Need Turbo 1.8 Fuel/Spark Map Checked
#1
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Need Turbo 1.8 Fuel/Spark Map Checked
Alright so all I've done is taken Al Hounos's turbo .msq and modified it a bit for use with a 1.8 with stock injectors. If you guys could look over it I'd greatly appreciate it. I have a few questions though.
1. Are my dwell settings low enough, i was recommended these values but i've also seen them higher elsewhere.
2. What "Idle Control Values" should i use for my 1.8 idle solenoid. I was told that the values in this .msq for a 1.6 could easily damage the 1.8 unit but I'm not sure what to change them to.
3. I changed the recalculated the req fuel value using:
1800 cc (even though i'm bored .020 over.)
4 cylinders
240 cc (stock '99 1.8 injector rating)
12.0 for the AFR
I don't know if I'm supposed to put the AFR i want to see when under boost or the AFR i want to see under cruise but defaulted to better safe than sorry once again.
Thanks guys I've really no idea what I'm doing
Just guessing and reading alot all over the place.
1. Are my dwell settings low enough, i was recommended these values but i've also seen them higher elsewhere.
2. What "Idle Control Values" should i use for my 1.8 idle solenoid. I was told that the values in this .msq for a 1.6 could easily damage the 1.8 unit but I'm not sure what to change them to.
3. I changed the recalculated the req fuel value using:
1800 cc (even though i'm bored .020 over.)
4 cylinders
240 cc (stock '99 1.8 injector rating)
12.0 for the AFR
I don't know if I'm supposed to put the AFR i want to see when under boost or the AFR i want to see under cruise but defaulted to better safe than sorry once again.
Thanks guys I've really no idea what I'm doing
Just guessing and reading alot all over the place.
#2
The first few pages of your .msq seem fine.
- Your ASE settings seem a little high and your Warmup settings are huge compared with mine.
- Your idle settings seem to be ok although I'm seeing your slow idle temp as being higher than your fast idle temp (mine are 0 C for fast idle and 70C for slow idle).
- You should probably pay attention to the bit in red at the top of the Rev Limiter Type page and change your settings accordingly (unless you're not running a cat).
- I would advise you to turn off the AFR target tables in the Lambda AFR Settings page at least for a while until you can get the car running smoothly.
- Your Spark Settings page has the Trigger Angle set to 79. Mine is set to 73.
Those are the main points that I pick up from my quick look at your .msq.
- Your ASE settings seem a little high and your Warmup settings are huge compared with mine.
- Your idle settings seem to be ok although I'm seeing your slow idle temp as being higher than your fast idle temp (mine are 0 C for fast idle and 70C for slow idle).
- You should probably pay attention to the bit in red at the top of the Rev Limiter Type page and change your settings accordingly (unless you're not running a cat).
- I would advise you to turn off the AFR target tables in the Lambda AFR Settings page at least for a while until you can get the car running smoothly.
- Your Spark Settings page has the Trigger Angle set to 79. Mine is set to 73.
Those are the main points that I pick up from my quick look at your .msq.
#4
i got a bunch of warnings when i loaded the msq about celsius and farenheit. you'll need to set your ini's to expect farenheit or it will give you funny numbers.
my real idle settings are 10f and 140f. fast idle is just under 2k dropping to 900 when warm.
the trigger angle varies a little from car to car, just set it with a timing light.
i don't know anything bout the idle valve.
you're supposed to put stochiometric for the AFR, because you are running gasoline, it is 14.7.
my real idle settings are 10f and 140f. fast idle is just under 2k dropping to 900 when warm.
the trigger angle varies a little from car to car, just set it with a timing light.
i don't know anything bout the idle valve.
you're supposed to put stochiometric for the AFR, because you are running gasoline, it is 14.7.
#5
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I've never touched my car with a timing light since MS was installed. It was my understanding (from the guys at DIYautotune) that a setting of 73 in the trigger angle and -10 in the fixed angle meant that the ECU just used the base timing as it was on the car (i.e. on mine it was 15 deg btdc) and advanced from there.....
#6
you should definitely check that then. what timing map are you running?
http://www.msextra.com/manuals/MS_Ex...#trigangletune
http://www.msextra.com/manuals/MS_Ex...#trigangletune
#7
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you should definitely check that then. what timing map are you running?
http://www.msextra.com/manuals/MS_Ex...#trigangletune
http://www.msextra.com/manuals/MS_Ex...#trigangletune
EDIT: Seriously tho, I asked Jerry at DIYAutotune about this very thing ages ago and was told what I said before. my car pulls like a train, so I figure if it ain't broke?
#8
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Where should i tell megatune to use/read only farenheit. I went into configurator and turned celsius off, saved, and updated. Megatune still gives those 20 errors in the audit log though. Some where else in megatune that i'm missing this option?
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well I knew the advance prior to the install it was 15 deg and after megatune reported the advance as 15 deg, so I reckon I'm okay ;-) But yeah if the two had differed i would've done something about it/been more worried
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I'll make sure i match my CAS with what MS is reading when I get to that point.
Anyone else know where in megatune or configurator i set all my temperature units to Farenheit so i don't get these errors anymore?
Anyone else know where in megatune or configurator i set all my temperature units to Farenheit so i don't get these errors anymore?
#14
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Pretty sure they rent them out. If not, just buy it and return it if you don't want to spend the money on it.
When you hook up MS you will get a a timing reading in megatune and you need to make sure that megatune and the motor are reading the same thing. If megatune says 10* and your motor says 12 then you need to change the timing in the motor to make sure you have them synced appropriately.
Atleast that's my take on it.
When you hook up MS you will get a a timing reading in megatune and you need to make sure that megatune and the motor are reading the same thing. If megatune says 10* and your motor says 12 then you need to change the timing in the motor to make sure you have them synced appropriately.
Atleast that's my take on it.
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No, you are not OK, you are lucky. What the MS reports as the advance means squat unless you verify this is what is actually happening. The trigger angle will be close to being the same, but not identical for all cars. Considering a few degrees off in either direction leads to loss of power or detonation, it would be worth the two mintues it takes to hook up a timming light.
However, I fail to see how MT reporting a value that differes from the engine will give me ping. I've tuned the car there's no issues, power is good, there's no knock etc. If MT said I was running 15deg and actually it was running 17 it doesn't matter. As-long as there is enough fuel, the knock sensor is reading fine, the EGT's aren't too hot etc. etc.
It's just a number at the end of the day, all the other sensors make the number have a meaning.......
#16
Then you got lucky and it was right on.
It is just a number. The problem comes when you think the number is X and
it is actually X+2. Unless you have actually tuned the car on a dyno, you are making a best guess at the optimal advance. I'd hate for someone to read this thread and think it's cool to plug a trigger angle in, load the FM spark map, and go for a drive without verifying the actual advance given to the engine. 2* may not make a difference, but 10* could ruin your day.
However, I fail to see how MT reporting a value that differes from the engine will give me ping. I've tuned the car there's no issues, power is good, there's no knock etc. If MT said I was running 15deg and actually it was running 17 it doesn't matter. As-long as there is enough fuel, the knock sensor is reading fine, the EGT's aren't too hot etc. etc.
It's just a number at the end of the day, all the other sensors make the number have a meaning.......
It's just a number at the end of the day, all the other sensors make the number have a meaning.......
it is actually X+2. Unless you have actually tuned the car on a dyno, you are making a best guess at the optimal advance. I'd hate for someone to read this thread and think it's cool to plug a trigger angle in, load the FM spark map, and go for a drive without verifying the actual advance given to the engine. 2* may not make a difference, but 10* could ruin your day.
#17
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Then you got lucky and it was right on.
It is just a number. The problem comes when you think the number is X and
it is actually X+2. Unless you have actually tuned the car on a dyno, you are making a best guess at the optimal advance. I'd hate for someone to read this thread and think it's cool to plug a trigger angle in, load the FM spark map, and go for a drive without verifying the actual advance given to the engine. 2* may not make a difference, but 10* could ruin your day.
It is just a number. The problem comes when you think the number is X and
it is actually X+2. Unless you have actually tuned the car on a dyno, you are making a best guess at the optimal advance. I'd hate for someone to read this thread and think it's cool to plug a trigger angle in, load the FM spark map, and go for a drive without verifying the actual advance given to the engine. 2* may not make a difference, but 10* could ruin your day.
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