Trouble starting / Running like crap
 

I finished the COP wiring harness and stuck em in the car. Had to try forever getting it to start, I think that might be because the IAT settings are STILL way skewed... Its SNOWING right now and it shows 54 degrees IAT. Car struggled like hell to start, then started but ran like complete and total ass.. AFR showed 8:1 on wideband. Let the car sit with lc1 powered on and megasquirt still continued to show 8:1, closed megatune and fired up the LC1 logworks, it showed 19:1. Went into Megaconfig and changed the Lambda settings to Innovate PLX 0-5 volt 10-20:1 AFR, saved, went back into megatune and it shows identical readings to the LC1 log viewer.

Car won't start. Still shows its really rich on cranking, catches and acts like its trying to start.. but nothing. :confused:

*sigh*

Nothing?? Nobody??

You are taking into account that the wideband takes ~30 seconds to warm up right?

needs more fixing of the AIT resitance values....AIT is a big factor on fueling...

Sensors sensor sensors. Fix those first, then move onto other things.

Wanna get the car to start, pull the AIT and let it default to -40. I bet you it will start damn near instantly.

Shit.

I unplugged the MAF and IAT went to neg 40. Cranked and it didn't even catch, so theres no ignition. Pulled the 1 and 2 coils out, stuck a screwdriver in them close to a ground and cranked. No spark. Have +12 at all four coils inputs, cont to ground is good. I unplug the harness from the car and bring them inside because its 18 degrees outside right now (I'd give my left testicle for a GARAGE instead of the hole in my house thats called a garage..) and what do I find:

http://www.jugrnot.com/cops.jpg

I'm confused on what to do now, I modified all the pins like in Scotts writeup, but they won't stay secured in the connectors. :(

push it in hard with a precision screwdriver and proceed to epoxy, super glue, jb weld, etc,etc.

i didnt mod my pins (y8s came up with the novel idea), and simply siliconed the ends of them for peace of mind

then you didn't do exactly like his writeup said. or you inserted them upside down. they should and do grab. push them in till you here a click. they shouldn't pull back out

Pressed the pins in hard with the coils plugged in. Checked to make sure they were wired correctly for the trigger, they are. Have no resistance between the car side plug of my harness and each corresponding pin on the coils connectors. No spark. Came inside with the MS and hooked it up to Stim, shows injectors are firing (knew that much) and checked for frequency on both outputs for ignition. Both seem to check out okay. My test point for ignition output was at the LEDs, removed power from the unit and checked for cont between D19 and D17 between pins X11/X12 of DB37-25 and 27 both check out.

What should the resistance between the +12 and ground be on each coil? Double checked all of my ignition settings in megatune, all seem correct. No inverted spark, LED17 is Spark A LED19 is Spark B, trigger angle is still 65 which is how it ran with stock coils, 0 addition, time based cranking, 10 advance angle, hold ignition 1, fixed angle -10, 0 trim angle, dwell set for Dwell control, 4.0ms cranking and 2.6ms running, minimum discharge .5ms.. WTF is going on? :(

I test using my harness approx 27k ohms between the +12 and Ground on each coil, plugged in one at a time across the board. Also test between trigger and ground of each same way of 348 ohms.

And I just found cranking dwell should be 3.5 cranking and 2.5 running, I had 4 cranking and 2.6 running.. did I kill the ignitors again? :(

Nah, they should be ok considering some people are running like 4.6 ms running and 5.6 cranking dwell when using them on stock ecu.

Checked another measurement.. Resistance between the output of the coil and +12, and not getting any kind of reading at all.. I thought there was supposed to be some high reading between the two and that was how you tested it??

They get hot when they are being abused. No mistaking it. :-)

Might've found my problem. Scotts post on wiring shows this:

http://www.boostedmiata.com/FAQ/cops/cop_pins.jpg

I just found the 2004 Corolla wiring diagram for engine control which contradicts his wiring?

http://www.jugrnot.com/engine%20control-2.jpg

Scotts indicated 1 is ground and 4 is power, toyotas manual says 1 is power and 4 is ground... Would having those reversed fry the coils? If I switched them, think it'd fire?

:confused:

Theres no winning with this shit. Looks like I'm out 40$ for coils and will have to spend another god knows how much to get another set.

So am I reading toyotas diagram wrong, or is it just incorrectly labeled?? I'm getting really frustrated here and can't find anymore information other than that

Judging from your wires, it looked right to me, red is power and black is ground, right?

Check this:
http://abefm.smugmug.com/photos/242055166-XL.jpg

Looking at the left most coil:
white/black skinny wire is ground (can go right to the head)
green/red is signal (are you "inverted"? I use "normal", going low)*
Yellow is Tach Out. You won't hook this up
black/red is, counterintuitively, +12 switched

That's left to right, looking towards the coil from the connector end.

When I had the power backwards, it got hot and didn't fire (I couldn't believe the ground was the thinner line). When the polarity is wrong, it also gets hot. Touching the coils is the best way to tell if it's hooked up wrong.

This is totally fucked and I'm seriously pissed off right now.

They're all wired up just like Scotts diagram, red power, black ground, brown is the trigger. Spark is NOT set for inverted. Why the fuck was it running before and won't even fire ANY OF THE COILS NOW?!

Maybe because, for some reason, they're all burnt out.

can you revert to your stock coils to determine if the coils are burnt out for real or for some reason a setting is preventing spark?

FWIW, i didnt make any of the diagrams, i just copied and pasted into a thread without 15 pages of chit-chat.