Non-DIY PnP on my 2000
 

Very similar to Reverant's build, although based on a regular MS2, not a DIYPNP.
all circuits on board for:
- fan output in proto
- vics output in proto
- alternator control in proto
- table switching in proto
- launch control in proto
- tach output in D15
- Jean's 4 channel board for sequential fuel (seperate board in upper slot)
- Jean's pwm multiplier board in what used to be the the injector output circuit
- low battery light in what used to be the injector output circuit
- CKP and CMP inputs in what used to be the VR circuit
- no DB37 (I could have used 2 vertical mounted DB37 like this, but I didn't bother)
- no LEDs (they have no function anyway because they are the spark outputs)

To use full sequential, all you need is 4 identical injector outputs. I could have duplicated the standard injector circuit, but that takes up so much space that I found it too unpractical. The benefit of Jean's 4 channel board is that it takes up very little real estate, plus the stock injector circuit can be removed. The only transistors left are U5 on the far left and the EBC transistor in Q16 on the far right (not installed yet). The TIP120 goes on the endplate.
With the near empty heatsink, there's enough room to put the miata connector inside the case, bolted to the top lid. Jean's board fits nicely next to it, in the top slot of the case.
I'm also using Jean's PWM converter board, but I built his circuit inside the original injector output instead of using his seperate circuit board.

I have a set of cops waiting to be installed but I don't think I'll be using sequential spark. Finding 2 spare outputs isn't the problem as I could give up EBC (use manual boost controller) and fan (use 1.6 termoswitch instead), but I don't see the benefits of seq ignition.

Since I used so little parts of the kit, I only ordered the PCB and got the components locally. I mistakenly ordered the EAS400 (from Mouser, super fast 2 day shipment from the US to Belgium!) instead of the EAF300, but this turned out to be a good thing actually. The EAS400 has 12 slots instead of the 6 slots on the EAF300. So, I just cut of 6 slots to reduce the height and used the cut off part as a heatsink. It slides nicely into a slot for extra cooling, as if it was made for it :). It's almost a shame that there's so little transistors on it.
The 2 halfs of the case still grab into each other (it took some careful cutting of the case).
Also, my case has non-flanged endplates with no cutouts. Again a good thing because I don't use the DB37 and the LEDs. I bent the endplates to the new size of the case and drilled a hole for the map sensor. Haven't decided yet what to do with the serial. Use the DB9 or install a 3.5mm headphone jack. Might even install a serial -> usb converter inside the case.

http://img695.imageshack.us/img695/5651/insidecase.jpg
http://img709.imageshack.us/img709/2268/dscf4940.jpg
http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/9458/dscf4948.jpg

http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/2773/dscf4953.jpg
http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/2032/dscf4956q.jpg

Not to be a dick, but I hate your guts, like real bad. I just put my MS up for sale today, and then I get home from work and read this. This is pretty much what I originally was shooting for. If you lived in Pennsylvania, I'd shake your hand. Do you have a wiring schematic or pre MS adventure photos you could send me? You will have a PM pending...

Tips:

1) Don't use a 3.5mm jack, they tend not to mate well. Use a DB9
2) Absolutely DO NOT use a usb->serial converter inside the case. Use an external one. You never know when a) it may go bad on you b) the drivers for that thing may start acting up on your current (or your newer, whenever that may be) laptop, so it will be nice if you can just switch to another type of converter. (Ask me how I know).

Jim

thx for the tips Jim. You're right, safest bet is to use the DB9.

Todd, you have PM.