't spend money on this stuff.
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Well if it helps, try raising the idle. My car idles about 950 because of that fluctuating idle problem you're describing. I do experience the idle "searching" for its sweet spot, but it always misses when I first start the car from a cold or hot start. After driving for a good 2-3 minutes, the idle problem mysteriously fixes itself and settles at a somewhat steady idle at 900-1000. It still some what fluctuates, but its not noticeable from the outside. Only if you're staring at the tachometer will you see it ever-so-slightly trying to find the right idle spot.
This is of course, if you still want to try to stick with the stock ECU controlling the idle valve. If not, there arent many options for MSI to control our idle valves, since our valve runs at a higher frequency than allowed by the stock MSI computer ( I think, MSII can only go to a max of 244Hz without duty cycle resolution loss). I don't know the maximum frequency setting MSI can output, but I would think it cant output anymore than an MSII chip can (or the software won't allow it). In other words, you may still have a really shitty idle after you switch. Might want to check with the guys at MSextra.com |
No, I'm talking about WILD fluctuation from 600 - 1600, very fast, over and over and over. Sometimes it stalls, other times I'll sit in traffic and it just keeps increasing little by little until it's at 1500, 1600, 1700, etc. .... that's downright scary. My gripe is not that idle isn't rock solid ..... it's that idle is virtually non-existent when the car gets warm. This is all despite having a new-ish IAC valve and despite wrapping the stock temp sensor in all kinds of heat shielding. Everyone I talked to (Matt C., Joe, etc.) basically concluded, "Fuck it, let MS have a try at your idle." If you have some fresh idea then I'm all ears, but turning the idle up a little isn't going to make any difference.
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well that sucks. I didn't think your idle was fluctuating THAT bad. Maybe you have some other problem somewhere else (i.e. vacuum leak)?
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The car runs great when I step on the gas. What kind of vacuum leak would only affect idle? (That's not sarcasm. I'd really like to know!)
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Have you set your MAT correction?
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Originally Posted by Zaphod
(Post 448089)
Have you set your MAT correction?
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