Solder onto Boomslang Connector Pins
 

I've finished my boomslang, but had a hard time soldering onto the 48 pins of the connector. My solder seemed really sticky. Any recommendations on what type of solder to use next time? Mine didn't flow very well. Is flux needed? What diameter?

It was a piece of cake when I did it. I just pre tinned all the pins and wires first. I used regular old radio shack solder. I dont remember the gauge though.

I use the thinnest wire they have....the silver-resin stuff.

if you look here, you can see what sam means....

http://www.boostedmiata.com/MS/harness/harness003.jpg

all the tips of those wires are tinned (or soldered solid). I do the same on the ends of the contacts of the 48pin connector. Then you simply lay the wire over top of the contact, press the iron tip one the wire, and the two will melt together.

http://www.boostedmiata.com/MS/harness/harness007.jpg

I guess the question would be- what kind of solder did you use?

The best solder for general-purpose stuff like this, and the kind that I use for 99% of my work, is plain ole' 60/40 rosin-core. That's 60% tin, 40% lead, and a rosin flux built right in.

Problem is that it's getting harder to find. Thanks to our good friend the RoHS directive, a lot of solder nowadays is lead-free. Here in the US, lead-based solder still isn't prohibited, but it's getting harder to find as some manufacturers are discontinuing lead-based solder preemptively. The new stuff contains copper and silver, it has a much higher melting point, and it just doesn't seem to flow as smoothly. You can still buy lead-based solder, you just have to look for it. Radio Shack carries it as P/N 64-017 (0.5 oz, .032"), and 64-005 (2.5oz, .032"). Avoid the "clear flux" style and all the other gimmicky ones- you just want standard 60/40 rosin-core.

I do not generally find it necessary to use a seperate flux. Just make sure the part to be soldered is clean.

Some terminals have a plating on them that makes soldering difficult. In these situations, it helps to rough up the surface a bit with fine sandpaper or a dremel with an abrasive pad. Also, make sure to get the piece hot enough before ladeling on the solder. For soldering wires to heavy terminals, I'll pre-tin the stripped end of the wire and set it aside, then start heating up the terminal, first with just a small amount of solder to aid heat conduction off the tip, then with more solder once it starts to flow. Once the terminal is fully wetted, apply the wire and remove the iron.

Speaking of irons, a good one makes a difference. Cheap irons have cheap tips that tend to be conical in shape and oxidize rather rapidly. A good tip will have a flatted profile and be made from a material that does not oxidize. Weller, SunPro, and MetCal all make good irons- if possible, get one with a base that has a variable temperature control. Here's an example of a good iron: http://www.action-electronics.com/wewes51.htm Yes, it's $104, but it's the last iron you'll ever buy.

I'll tell you from experience....soldering with a $900 iron beats a $7 radio shack one :rofl:

I use a Solomon with temperature adjust, the best money I have ever spent. Been using the same one for at least 10 years now.

Yeah, I thought it would be uncouth of me to suggest that the OP buy a Metcal MX-500, which is the one I use here at the office. They're a paltry $500 or so (plus tips). The Weller I linked to is the new version of the one I have at home, which is about 15 years old and still running flawlessly. I do love the Metcal, though. You can change tips in two seconds, and it only takes about ten seconds from turn-on for the tip to reach operating temperature.

/discussion of my assortment of irons. :rofl:

Is the strength of the solder to pin bond enough to keep it from breaking? Seems likely if it's even slightly bent, the solder will pop off the pin. It hasn't happened yet and I'm probably over thinking it.

Impossible to say without knowing how good a job you did with it. If the solder flowed properly onto the pin, then you should be able to support the weight of the car with the joint.

http://www.boostedmiata.com/Lars/sol...t_pwns_joo.jpg

Thats the soldering iron I use at work. It is some highend Pace model. I will get an exact model number tommorow, but all I can say is it is amazing. I used a cheap 8$ radio shack soldering iron to build my first MS back in Feb 2007. Now after using a good soldering iron I cant go back. We have the wellers that Joe posted above at work and even those dont cut it with me any more.

All those 1337 joints you can see in my MS builds. I did those with a $7 yellow handled RS iron. I've got skillz to pay da billz though.

Don't use walmart solder, its like trying to solder with a turd. I think i use RS .030 rosin core lead free IIRC. I also use a 25W iron, it's not too hot or too cold and tips are readily available. No heat adjustment but w/e.

i am about to start building my ms. i know that the components can get ruined if the iron is too hot.
i have a 12w, 25w and 40w iron... the 25w should be the best one to use? wont damage components? (if i am careful?) these are also the none temp adjusting ones..

I've never damaged any components from too much heat with my 25w. The 12w will be slow, if you're worried about things happening to fast try it first. The 25w is very tame though.

We use 60 watt non-adjustable irons for our production work. If I were building it I would use the 45 watt iron but if you're worried about damaging something the 25 watt would be a safe choice. I wouldn't bother with a 15 watt.

I've built over 15 MS using a $7 Radio shack 25/45w iron. Talk about baddass....go through at least 2-3 tips per build....talk about shitty.

Which one has the best tip? Which one recovers more rapidly? That's the one to use.