base timing
09-25-2007, 09:49 AM
#3
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Base timing serves only one purpose when running a standalone-- to syncronize the ECU with the crank position. You don't do any 'trickery' by changing base timing to advance/retard your ignition curve like you might do with your stock ECU. You only do that with you stock ECU because you can't program it, so by advancing/retarding your base timing you essentially shift the ENTIRE map up or down, it's a bandaid at best. If you want more or less ignition timing with your standalone, just tune it in 
.
Use 10, 15, 20, whatever you want when you set base timing with a standalone. It makes no difference at all as long as whatever you command with the ECU matches what you read with the timing light then they are in sync and you're ready to tune.
. Use 10, 15, 20, whatever you want when you set base timing with a standalone. It makes no difference at all as long as whatever you command with the ECU matches what you read with the timing light then they are in sync and you're ready to tune.
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Jerry a.k.a. 'FoundSoul'
DIYAutoTune.com
'91 Miata BEGi S3 GT2560 w/ MSPNP - 14.1psi - 253whp, 232wtq
'95 Miata n/a
A few other cars....
Jerry a.k.a. 'FoundSoul'
DIYAutoTune.com
'91 Miata BEGi S3 GT2560 w/ MSPNP - 14.1psi - 253whp, 232wtq
'95 Miata n/a
A few other cars....
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09-25-2007, 09:56 AM
#5
Base timing serves only one purpose when running a standalone-- to syncronize the ECU with the crank position. You don't do any 'trickery' by changing base timing to advance/retard your ignition curve like you might do with your stock ECU. You only do that with you stock ECU because you can't program it, so by advancing/retarding your base timing you essentially shift the ENTIRE map up or down, it's a bandaid at best. If you want more or less ignition timing with your standalone, just tune it in .
Use 10, 15, 20, whatever you want when you set base timing with a standalone. It makes no difference at all as long as whatever you command with the ECU matches what you read with the timing light then they are in sync and you're ready to tune.
. Use 10, 15, 20, whatever you want when you set base timing with a standalone. It makes no difference at all as long as whatever you command with the ECU matches what you read with the timing light then they are in sync and you're ready to tune.
that was what my gut was telling me. :-)
think the spark maps on the PNP msq are on the agressive side for boosted driving, and i should back them off a bit? or just take it slow and listen/check my plugs for signs of det frequently?
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09-25-2007, 10:01 AM
#6
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I tried to er them on the safe side, but it depends on your setup to be quite honest-- I've tuned boosted Miatas that needed more timing than that, and I tuned at least one that would have grenaded itself with that map and I had to pull some timing out and dial it in.
The only way to tune timing properly is on a dyno, period. A load bearing dyno at that, not a simple inertia dyno. Or you can play the guessing game, many have played, occasionally someone does OK.
The only way to tune timing properly is on a dyno, period. A load bearing dyno at that, not a simple inertia dyno. Or you can play the guessing game, many have played, occasionally someone does OK
.
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Jerry a.k.a. 'FoundSoul'
DIYAutoTune.com
'91 Miata BEGi S3 GT2560 w/ MSPNP - 14.1psi - 253whp, 232wtq
'95 Miata n/a
A few other cars....
Jerry a.k.a. 'FoundSoul'
DIYAutoTune.com
'91 Miata BEGi S3 GT2560 w/ MSPNP - 14.1psi - 253whp, 232wtq
'95 Miata n/a
A few other cars....
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