newly squirted
 

yup,

i built an MS and harness per scott's instructions (though some conflicting info in his diagrams were found) back in January, but had not yet been able to find time to get it going. Yesterday I hired the services of paul to help with the installation, find/repair some trouble spots, and tuning.

BOOOYAAAH! the sonofabitch started! We got some tuning time in (some tuning time is still needed). i can certainly say that the MS really has a higher engine controlling quality over the stock ecu. it transitions perfectly from vacuum to boost and idles tremendously better. two thumbs up!

Now i just need to learn me some megatune.....

all i can say is, if there is an F1 option hit it to read about it, or go to the help section in MegaTune.

What were the issues you found with the write up? I'm on the edge of springing for a DIYAutoTune purchase of the kit and attempt to build it myself, but my car is a '96 1.8L.

Well, the premade by DIY DB37 cable does not have the same pinouts as his diagram (to be fair to scott....it is possible that it was a diy mistake.....i just don't know). basically the injector circuits in the harness were backwards (thick green & thick blue)....so we just flipped the pins on the yellow connector side to correct it.

See, my problem is, if I build one of these things I have no one to look over it and catch a little mistake like that. My luck I'll hook it up, crank the engine and it'll catch on fire. (yes, I'm kidding, sorta)

Its really nothing to be affraid of. Just do it. Its easy if you just follow the directions CLOSELY.

weird. i based my junk off the original pin-out DIY had provided with their prebuilt 18" pigtail harness:

http://www.diyautotune.com/images/pr...ess_pinout.gif

hmmmm....i dunno scott. that chart correctly matches your diagram. so DIY either made a mistake, or they have changed their cable.

Booch had the same problem but he caught it while building it. Injector wires were backwards from diy

yup, same injector wires were backwards.

Project84 - as for checking your work......buy a jimstim. it allows you to test each part of the build as you go along. that way you know it works before you try and test it on your car.

weird. that image is pulled directly off their product data for the 18" db37 pigtail. what i've always used.

we both bought our setups around the same time too....probably within 2 weeks of each other.

i must have checked the wiring on the pigtail 6 times before i went ahead and wired up the harness adapter. maybe the new guy at DIY who builds the pigtails is colorblind.

Thanks for reminding me - the new harnesses have been changed and there are a couple of minor color changes including the IAC wires no longer being all the same colors. I'll get a new pinout up sometime soon.

I do like the new white/blue and white/green wires....hating the 6 individual grounds :P

:bowdown: That is a huge improvement.

Would you mind posting the new color code / pinout diagram? I'm going to be remotely helping a guy who bought your complete pigtail.

awesome...i finally contributed something useful to this forum! <--only took 408 posts

The six grounds are for sensor returns. Here's the complete diagram of the new color coding:

Pin - wire - function
2 - IGN shield - tach input ground / shield
GND - 6 black wires - ground
20 - orange - IAT
21 - yellow - CLT
22 - blue - TPS Sig
23 - pink - O2
24 - IGN core - tach input signal
25 - blue/white - IAC1A
26 - gray - VREF
27 - white / blue - IAC1B
28 - red - 12V
29 - white / green - IAC2A
30 - green - Fast Idle
31 - green / white - IAC2B
32/33 - green - INJ1
34/35 - blue - INJ2
36 - brown - spark out
37 - purple - fuel pump

Are they all narrow-gauge and connected to a single pin, or are some of them heavy gauge and bridged across two pins as with the injector lines?

IOW, which ones should I tell people to use as the system grounds?

They're all narrow gauge on one pin. Just use one as a sensor ground and the other five as system grounds; there's no difference between them.