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Old 11-14-2010, 05:14 AM   #21
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Thanx man. I've got a ways to go but its just tuning related now. Not too bad. Especially if I get input from others

I think I may have fucked up on my timing verification
Hopefully someone that's done it on a 99+ will chime in though. I CANNOT FOR THE LIFE OF ME FIND ANY WRITEUP ANYWHERE FOR A 99+ TIMING VERIFICATION
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Old 11-14-2010, 05:19 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
Thanx man. I've got a ways to go but its just tuning related now. Not too bad. Especially if I get input from others

I think I may have fucked up on my timing verification
Hopefully someone that's done it on a 99+ will chime in though. I CANNOT FOR THE LIFE OF ME FIND ANY WRITEUP ANYWHERE FOR A 99+ TIMING VERIFICATION
as much as im on here and watch threads pop up, i dont recall there being anything related verifing timing for the NBs posted up, most of the MS savy guys on here that post often all have NAs.

i dont know **** about tuning, thats what i got a local friend for thats done all the leg work
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Old 11-14-2010, 05:19 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
UPDATE

So today I went to our shop and did a timing test. PLEASE TELL ME IF THIS IS RIGHT: with the car warmed up I hooked up the timing gun to a spare battery and started "shooting" the wheel with the gun set to 10*. FROM WHAT I READ the mark I need to line up with the 10* mark on the plastic cover is the LEFT one. Right? Cause there are two notches on the wheel.
1) Start the car
2) Connect to MS
3) Go to Basic Setup -> More Ignition Settings
4) Set "Fixed Advance" to "Fixed Timing".
5) Set "Timing for Fixed Advanced" to 10 (should be 10 already)
6) Hit Burn (car may die, you will need to switch off the ignition and then on again). If it doesn't, do it anyway.
7) Verify timing is correct with a timing light gun. The LEFT mark should be at 10, the RIGHT mark should be at T. You can adjust these quickly and easily by going to Tools -> Trigger Wizard.
8) Once you are happy with the timing, hit Burn. The engine will die.
9) Without switching off the ignition, go to Basic Setup -> More Ignition Settings, and set "Fixed Advance" back to "Use Table". Hit Burn.
10) Switch ignition off and start the car - done!
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Old 11-14-2010, 05:23 AM   #24
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That is exactly what I did.

THANK YOU so much for clarifying man. I know its easy stuff for you guys but sometimes the easiest **** is the biggest holdup

Alright, now so then its back to tuning
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Old 11-14-2010, 08:40 AM   #25
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Can anyone report if they've had much offset at higher RPM?

18psi, keep VEAL to 50/50 and if your engine idles, set to Medium and drive carefully. The map will dialled in pretty well after an hour of taking it easy. Slowly build up into boosted regions and if it's adding in **** loads of fuel you should stop and manually add in the fuel to the boosted cells you've not yet hit and then let VEAL remove it while tuning.
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Old 11-17-2010, 11:01 AM   #26
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is it runnig yet? any updates.
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Old 11-17-2010, 12:52 PM   #27
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Its running. Fired right up last night, then died twice. Pretty sure I have to dial in a little bit more ASE Percentage. On the 3rd try it was fine and idled pretty darn good.

I have less than an hour of actual "tuning" time (most of which is calibrating and setting up trims and such) in the ecu altogether and the car is already starting and idling decently. Haven't had much time to really start tuning it, but I did get VE Analyzer live, so its just a matter of turning it on and going on a long drive to get a rough tune in. Then a bit of fine tuning and I'll be ready to jump onto a dyno to start massaging my spark map.



I LOVE THIS ECU so far
It really is great and so far no complaints at all.
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Old 11-20-2010, 01:51 PM   #28
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Starting to shape up my tune. It was way too lean just about everywhere. Guess with e85 I've got a thirsty little miata on my hands lol



right now trying to dial in warmup enrichments and idle as well as get the car to fire up after a single try instead of 2-3.

I have a HIGH idle after driving then letting off the throttle. Like I'll start car, it will idle fine and all that. then I go to drive it stop at a light, and for about 5-10 seconds my idle is 2,000. Then it goes back down and is fine again.

What could be causing this?

I've read a few tips in the other thread that I'll try today hopefully that helps.
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Old 11-20-2010, 01:56 PM   #29
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Go to Startup/Idle -> Closed-loop idle valve settings and reduce Dashpot adder to 1%.
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Old 11-20-2010, 02:22 PM   #30
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Yes that's what I need to adjust. (at work right now, so I'll do that in a couple hours and report back)

Also I noticed my "Idle curve" never goes lower than 1000rpm. I'm going to lower it to 850-900.

Also is 14 degrees a decent amount of timing to have at idle? The 2 cells are 14 and everything else around it is in the 17* range so if anything it doesn't dip and die.
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Old 11-20-2010, 02:34 PM   #31
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You must NOT lower your idle curve because when the A/C kicks in, the engine won't like it. The idle valve will open more to absorb the load, but the whole system works at one specific idle speed, NOT two seperate (ie 800 no A/C, 1000 with the A/C).

14 degrees is just fine. The blue 430hp Miata has 10 degrees, idles on 1000cc injectors and never stalls.
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Old 11-20-2010, 02:54 PM   #32
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I see. Ok wont mess with that then.
Any chance you have the spark map from said 430hp miata?
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Old 11-20-2010, 07:34 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reverant View Post
Go to Startup/Idle -> Closed-loop idle valve settings and reduce Dashpot adder to 1%.
This DEFINITELY helped, thanx

Whats weird though is now it randomly idles at 1200 every now and then. Its like it has a mind of its own: most of the time its around 900-1000 which is great and exactly what I want, but every once in a while, bam: 1200+ for no reason.

Should I increase my "I" in idle PID?


Also I think I'll lower timing at idle down to 12 and see how that works.
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Old 11-20-2010, 07:37 PM   #34
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Here is my most current map (attached).

As you can see, the autotune has added a TON of fuel to the map I had originally.

Is my REQ FUEL too low?

I look at everyone elses maps and they are just a tad over 100 in the boosted cells, while mine is that way at cruise just to maintain 13-14afr? (haven't tuned the boosted cells much yet, but I added a ton of fuel up there and may need to add even more so the autotune subtracts and doesn't add when car is already lean).

I've nearly doubled my fuel map values already.
Attached Files
File Type: msq 19 trial.msq (78.8 KB, 51 views)
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Old 11-20-2010, 07:47 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
This DEFINITELY helped, thanx

Whats weird though is now it randomly idles at 1200 every now and then. Its like it has a mind of its own: most of the time its around 900-1000 which is great and exactly what I want, but every once in a while, bam: 1200+ for no reason.

Should I increase my "I" in idle PID?


Also I think I'll lower timing at idle down to 12 and see how that works.
Yes, you can increase I. Start by setting it to 100, and leave it alone for a while. Don't be too hasty to judge. If it doesn't work, increase it some more. Watch for oscillations. If it oscillates, back up.
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Old 11-21-2010, 10:43 PM   #36
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Took it to the twisties today for a couple hours of fun and tuning.


OMFGGGG I LOVE IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I think its so much easier to set up than the adaptronic and the autotune feature is 100% better.


Going through a log there is a little leanness (12.1-12.3 afr) that needs my attention from 6200-7k but other than that its pretty darn decent for this little time invested into the road tune. Also got a little boost creep from 5300-6k but its not bad at all, goes up 2psi then drops back down after 6.


Again, this ecu is GREAT!! Thanx again to Reverant and Brain for making this available to us non DIY ECU folks, it is truly a GREAT service and I'd happily get it again if I had to pick ecu's again. Anyone trying to decide on an ECU for their NB, THIS IS THE ONE YOU WANT




There is a slight problem:
I don't think my fan is kicking in fast enough or soon enough or what, but when in traffic or at very low speed driving (under 40) the car runs pretty hot. Or at least to me its hot: around 205-209F.
Is this normal?
I don't think its too bad, but I'd like to lower the fan kick in temps unless these temps are ok.

The car has a reroute, new coolant, new thermostat/water pump/etc and running large turbo and e85 and didn't run hot at all with the adaptronic (though I had both fans come on within 5 degrees of each other).
I made sure the fan turns on and all that, and the a/c fan kicks in when you turn on A/C.

Also I think I have AIT sensor heat soak. After hot restarting the car runs VERY LEAN. Like 16.8-17.0+. after you get moving its absolutely fine.

Any way to make it not lean out that bad on hot restart?





So yeah, gotta figure those two little issues out.
Otherwise as I've already said 100 times: I LOVE THIS ECU

Last edited by 18psi; 11-21-2010 at 11:31 PM.
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Old 11-21-2010, 11:03 PM   #37
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Short log:

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Old 11-22-2010, 02:50 AM   #38
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I read somewhere the stock fans come on at 207. My car seems to sit at ~195F CLT cruising.

Look under the MAT correction table (under Extended) to deal with IAT heatsoak. My car does the same thing, haven't bother to fix it yet.

MS is awesome. I got my EBC mostly dialed in today and it was all smiles the whole way back.
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Old 11-22-2010, 04:42 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
I don't think my fan is kicking in fast enough or soon enough or what, but when in traffic or at very low speed driving (under 40) the car runs pretty hot. Or at least to me its hot: around 205-209F.
Is this normal?
That's the temp the OEM ECU kicks the fans on.

You could lower the fan activation threshold, but you'll just be running the fans more than required.

Too hot is more like 220F

Quote:
Also I think I have AIT sensor heat soak. After hot restarting the car runs VERY LEAN. Like 16.8-17.0+. after you get moving its absolutely fine.

Any way to make it not lean out that bad on hot restart?
Mess with the MAT corection table, and/or reduce the correction factor %age.
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Old 11-22-2010, 05:17 AM   #40
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Yup, his fans are setup to turn on at 97C (main) and 100C (A/C).

18psi, you can change these in Extended -> Output port settings. WLED is the main fan, ALED is the A/C fan.
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