Harv

iTrader: (4)

Way back when I installed the LC1 controller and wired it up to my gauge. Now I am trying to wire it into the MS3 that I just installed and I'm realizing that I never programmed the LC1 at all, just used the factory settings.

From what I'm re-reading about the controller this means analog output 1 (yellow) is just set to emulate a narrow band signal and analog output 2 is giving the actual wideband readings.

So, if I wire the thing up without changing anything I should be wiring/splicing the brown wire into the MS and that should also be the wire that is providing the readout for the gauge or is it yellow wire that provides the gauge readout? It seems as if the diagram they show in the instructions is pointing to the yellow analog going to the gauge and the brown analog being used for the ECU.

akbloom

iTrader: (2)

Why not just plug the LC-1 into your laptop so you can configure both outputs however you need? I have one wire going to a gauge and the other to my ECU. Color is kind of irrelevant once you set them up in the software.

I wouldn't share the signal wire with the gauge and the ECU, use the device like it was designed.

Harv

iTrader: (4)

Well, probably for the same reason I didn't do it in the first place, I have no computer with a serial port. I'll have to buy a serial to USB adapter.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

For the best possible resolution, you will want to set up your LC1's unused analog output for a full range wideband signal. I would not share an output between 2 different devices.

Harv

iTrader: (4)

Okay. I'll check the wiring and run yellow over to the computer after I reprogram it (waiting on the serial/usb adapter), but it seems as if the thing isn't really getting a proper reading off of what I've done since when I select "default LC1/LC2" it doesn't really give a reading other than 19, which it stays pegged at. If I select narrow band it gives a sync error.

I'll have to double check what is going on. The gauge of wire I used to wire the thing in is one size up from the wires coming off the controller (parts store didn't seem to have anything smaller), is that going to impact things?

Harv

iTrader: (4)

So, I reprogrammed the first analog input to match the second.

I don't get any sync error on the MS, but the gauge in TS stays pegged up at 19 AFR. Doesn't seem to move. The physical gauge reads very rich around 10 AFR and judging by the smell that seems about right.

I guess I need to go through the wiring again to make sure I have the thing wired up right (I realize I should have done this by now, but my buddy helped me solder the thing together since I have shaky hands and I'm waiting for him to come by to help again), but I'm just confused that it seems to make some sort of connection at all, IE the gauge is not disabled with a sync error.

This is all not moving the car at all, just startup and idle.

Harv

iTrader: (4)

Okay, I guess the gauge in TS is reading 7.5 (the needle is pegged around 19) so I'm assuming this means that there is nothing really getting to the MS from the wideband.

The in car gauge is reading fine and I checked the project properties, EGO control and the AFR calibration and everything seems to be set properly.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

Use a multimeter to check for voltage on the wideband's analog output wire.

Protip: You can rescale the analog output for constant voltage. I'll set it for 2.5V at .5 lambda / 2.5V at 1.5 lambda.

Harv

iTrader: (4)

Will do. Damned weather is now getting the way. High of 30 today.

Edit: Well, yeah, it seems like the damned wire going to the MS is not giving me any signal. Got the multimeter on it and no voltage at all. Will have to trace back and see what the hell is going on.