Noob, whits end, Help
 

Hi all, Every time I ask a question on google about miata and mega squirt I end up here. So Ive joined in hopes to get some help. I foolishly put my ms3pnp with no real plan. I used to mess around in access tuner with my evo, but won't lie, the base tune was solid and I would work with a well known tuner to look over my home work. Im in over my head especially with my idle setting, I think my AFR's are safe and my Timing isn't to out of it. But Im lost with the rest.

Attached is my Tune.

My car.

Daily driven street car that will see some track day fun.
2000 Miata
Ms3pnp
innovate psb-1 wideband/boost
Jackson Racing M45 hot side supercahrger 130 crank pulley, 67mm nose pulley = 4.8 psi
Long tube headers
borla exhaust
ddm airbox
TDR intercooler
stock injectors
stock fuel pump

Will dyn0 tune in the near future:
awaiting DW200 fuel pump, rx8 injectors, 150mm crank pulley=7psi

attached is my tune. Don't destroy me too much. Ive been watching Evans performance video's with my ADD I will go down the wrong rabbit holes. And yes if some one can remote tune me I will definitely consider it.

Well I keep reading a keep learning. I obviously need to go to the MAT Correction menu and mess around with it. Like some other have experienced when sitting it hot traffic on a hot day is not the time to VE analyze you’re idle table. Between the oscillation of the lean to rich state of my idle on a 30 degree day it just got worse and worse to the point the car was un-drivable. Had to go in and reset values in my idle table and ve table from my mornings values, ran quite well from that point on. Will mess around in the morning.

Wow, these are significantly more features than my PNP2, I would sure like a chance to play with one of these.

Idle tuning is more something you have to actively play with while its happening. All I can offer right now is that the idle zone is very sensitive to large differences between nearby cells on the map, which can send it into a fluctuation death spiral pretty quickly. Also eliminate as many variables as you can while tuning fuel in the idle area (it helps starting with idle advance off, ego off, AE off etc.).

Turn idle VE off, get your idle cells tuned well, otherwise you'll switch back/forth and it'll cause issues. Your idle advance correction is practically not doing anything, try closer to +/- 10 degrees. Turn on CL idle, use initial values in CLT, set all the temps/RPMs to what idle valve duty cycles you're seeing at those temps/RPMs.

You're also targeting 990rpm (I prefer 950, but not the point), but you have no 990 or even 1000rpm column, it's all either 900 or 1200, so you're always interpolating between the two. You can use EGO to keep your idle at 13.8 (way too rich), if you see anything over 100% correction (IE, 104%), then multiply your idle cells by 1.04 until you only see 96-99% values during normal operation. Tune when hot, then adjust WUE when its cooler.

thank you, this all makes sense. Will adjust and report back.

Let me clarify that you'll want an idle column for pretty much every table. AFR, fuel, ignition, initial value, etc. You don't have to do this step, but IMO makes tuning idle easier.

Also, you should be able to target around 14.5-14.7, and with the changes I mentioned above, you should be able to. However I have found with supercharges, you need a richer idle target, but I'd at least try for 14.

Also also, 10 years ago stock fuel pumps may have been ok for low boost setups, but I'm finding less and less tolerate that. I'd recommend upgrading ASAP.