Running way hot after R7 delete
 

Are there any certain EasyTherm therm settings that need to be used when you remove R7 on the megasquirt? Before I was using the settings from the EasyTherm thread and the MS CLT was about 10-20 degrees off. (on the Cool Side) Now I have the problem where my megasquirt CLT seems to be spot on but the OEM sensor thinks things are cold. So now fans aren't coming on and as a result I had a nice little bit of coolant leakage today. (wonder if that's going to cause me some problems down the line now... hmmm)

Anyway, any clues?

removing the resistor shouldn't have done anything to effect when the fans switch on. Since the ECU controls the switch, and you removed a resistor that was actually altering the signal, all should be as it was now.

idle the car and wait for them to turn on, they should come on close to 210, something like that.

Yeah I know that it wouldn't affect the point at which fans would come on, what I'm wondering is if there's anything around removing that resistor or EasyTherm settings that would cause the ECU to see the temp as lower than it is and as a result not kick on the fans (so even though the MS is reading 214 or what have you, the ECU is seeing 180 or something where the fans wouldn't be switching on)

If that makes sense. I seem to recall AussieDriver or someone mentioning that when you piggy back on the CLT wire it affects both readings if you don't do the right things.

with the resistor installed it should have screwed up the stock ecu's readings...

The coolant leak may be the culprit. When I had a coolant leak in my Altima the fans turned on whenever they felt like it completely unrelated to actual engine temp.

Hmmm, yeah it used to do that. I wanna say I fixed that with EasyTherm - but I could be totally off there. Do you still have to futz with EasyTherm when you remove R7? I may just need to go back to stock MSnS-E if not since they're certainly futzed with.

When you perform the easytherm update did you combine the defaults of the GM AIT and RX7 CLT?

You should compile the created .s19 and .inc files into the MSNSE firmware and upload that to your megasquirt.

The reason you remove R7 is because you are sharing the sensor and because the ECU has its own bias resistor.

That's an interesting thought. Though I never had a problem that I know of until today. I turned off the car and I heard sizzling like water dropping on something. Then I noticed steam coming out of my hood. Popped the hood, and sure enough, there was coolant dripping on to the exhaust from where the coolant goes into the heater (???) over by where the speedometer input is.

I had smelled something about halfway through my tuning run, but I was driving by a construction site and I couldn't place the smell so I didn't think anything of it.

Over heating would cause a leak wouldn't it? Seemed to stop when it cooled down.

Easytherm affects ONLY the MS. The Stock ECU doesn't give a crap what MS settings are used. You have another problem, check you radiator cap and/or pressure test your cooling system.

Stops because the pressure drops in the system and doesnt force the fluid out. But if you dont maintain pressure in your coolant system it will cause erratic behavior with the fans.

In my case the end tanks on the rad started to leak so the rad wasnt filling completely, the coolant may have circulated poorly as fuck and didnt register properly with the CLT sensor. Thats what I imagined. As soon as I swapped the radiator all the problems dissapeared.

Good info there. Right now I'm running AussieDriver's

-4F 16200
86F 2450
176F 384

settings for the CLT. I guess it looks like I need to go back and reflash that sucker with the GM/RX7 combo.

oh yeah, dur, pressurized system. haha... Hmmm, well this gives me some stuff to start looking at. I have a brand new radiator so I hope it isn't that.

90% of the time it's the radiator cap.

Oh snap. Something I just noticed.

When you enter the defaults, keep in mind that the GM defaults are all in fahrenhiet and the mazda def are in centigrade so enter it correctly. You can also use Aussie drivers numbers, but be sure to select the appropriate scale.

I just realized I entered the values for the CLT in centigrade but didnt chose fahrenhiet in easytherm.

Yep you need to get your systems pressure issues sorted. Or you will get steam and steam is bad for cooling the motor.

Magna, you're up early today!

Happy Thanksgiving and get some sleep:)

Nah I work 3rd shift so after i got off on wensday morning i stayed up till about 4 pm and then slept till 4am i should be on normal time now. Thanks for the concern though.

I'd replace the heater hoses to start.

Good call. After reflashing and going out to make sure the fans were kicking in, I popped the hood and sure enough a nice stream of coolant shooting out of one of the heater hoses.

Wonderful.

At least I know where the leak is now!

=(

A bit off topic, but which CLT values are more accurate the Easytherm RX7 defaults or the ones Aussie Driver put up?

the rx7 defaults match the factory values. Aussie driver noticed they didn't match up (because r7 was installed) and changed the values to compensate for the difference in the bias resistance value with r7 in place.

OH, I see.

Very good to know. Guess I have to reflash again. Damnit.

Just to clarify, AussieDrivers numbers are for the stock Mazda CLT sensor?

-4F 16200
68F 2450
176F 320

it straight out of the factory manual.


The numbers he recommended are because they read toooooo low for him............................................... .................................................. .......................when keeping R7 installed.

I guess i need to finish my how-to.

CRAP!

I've got a big problem. Well might not be *so* big.. but seems kinda major.

Ran through the directions on MSEFI.com to update with easytherm.

Set my values, selected custom, left start address alone (it said to!), everything wrote without problem, restarted it all and now I have no serial communication with Megatune! Made dead sure I copied my new files to the Megatune directory anyway to rule out all possible problems. Opened easytherm back up and ran through it again, updated again without flaw.

I suspect the start address screwed up my firmware installed? The start address defaulted to F500. Stimulator is running like normal, also.

Running v2.2 MSnSE-029q2

Second problem! To open my case I had to remove all four screws from the DB37 endplate, but left the three FETs screwed down (Q2 and Q7) along with the PWM idle FET. Somehow I must've bumped it taking off the stimulator or something but the Q7 FET broke off! All three leads!!!! Hooked stim back up, everything still blinks except D2 (INJ2) so I assume Q7 is second injector bank firing? Should I replace the FET or just solder wire leads on and remount?

Crap.

The best way I have found to update firmware with easytherm generated .s19 firmware files is to create the file and let ET download the inc files to the appropriate directory for you. Then, using the MS2 downloader, flash the MS with the msnse_mod file that you created using easytherm.
The MS2 downloader is much more stable and works every time for me.

As for Q7, if there is enough sticking out of the FET to resolder then it is worth a try to solder new leads on to see if it works. You might have broken the piece internally, but who knows what damage is really done. Try it, if it works then good deal, if not get a new one. I'm sure DIYautotune will send you a FET USPS for a reasonable amount.

haha.

Man, you guys really do kick ass. I <3 miataturbo.net



Anyway, need a little bit of advice with MS2 downloader. Managed to totally wipe out my firmware (LOL!) trying to burn my easytherm values to the damn thing. 0wned once again by teh megasquizzle. Broke down and reflashed it with the copy of 029q2 I had and everything has been restored and running like normal (with exception of Q7 which I'm going to deal with later.)

So gimme a hint... how do I go about burning the easytherm information to the CPU using MS2 downloader without wiping out *EVERYTHING* to replace it with the easytherm file? :)


Gaaah!! BTW, I'm slamming my head on the table here cause I keep reading contradicting things!! Using the Easytherm with resistor value of 2409 entered, do I REMOVE the coolant temp resistor on the board or leave it alone??

The firmware is one huge file. You're not just modifying values on the MS you replacing the entire firmware. So no matter what you are replacing EVERYTHING. Just follow the ET instructions and make sure you modify the msnse 029v .s19 file. Then use MS2 downloader to reflash it.

Dont use MS2 downloader, that stupid thing never worked for me and just froze over and over. Use the INC files easy therm gives you, throw them into the "src" in the 029v firmware folder, hit compile, it will make a new msns-extra.s19 file, put that into the root of the folder and use download-firmware.bat. That was the only way it worked for me and took 5 min.

ms2 downloader works better than anything else.

Well theres the problem... I wasn't using the MSnSE firmware to write easytherm updates into.. lol.

Everything is updated and installed, my harness is wired into the relay board. Decided to replace the FET I damaged instead of messing with a fix then we'll see if it runs. :D

As I said, it froze like three times for me and I gave up on it. I found it a lot easier to recompile the firmware and use the bat file to download it.

Why are you running a relay board?

Well my MS kit I ordered back in like 2004 was for a different vehicle that I don't have anymore, and planned on mounting relay board under the hood and MS inside the truck. Using it on the miata because I had it and kinda made things a little easier and universal for me.

Bought another jumper harness from a junk yard, the piece that connects from the firewall to the PCM so I could weed out the stuff I don't need and make it a plug in, so I can swap out for the stock PCM when needed.

*shrug*

Makes sense. Just curious because no one here runs them.