adbradley

iTrader: (2)

They are on ther way boys, get ready for an onslaut of dumb *** questions!!!

Oh and to make everyones life easier, i am building MagnaMX-5's kit for him, so you wont have to deal with his questions as well... u can thank me later!

jayc72

iTrader: (14)

WHAT?!?! He's going to abandone the stock ECU? What's next? An I/C????

adbradley

iTrader: (2)

hahahahhahahhaa you will never see an I/C on his car im afraid

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Got mine ordered today to. So we will have 2 people with dumbass questions coming next week. Now I just need to order my LC-1.

Nurburgring

Awesome, more FI MS Miatas.
I´ll be keeping an eye on this thread, good luck guys!

adbradley

iTrader: (2)

lc-1 180 shipped on e-bay

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

yeah im not done with stock ecu yet but MS was to sweet a deal to pass up. the MS software seems pretty nice im still wraping my brian around it. Yeah no IC for me thanks, hopefully i can use the 460's and a little more FP and make some big power with MS. Even before with some proper 300's i hope to make some nice power with 115 psi first we shall see.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Yah I know. I am going to wait tell when I get closer to the install in my car. I am shooting for March 9th to start the install in my car.

mazdasly75

I got 2 engines runs LC-1 with MS. I got a couple advices if you want it runnig for long time without issue.

The weak point with LC-1 is heat. Sometime when the exaust gets lot of heat, the LC-1 get an overheating code...that's really embarassing, cause the sensor is damaged and you have too replace it or this same code will appear again and again....

Here's my advice to prevent this. The instalation manual suggest to install heat shield, and you should take this advice seriously. I also wrap the portion of the exaust, let say 10 inches before and after the sensor.

The LC1 must run catalitic converter, and you should install it 6 inch before the cat.

If you do this, your LC1 will run perfectly

**off topic
I got a KLZE 2.5L in a 323, and at cruise the engine does 7L/100km... Stock with OEM ECU, it was 15L/100km. It's simply awsome.

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

we dont have to run a cat though only if we are cuaght is it a problem. thanks for the advice.

jayc72

iTrader: (14)

The LC-1 uses a Bocsh Wideband (I think VW and other OEMs us it too). Over heating will cause issue, but I doubt that it'll cause permanent damage unless subjected to extreme conditions for a long time.

How would wrapping the exhaust help? If anything it would keep the heat in the exhaust and subject the sensor to even higher temps.

If the Cat is after the WB02 sensor how would it help? If anything the Cat would impede exhaust flow and cause everything upstream to run hotter.

But other than that, spot on advice.

Jay

Efini~FC3S

iTrader: (4)

wow, i remember the first time I spoke english too...

Al Hounos

Since we're talking about MS and LC1, has anyone else put the resistor on the MS o2 input? Apparently MS fries LC1s occasionally if you don't do this. I did it on mine.

adbradley

iTrader: (2)

al, i hate to do this to ya buddy but your about to become my new best friend.. you have all the experiance i need.. and you are runnin boost control, something i want to do badly!

Al Hounos

Maybe you oughta go it alone, you know, really EARN your MS stripes.

Just kiddin, but tech support is $35/hr. I accept paypal.

Just get the thing running before you worry about boost at all, let alone EBC.

adbradley

iTrader: (2)

how much of the software do you actualy have to learn?? Like what parts do you adjust the most? What were the hardest parts to get right after you hooked it up for the first time?

Al Hounos

learn all of it. the tuning and megatune setup is the fun part, the physical setup/wiring and trouble shooting is the part that sucks. (especially if you did it before it was very popular on miatas.) getting the damn thing started and idling is hardest, but now that we have a nice selection of miata maps ready to go, MSing should be easy.

mazdasly75

The over heat wont comes from the exaust gas itself, but from the outside radiation of the exaust pipe. It's mentioned in the innovate manual.

Again, if the sensor reach 1200F, it will trip the value at the LC1 unit, then a code will be thrown, and MS wont read O2 voltage, it will stuck at 19:1. It happened twice to me, even if I would reset it, the code was coming back 10 mins later. I spoke with a technician at innovate and that's what he told me, "the sensor's probably damaged". If you read LC1 manual installation, it's mentioned. By wrapping this section of the exaust, it solved the issue for me.

This is how you get the voltage's sensor, the most accurate, that's all, ain't heat issue at all.

Thanks, I'll take it as a compliment. Nobody learned me to speak english, as long as you understand what I'm writing, I'm happy with that

There's not really hardest parts, as long as you understand what's going on with the engine. Soon as you get the first start, you build a safe fuel map(rich), then you ride while datalogging in megatune menu, under tuning bar. Then you export the datalog, you open megalogviewer, import back the .vex, set the ARF target to reach , and let megalogviewer compile the new VE. Accept the value, import back the .vex and you should be close to a perfect fuel map.

spark is more difficult, but there's good map shared by user of this forum, just copy/paste the value, retard the value by 5 to be safe and you should be ok. Later, when you'll learned correctly how megatune works, advance back the timing to get a bit more performance, but I highly recommand you do this on a dyno, with technician in place.

happy tuning

adbradley

iTrader: (2)

Thanx for the advice.. Since this is my daily driver, i whould be ok if it doesnt work the first time, becasue im doing the paralell install, so i can always switch back to my stock ecu

Al Hounos

just fyi, the spark map im using you shouldnt have to retard because it is from fm, conservative91 octane tune.