Placing order for MS. What sensors?
 

Well, I am ready to make the MS jump. I want to build the sucker myself because I like that kind of stuff and it's cheaper. I will be placing an order with DIYautotune tomorrow for everything I need. Just need to verify my shopping list

Unassembled MS1 3.0
USB adapter thing
GM IAT sensor with pigtail
lead bending tool
2' wiring bundle

Is that all I need? Are people still running the stock CLT sensor with easytherm or is my best bet just going with the GM for both IAT and CLT?

I am getting an LC-1 as well, but I can get one of those at work, so I just need to make sure I am not forgetting anything for my DIY order. Thanks.

thats all i ordered for mine. Lead bending tool is a lifesaver, although you cant use it for like 15 of the super small resistors.

Thanks. What do you think about the temp sensor. I seem to read mixed reviews of the easy therm deal. I want to keep it simple, but I do need it to be reliable. It's my daily driver.

also, do i need an open element or closed element sensor?

I don't believe that temp sensor choice is going to make or break reliability. Poor soldering and wiring is going to cause you problems first. Either one works, I tapped the thermo housing and installed the GM sensor there. When first running MS, I swapped back and forth with the stock ECU, so I wanted to leave the stock stuff alone.

you want open element

don't you need a stim as well?

yeah, the stim of course. I forgot to list that above, but it's on my mental list for sure. So, the stock clt sensor is ok with easytherm?

depends who you ask. i say yeah. its within 2-3F at 50F or so and at full operating temp 160F thermostat, it reads +or-10F from 160. so i'd say its plenty accurate.

All righty then. I placed my order with DIYautotune. I'm pretty geeked. I've been wanting to do this for a long time. We will see if I feel the same way half way through the soldering process.:vash: I'm a pretty decent solderer so it should be ok, and I'll either be a very decent dolderer or I'll never solder again after I'm done. Thanks for the help everyone.

I just need to get my 550 rx7 injectors and pick up an lc1 from work.

Two more questions for everyone if you dont mind.

1) I know the wideband is crucial for tuning, but do you really need it after you get it dialed in? Is it something you guys use on a fairly regular basis? I would certainly like to always monitor that, but I;m not buying a guage for it so I really wont be able to see anything without my laptop in the car on a tuning session. Reason I ask is because I have access to a wideband at work that I could use for a day or so to try to get everything dialed in and not technically have to buy one. I gotta stretch my budget. But I do want to buy one if I will need it fairly regularly. Mainly curious how often you guys use yours after you get your tuning where you want it.

2) Anyone have any experience with the megaview thing? It's kind of pricey, but definately pretty neat to be able to monitor all engine parameters and even change settings at any time. Just curious if anyone has tried it. I wouldnt be able to do that now, but down the road perhaps. I wont have my laptop in the car at all times or anything.

Thanks again.

I use mine a lot. One of the drawbacks of using MAP to sense load is that anytime something is changed that affects airflow through the motor, the tune will change. A MAF based system can adjust for changes since it directly measures the amount (mass) of air entering the system. A MAP based system calculates the amount of air.

It's not like changing an airfilter is going to make the car undriveable, but when I put on a new exhaust system I know I will have to go back and remap things. It's a big purchase, but if it makes you feel better, I paid $800 for a used WB back in 2002.

Thanks for the input. I'll probably just go ahead and get one and be done with it. Just curious as to how useful it really is after the initial tuning process. But, knowing me I will always be messing around with something on the car and changing crap around.

1) Running with a wideband O2 sensor will allow you to run the car in open loop the whole time which is more accurate than running closed loop at higher MAP values.

2) Have you considered a DIY in-car pc? I have priced one to build up and they're actually not that expensive.

I have considered the in car PC option. Thats so me its rediculous. I just dont have the budget for it at this point, but I may have to work something out. I am just going to go ahead and get the LC-1 and be done with it. I'll figure out something as far as the PC or megaview or something like that for monitoring. I would like to be able to see all the parameters in guage format without having to look at my laptop in the passenger seat.

Aussie, haven't you got closed and open loop the wrong way around there?

open loop = ignoring the sensors output.
closed loop = taking in the output and altering based on that.

Or am I miss-understanding what you're on about? (likely tbo ;))

I like to concentrate on driving when im driving and tuning when i'm tuning. that's why stuff like megaview/tablet pc/AFR gauges don't make sense to me.

2nd buying your own LC1 though.

Excellent Point. I like to just drive and not worry about stuff. I really havent had any guages in my cars before other than factory. Not being able to monitor vitals does worry me though because it certainly makes it hard to tell if something is going wrong. But then again, things go wrong in a hurry with forced induction, so constantly having readouts may not prove as helpful as one would think. I'll keep it simple for now and look into added more crap later when I get bored. I am always looking for a new pain in the butt, I mean project.

hank get in on our group guy!!

Yeah, I probably got it around the wrong way. The whole day has been like that really..... Thank goodness for coffee!!

Man, Crap on that. I wish I had known. I didnt see your thread. I already ordered today and being the excellent customer service company that they are it shipped 2 hours after I ordered it. Sorry about that guys. I always like to save money too. Bummer.

I know exactly how you feel :) been a long week so far!

I ordered my rx7 550 injectors on rx7club.com from japan2LA. I know there are lots of places that do it, but where does everyone recommend I send them to have them cleaned, flowed, etc? Cheap is of the utmost importance, but I want it done right.

www.witchhunter.com or http://www.cruzinperformance.com/

Excellent. Thanks. $60 sucks, but it's necessary from what I hear.

My order form DIYautotune should be arriving today. I'll probably pull a late night and start the assembly process, so I'm sure I'll be on here with questions as I run into problems. It will be cool learning how megasquirt works because apparently we have gotten some questions at work about it and no one has any experience with it yet, so maybe I will be able to help out some others as I learn this stuff.

Thanks for the help.

Are 550's the best choice for my application. Most likely running a t3 super 60 on a 1.6l? Some of the guys at work seemed to think I was nuts for going with anything bigger than 440's because its difficult to idle them but they have never used megasquirt, so it may be different than with other ecu options.

have you made one? I've been considering this one and using a stereo w/ flip up monitor with VGA connection as my main monitor.... make a thread about this....

you can calculate the required injector size dependant on predicted power output and engine size, that's probably the best way. tbo you don't want to go too big as the MegaSquirt with the mx5 ignition mods* can't control low impedance injectors properly so you'll struggle to get a decent idle. i.e. get te smallest you can get away with, IMO.

(* there is a board mod avialable to take low imp injectors)

http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/mturbo.htm#other

Scroll down to the injector reccomendations. 550's will take you over 300 hp, how realistic for you is that? My goal is 225, so I went with the 440's. When I go to a 1.8, I may try staged injection with 440's and the stock injectors.

I finished building my stim and megasquirt. I did manage to screw up one of the little voltage regulator things that mounts to the heatshield and of course radioshack doesnt have it. I guess I will have to try to order a replacement for it. Sucks. Puts me behind schedule a bit. I still have to do my board mods, but its built anyway.

I think I will go with the 550's. They are high impedence rx7 injectors. If they suck, I'll sell them and get some 440's. I would like to get as close to 250hp as possible. I'll settle for less if I have to, but that would be my goal anyway.

hmm