PLEASE HELP!!!!
 

In process of going turbo on my 10AE. I got Reverant built MS3 and installed on my stock car. Car was running fine and I was getting comfortable with Tuner Studio.....
I removed the stock engine and installed a built VVT engine and now the car wont start.....

I am running a 36-2 toothed wheel on my ATI damper.
The Cam sensor is no longer on the front of the cam gear it is now reading from the back of the VVT cam.

I have no clue when it comes to tuning or MS settings. I stumbled around and found the setting for trigger wheel and when I changed the input to read 36-2 I get errors. "Can not run sequential without knowing engine phase"

So you're using an ms3 and wiring for a 99-00 and put in a vvt motor?

yes
I am not trying to run the VVT function yet

The 36-2 with the stock cam sensor wheel is not a supported configuration. Go back to the stock crank wheel or run batch injection/wasted spark without the cam wheel.

Which settings do I chang to what?

Error now reads
Cannot run knock control per cylinder unless cop or sequential capable crank cam triggers

Ignition settigns -> Knock sensor parameters -> Monitor per cylinder: Off

What is the highest resolution the MS3 can handle? Will a 12+1 wheel work or do I need to stay with the stock 4T configuration?

The MS3 can easily handle a 60-2 if you want to go as high as possible. The problem is when you want to combine a generic 60-2 (or any M-n type of wheel) with the Miata's weird cam sensor wheel.

I changed the knock parameters and got other errors about the MAP.....I don't want to chase my tail since I know nothing about MS/Tuner Studio/ECU tuning.....

What trigger wheel do I need that will work with my MS3 and still give me sequential firing and injection with the highest resolution? Do I need a stock trigger wheel or is there something else that is better?

What is everyone using for trigger wheels???

Use the stock one unless you want to mess with the cam wheel and with lots of settings which are difficult to understand.

The problem here is the cam.

You could run just the 36T wheel alone, with no cam sensor, in batch mode, which it sounds like is what you're set up for now.

Or you could modify the cam by grinding off 2 of the 3 teeth, and run that with a 36T wheel in full sequential.

But if you want to run the stock, oddly-spaced, 3 tooth cam, you'll need the stock, oddly-spaced, 4T crankwheel to go with it.

Thanks Joe! I don't mind grinding on the cam at all...lol. I assume I am to grind the two tabs that are together? Has this been done, I will need help with the settings.....
I have the ATI off and was about to (in like 15 minutes no shit) cut the tabs off the 36T wheel so it matched the stock 4T wheel.....Is there a benefit to using the 36T? Will it really give me more resolution and is it needed?

a 36T wheel and with cam sync will be better resolution than the 4-2 oddness. what that means for you, i dunno.

I plan on doing a 36T wheel also, probably this one from the protege. I haven't read that thread in a while, not sure if it has what you are looking for. But I'm guessing you're NOT the first one to want to use a 36T wheel with a VVT head, so...

I keep forgetting this is for a VVT head.

It won't work at all with the current MS3 code. If you want the VVT to work, stick with the stock 4T wheel.

Why is the VVT Head a consideration? If you can grind the two tabs off the cam gear for a 99 then why can't you grind then off the back of the cam?

Grinding the 2 teeth off is not the problem.

The problem is that the current MS3 VVT code will not work with anything other than the stock 4T wheel.

ok, that makes sense.....too bad I sold my spare VVTuner....lol
I guess I will cut the teeth off this 36T wheel.....How wrong is it that the teeth are not perfectly lines up? Each of the four teeth on the stock wheel line up with one on the ATI wheel but are not centered, therefore I assume the reading will be off a few degrees?

That may or may not work.

Also, what good would the VVTuner do? It wouldn't work with the 36-2 either.

And that is why I don't try to do what you do (I am not smart enough)......I was joking but honestly never thought of that. Jokes not so funny now....lol

OK, I guess I know what has to be done on my end.....
Thanks everyone who gave me input

So after grinding the 30 teeth of my trigger wheel I feel much better about this, they line up perfect! Maybe, just maybe.....my car will start today?

Grinding off 30 teeth would not have been the method I would have gone. You really should have gotten a stock 4 tooth timing wheel and used that. When you ground off the teeth did you leave the 4 in the same spots as the stock miata wheel? If not then I highly doubt it will work to. From what I understand of the VVT code in MS3X it is written for spark modes. For example the they tested it with the stock NB cam/crank sensors. If you want to goto a crank wheel with more teeth then a new spark mode would have to be written for VVT to work for it. I know Ben@DIYAutoTune has been working on getting composite logs of I think 36-1/2 crank wheel to send to James/Ken to get VVT working.

I would use the stock 4 tooth trigger wheel, which has to be on the correct direction. Then once Ben gets conformation that code has been written to support VVT on the miata with a higher tooth wheel upgrade then.

I left 4 teeth in the same relative position as the stock trigger wheel. I didn't want to wait for FM to make and send me a trigger wheel to use with the ATI. But alas, I am having other issues now.....fml

Does the ATI super damper not use the stock 4 tooth wheel?

FUCK YEAH!!!
 

Nope, special piece.....sucks like a starving ------!

On a brighter note..... it worked fine andSHE IS ALIVE!!!!