stucky

iTrader: (1)

I'm so close I can taste it. My board is built, JimStim shows everything I can test works, and I have my tune based on the MSPNP tune for my car. I have a couple of questions though.

1) I can't find any settings in TS for the MS3X Tacho output (pin 26). Any necessary action here?

2)I was going to wait and tackle A/C stuff later, but since I can't install the MS until next week, I figured I'd get a head start. Here is how I have it wired:

MS3X
1j Blu/Wht -- A/C Relay Output ---- Nitrous 2 (Pin 25)
1l Blu/Wht -- Cooling Fan ---- Nitrous 1 (Pin 24)

MS3
2s Blu/Wht -- A/C Condensor Fan Relay ---- Inj G (Pin 1)

In TS (under A/C Idleup) I have Idleup Output = Nitrous 2 and Idleup Input = Nitrous In. I don't really know what to do with the A/C condenser fan relay (Inj G). I probably have this ---- all backwards so I'd appreciate some help straightening it out .


If anyone is crazy bored or interested I have attached the msq I intend to use for the first start. I'd appreciate any feedback or concerns. Thanks dudes.

stucky

iTrader: (1)

Also, if you do look at the msq you'll note I have it set up for narrow band. I have a LC-1, but I'd like to get the MS installed before tackling the WB. Any compelling reason to tackle the LC-1 at the same time as the MS?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

It's there. select Tachout.


And to be clear:


What you need is:

A/C Switch ground ---> MS INPUT
MS OUTPUT ---> A/C Compressor and relay

stucky

iTrader: (1)

Ah yes Brain. Tacho was right in front of me.

As for the A/C I posted the wrong pin in my original post. 1l the cooling fan was supposed to be 1q, the A/C switch. I copied the wrong cells from my Excel sheet.

I am clear on having 1q (A/C switch input) as the MS input. Makes sense, and I don't have to jump 1q and 1j. My confusion is with 1j (A/C Relay out) and 2S (A/C condenser fan relay). Sounds like they should be jumped and set to the MS output. I have read through the A/C FAQ and I guess my confusion was with the difference between using the MSX and the method listed in the FAQ.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Basically, a/c switch goes into the MS. When you activate the button, the MS says, "holy ----! Jigga must be hot in here." It then proceedes to bump up your idle speed based on your parameters. Then the MS is all like, "Here B, I got this ---- for you!" and activates the compressor & a/c fan.

When you jump the two pins, you're basically bypassing the MS function of bumping up the idle.

stucky

iTrader: (1)

Best A/C explanation ever... bringing back Jigga.

Your saying jumping 1q and 1j bypasses the MS function of bumping up the idle. To be clear I still need to jump 1j and 2s. This sinks both the A/C relay for the magnetic clutch and the condenser fan relay (when it is gettin hot in hur).

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Correct. 1Q will go into the MS for the A/C Idle Up Input.

1J and 2S (a/c fan & compressor relays) can be on the same a/c idle up output.


I can't remember if MS3 allows the option for a seperately controlled a/c fan...I don't have the option, but I've always just tied 1J and 2S together on the DIYPNPs.

stucky

iTrader: (1)

Naturally, I need the forum's help again. I have my MS3/MSX installed and the car idles! It was a great relief when it started right up, and quite satisfying. I know dick squat about tuning so I'm trying to read as much as I can. It is very annoying switching back to the OEM ECU whenever I actually have to drive the car. Anyway, on with the questions:

1) Why can I not hit my target AFR at idle? The car is warmed up and no enrichments should be taking effect. No IAT heat soak either. FYI this is the DIYPNP tune.



2) For tuning I am following these links:
MegaManual Tuning
MS Tuning Basics
MSExtra Idle Tuning

Do you have any recommendations as far as order of operations with tuning (really any tuning recommendations at all)? Do I start with idle, then move to fuel, then VE, then spark? I have no idea. I am planning on getting VE Analyzer Live considering I'm such a . I'd also love to meet up with anyone in SD who is willing to hold my hand through some basics. Beer would be on me obviously.


-Mike

QWKDTSN

Have you adjusted the cells in your VE table's idle region? Highlight a square around where you're idling and bring them down until you're idling at your target AFR. If you just opened and are running the DIYPNP basemap, it should get you up and running but the VE table is not going to be perfectly suited to your car by any means. You will have to manually adjust it or have VE Analyze adjust it.

I am also a n00b but I think I sorta have the basics down. I would recommend paying for the full versions of TunerStudioMS and MegaLogViewer. I think MLV used to be free but now the designer's started to lock features out in the lite version.

Simplest thing to do is tweak the cells in your idle region manually, make sure Accel Enrichment is turned off and Overrun Fuel Cut is turned off. Set a custom filter in VE Analyze Live for minimum RPM 1100 or so to make sure it doesn't change the idle cells you've set up manually. Then go drive around.

*edited to add content

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

you shouldn't be running EGO at idle, so why would it just magically hit your AFR targets if you didnt reduce teh fuel in your VE fuel table 1 where you are idling at?

stucky

iTrader: (1)

Ah now I understand. I didn't have a firm grasp on the VE table, so I didn't mess with it. I knew the equation, but was simply looking at my AFR table. I also didn't realize that the EGO control isn't active below a set RPM (for me 1300 rpm).

From the Megamanual: "You want to change the VE table entries while watching the engine MAP (in kPa) to try and lower the MAP as much as possible."

Thanks.