New to this, help please!
 

Ok, this is driving me crazy!! I finally have everything hooked up and ready. IAT installed, AEM UEGO 30-0300 connected, but it simple will not idle. Couple of things:

1) Everytime I verify the thermistor calibration, it is back on coolant temp. I've changed this multiple times and written to the controller, but it reverts back.

2) I followed advice from a fellow member and connected my WB using CAN connectivity. I really can't be sure if it is connected fully and transmitting to the MS3PRO PNP.

3) Pulse width is everywhere. Car cannot achieve a smooth idle.

Any advice?

Did you play around with your IAC? You could attempt to see if the idle smooths out with IAC set off and tune it from there.

Post a log and your tune.

Any help appreciated. Car is still naturally aspirated. Only change was the DW200 fuel pump; I haven't changed the injectors as I was waiting o get the car up and running with the new MS3 Pro PNP first.

Things completed from stock:
1) DW 200 fuel pump
2) IAT sensor installed
3) AEM 30-0300 AFR gauge (wired to Can H and Can L on MS3) - Gauge/MS3 do not match exactly (gauge to dashboard on Tunerstudio). Sensor is currently sitting in the original O2 location. When car actually runs, gauge generally between 10.4~11.5; but car idles like it has a cam installed!

Other than this, car completely stock.

I tried to go into TS and complete the timing comparison, but car simply will not run steady/long enough. I can say that I did verify timing before MS install and it was correct.

Not sure how to get a log file as of yet; still learning. Attached is my current tune.

Went to closed loop on algorithm for idle control and it is idling! What is difference between open, closed loop?

You can go pretty far down the rabbit hole on that one, happy to link some good reading material if you want, but this is the basic idea:

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...58b39140ec.png

If you open the thermistor cal menu, it'll always open on coolant temp. That's normal, and as long as you wrote the correct values for your air or coolant temp sensors, it'll save them.

Your open loop idle map has really low values when you're warm, that could be a factor for your RPM going wild.

As for your pulse width, that's the final output for how long your injector opens, and is the result of a calculation from your fuel table, warmup enrichment, after start enrichment, air temp compensation, etc. So, in simple terms, if your PW is wrong, your tune needs work.

To take a log, press CTRL-L, then enter. It'll save the log in your project folder under "datalogs" as a date/time stamp. Press CTRL-K when finished.

IF in the future you make a thread with a question, always attach the most current tune, and a log of the issue happening. So if you're having an issue at wide open throttle, and you post a log of it idling, you're doing it wrong.

You guys are great. Thank you for all the help; and for not giving me a hard time for being ignorant of this process. Old dogs can learn new tricks though!

As far as my current tune/datalog file, would you guys care to look over them and let me know if I'm going in the right direction?

I was able to get the car running and verify timing (adjusted to -1.0), and it seems much better. I do believe I wired my WB to the options connector incorrectly though as I was thinking the orientation
of the connector to the instructions was reversed (thought view was front of connector/not rear), so I have to move them.

Looks ok in the log for an idle. I personally don't like that it's idling so low, both in RPM and idle duty cycle. I would put the idle valve in test mode, 0%, and adjust the bypass until it idles at ~850-975rpm. Then do a sweep of the idle valve to find what values it actually starts making a difference, and what value it stops. Probably in the 20-80 range or smaller. Set those as your min/max, then target 900-950rpm. Then you can start using initial value table, idle advance, and a few other settings to really stabilize your idle.